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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Gyms should grade also 6-8 m routes Login in to contribute
Gyms should grade also 6-8 m routes
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-12-11 00:00:00    
One big downside with climbing the 12 - 18 m long gym routes, slightly progressively harder, is that most of us get so pumped that we need to rest at least 15 min. In other words, you seldom climb more than 100 m during your normal session.

If you instead would divide your training on 6 - 8 m routes you would only need to rest a couple min in between and you could end up with double as much training. Further more, such training could be defined as power-endurance training which normally is the strength we are all looking for outdoors.

Surely, it is just up to you and me to stop midways up the route but it is not so easy to be the first to implement such training in the gym. In general, it is the hardest routes in the gym that gets the less traffic but possibly the 7c might just be 7a up to 7 meters etc.

From the kids and the beginners perspective, it is just very natural that before you start climbing the 12 m routes, you progress meter by meter.
OffLine dreamingof8a
  2018-12-12 13:14:00    
Why would you even go to the gym if you only want to climb 6-8m? Go bouldering! Gyms should be at least 20m high ....
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-12-12 15:29:41    
Could you respect that different climbers have different opinions? My kids, as an example, do not like climbing 20 meter routes at the same time they find it super scary, thanks God, to climb higher than 3-4 meters, while bouldering.
OffLine dreamingof8a
  2018-12-12 16:02:03    
I do respect it, of course. I just don't understand it. But you're right, there might be different reasons for different people.
OffLine Kraxler
  2018-12-15 21:57:17    
"One big downside with climbing the 12 - 18 m long gym routes, slightly progressively harder, is that most of us get so pumped that we need to rest at least 15 min. In other words, you seldom climb more than 100 m during your normal session. "

Maybe the routes you climb are too hard throughout your session ?
If the described happens to you it´s just your own fault due to wrong traning/climbing habits and a wrong understanding of how route training should look like.

"Most of us".....
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-12-15 22:04:05    
I have been a coach for 25 years and I see this problem frequently. I think this is also one reason why so many male 20-40 focus on bouldering. It is just so boring climbing long routes like 4-6 grades below your maximum in order to avoid being to pumped.
OffLine Kraxler
  2018-12-16 10:40:48    
Ok, you are right, to train power endurance, especially in the 30-60 sec range, its way better to use a bouldering wall.
But to get volume 2-4 grades below your max in order to do some local aerobic training or train your power endurance in the 1-3 min range its really nice to have a climbing gym with routes.

I read your statement like its only fun when you climb at your max level every time, which indeed takes some time to recover.
But do you boulder every time on your max ? Doing power endurance laps on a bouldering wall isnt fun either.

If you go bouldering because its boring to get pumped all the time then clearly your ego is the problem and not the height of the climbing gym. To climb a 6 move boulder at your max feels completely different to climb a route at your max. But you are just not able to maintain the same level you have in your 6 move problem. Do power endurance laps, train your aerobic power and you should be able to transport your boulder power a little bit better to the climbing wall.

When a 7c is only 7a in the first 7m why not choose a 7a route in the first place which you can climb maybe fast and due to short hold contact time you also get a right power endurace training.