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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Grade inconsistency can ruin the day Login in to contribute
Grade inconsistency can ruin the day
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-11-04 00:00:00    
Having climbed in Nafpoli, Kyparissi and Leonidio for a week with my family, we are as last year very impressed. These places are probably the best winter destination in Europe. At the same time, we have never seen so much grade inconsistency. We have climbed 6b+ that is harder than the 7a at the same climb and we have both climbed some of the hardest and easiest 6a, we have ever tried.

If you would like to warm up on a 6a or a 6b+ and they are in practice three grades harder, you can get super pumped which will ruin your day. It is not easy for the topo authors to check all the grades that are given but thankfully there are digital topos like the Vertical-Life (VL) one that can correct them.

To give grade comments on data bases like 8a or VL etc could possibly help your friends having a better climbing experience.
OffLine Travel Alternative
  2017-11-04 17:54:13    
don't prioritize the send over getting a proper warm up. Ideally grades are correct but if you are getting too pumped (maybe the grade is correct and you climbed poorly/missed beta... maybe) just take a rest and don't let it ruin your day.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-04 18:43:16    
Sure but to hang is not the spirit of climbing. I am not talking wrong beta I talk dead wrong grades.
OffLine Endre Verden
  2017-11-04 19:19:27    
If only there was a way of ticking the route/topo grade and also giving personal grades on 8a... ;)
OffLine Steve
  2017-11-04 21:51:21    
Word! Also, that spirit of climbing is funny: "The route is way too hard for a warm up, but I can't stop, I have to send it. Aborting means failing and failing is not acceptable." :-D
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2017-11-05 09:15:35    
Climbing is all about having fun. Whatever it takes!
OnLine Joakim Thommesen
  2017-11-06 09:23:02    
Climbing is punishment for all the bad things you did in your last life - and if you were really bad, all the routes will be sandbagged.
OffLine thi loft
  2017-11-07 13:23:20    
Maybe its because of the new Greece climbing guidebook? Did you check out the local one? Its way more accurate.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-07 14:13:40    
I have checked out also the local topo and it is the same problems there. In general, grades are a bit harder there.
OffLine george metaxas
  2017-11-08 14:21:34    
Can you become more specific because i m climbing in these areas for many years and it never seemed to me that there is such a big problem with grades as you describe,and when i m traveling abroad or in new sectors in greece many times i stummbled in routes and sectors that felt seriously hard for the grades proposed.....
At some point you should become accurate without generalizing everything especially when you mention other peoples efforts while advertising your own business!!
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-08 16:08:24    
It is strange because, many I talked to thought the same thing. We have been there two times and it was the same thing last year. I think it somehow relates to hard grading of the Germans and softer Kalymnos grading.
OffLine zapfenwolfi
  2017-11-13 17:22:41    
@ Joakim
really god theory - now I start to understand
(have been a really bad guy in my former live obviously :-)

The interesting thing is, that some areas seem to have a higher ethical standard, as there your previous live is been judged as even more worse.