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Gimme Kraft review and author message
OffLine 8a.nu
  2013-10-30 00:00:00    
The trainers of Alexander Megos, Patrick Matros and Ludwig "Dicki" Korb have together with Hannes Huch, written the new concept training book Gimme Kraft (Power) that also includes a DVD with a great Wolfgang Güllich interview. Here is a trailor video.

The book with 226 pages in both english and german presents basically some 80 different exercises out of which half are climbing related, using ten famous climbers who also give their tips. The focus is to get stronger in your body and in fact only a couple of exercises relate to maximum finger power training.

It is like the whole book want to grab and shake all the gym rats focusing on finger power and inspire them with some odd training we seldom have seen before in climbing. In the same new thinking concept, periodization is not even mentioned.

The book is very user friendly and you can more or less randomly open it anywhere and get very inspired. It is actually quite extreme and you just wonder which effect such such training would have had on all climbers saying they never do any complementary training. Personally, I have always said that finger training is most important but of course if you have pushed you to the limit there, there are many more ways to get stronger.

Here are an explenation from Patrick Matros for the new concept, which ends with this wise message.
"With athletes like Alexander we drive a middle course because periodization is good to prevent performance barriers at a high level but when you are traveling pretty much you have to be flexible.

Concerning training for climbing and bouldering for the average but still performance-orientated climber we think they should not think so much about perfect periodized training plans but should focus more on a training done in a healthy, motivated and not too complicated way and exactly that should be the message of our book!"

The message from Alexander and Megos himself sums up what he learnt from his trainer and their great message. "I never climbed at my limit until recently and that was maybe the reason why I could keep my high motivation and never dropped out.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2013-10-30 18:07:17    
"In the same new thinking concept, periodization is not even mentioned." This is not correct. I have just briefly read through a few pages, and periodisation is already recommended - on page 29, to be specific. I have to say that the quality of your postings seems to get only worse, Jens. Wouldn't it be a good idea to fact check your own postings first, instead of deleting corrections from members?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2013-10-30 18:19:21    
The presentation was sent to Patrick before being published. I will make a correction as you think it is so important. However, I hope you got the message why periodisation was not even discussed in his book, i.e. other things are more important.
OffLine A. Tothek
  2013-10-31 08:02:34    
@ joakim: gesundheit!
OffLine PaavoK
  2013-10-31 10:32:53    
First of all, I can only concur with the review's point that this book is one of high quality and clear exercises! I've been very pleased with it even since I received it. Concerning the questions on periodisation and so on - while the book doesn't emphasize periodisation greatly, I would really recommend anybody interested in a fuller exposition on how to go about about combining the exercises for specific goals to check out the extra pdf file that you can download from Gimmekraft.de where Patrick Matros and Ludwig "Dicki" Korb go into great detail about the different types of strength one can train for, what are the different requirements for different types of climbing, and how to think about going about achieving your goals. What I gathered from reading this pdf and the looking at the exercises in the book was that the gimmekraft way of training emphasises first and foremost a holistic approach that is focused on achieving a balance between health-specific strength and climbing-specific strength together with what they call 'tactical aspects' (e.g. specific goals such as climbing trips or seasons with best conditions) and 'mental aspects' (e.g. your level of motivation and focus). Having said that I also understood that the authors do recommend that whatever routine you do have, you ought to change it at least every six weeks. Reading that together with their understanding of the various different types of strength required for climbing (maximum strength, speed-strength (power), strength-endurance) then you could interpret the authors as proposing some sort of periodisation. However, I found that such an approach was secondary to the many other considerations that the book highlighted such as focusing on complex movement in strength exercises, varying exercises, training progressively, and with sufficient load, and focusing also on training under mental stress. Be all of that as it may, I have to say that it is simply a true pleasure holding the book in your hands. Everything from the paper quality to the way in which the exercises are explained makes Gimmekraft a very useful tool to have in your bookshelf. My thanks to the authors and team behind it!