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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Janja Garnbret (20) best competition track record ever Login in to contribute
Janja Garnbret (20) best competition track record ever
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-05-15 00:00:00    
Janja Garnbret has won the last six WC boulder events she has entered. In Lead, she has missed the podium once in all the 25 WCs she has done since she was 15 years old. In total, she has won 62 % of all Boulder and Lead WCs she has competed in. In the four World CH events she has participated in she has won three gold and one silver. (c) Eddie Fowke from last year winning in Munich.

Interestingly, she has been selective and not done all comps any year. Last year she just did three out of seven Boulder WCs and in 2016 she did not participate in the WCH. During the years we have seen many youngster being very successful being 15 or 16 years old but all most of them stopped competing quite early. Adam Ondra has also been careful selecting comps in the start of his career.
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OffLine pbla4024
  2019-05-15 18:00:10    
The best competition climber won four individual championships, she won two. The best competition climber won five world cups, she won three (four if you count 2019 boulder). The best competition climber won 29 world cup events, she won 23. So not the best track record yet.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-15 20:57:36    
So who has a better competition track record?
OffLine Jason Crank
  2019-05-15 21:07:06    
pbla - her accomplishments in comparison to the number of years she's been active on the adult international scene is pretty stark (Akiyo is a dominant force, but has also been at it what, 10 years?)
OffLine Tomi Lindroos
  2019-05-16 08:12:00    
There are so many indicators for "the best" that everyone of us can imagine ourselves better than average drivers.

In this case:
Extraordinary track record - OK
Exceptionally awesome track record - OK
One of the best ever - OK
The best track record - verbal fight

=DD
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-05-16 08:38:14    
I think that if you have participated in 10 comps and have won them all you have a better track record in comparison to another person having won 11 out of 100.
OffLine Mark Nauser
  2019-05-16 08:45:09    
Well, she might not be the best of the best now, but there is still a chance for her to bloom sometime later. Maybe at 27...
OffLine louis de cornulier
  2019-05-16 11:15:49    
Some people do love hair splitting...

what is the longest winning streak on the WC circuit for Lead? For Bouldering? Both combined? Male? Female?

What is the greatest number of WC victories (lead/boulder/both combined) over their first 5 years on the senior circuit? Male? Female?

I am ready to admit Janja is the greatest, but I'd also like to know how far behing are the others, just like when you say AO leads in number of 9b-and-above ascents, you give the numbers for the runner-up in order to show how exceptionnal he really is.
OffLine JLH
  2019-05-16 16:17:00    
"Best" is definition dependant. On a list which only counts what's most important (wins on WC and WCh), Janja is currently #2 (after Sandrine Levet), but with good chances to be top at the end of 2019 season:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Best_IFSC_results#Women

But I guess she is maybe (close to the?) top when considering % of wins in comps she participated, both in lead and bouldering. She is also special (women only) in that she is superior in two disciplines (B, L). The only other woman, who won two titles at WC&WCh was Olga Bibik (won WC 2006 in B and WCh 1993(!) in speed).
OffLine Jason Crank
  2019-05-16 19:06:59    
All of this arguing could be prevented if folks made specific statements instead of sweeping statements.
OnLine bernd oman
  2019-05-22 13:52:45    
‚track record‘ refers to the achievements up to now. she‘s only 20, dudes. she‘s BY FAR the best ever at her age.
and more titels to come considering her superiority in both lead in boulder.