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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Eternit and many Manolo routes have been destroyed Login in to contribute
Eternit and many Manolo routes have been destroyed
OffLine 8a.nu
  2017-11-04 00:00:00    
One week ago, Adam Ondra published on his Instagram that he had problems doing Maurizio Zanolla, aka Manolo's Eternit 9a and said it is possibly 9a+. "one of the hardest vertical face climbs in the world for sure."

In the aftermath of this we have received many comments explaining that actually most of Manolo's hard core routes have been altered since the FAs was done. Jolly Lamberti published the picture on his Instagram, showing the status of Eternit.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Travel Alternative
  2017-11-04 17:57:13    
This picture means nothing to me. Can you provide some context? 
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-04 18:38:22    
The only context that exist are comments from climbers. Possibly you could also use Ondra's inability to do a 9a as context. I
OffLine Steve
  2017-11-05 02:38:38    
Quoting what Jolly wrote under that picture or providing a link to the instagram post would be context. But you should know that.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2017-11-05 12:59:00    
So... Lamberti's pictures show quite clearly that there are chipped holds, and if the route is 9a(+?) with the chipped holds, how hard was it when it was supposedly climbed by Manolo without the chipped holds?
And why is Ondra raving over a horribly chipped route?
This whole story stinks.
OffLine Mr.k
  2017-11-06 16:33:34    
On Lamberti's book Run Out (first version) there is all the story about Eternit. In very few words could be resumed that when Jolly went to try the route he feelt it very hard also for a 9a, so he compared the holds with Manolo's video. The comparison shows without any doubt that the holds where chipped after Manolo's ascent. Is not possible to know who chipped it but for sure now they are worst than the first ascent was made.
Also I'm demanding to myself why Adam is trying that piece of shame, that is also in a very far away spot.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2017-11-06 17:46:45    
Ok, so it was chipped after the FA, but was it also chipped before the FA? And if so, by whom?
OffLine Milky "Dad-Bod" Williams
  2017-11-08 16:10:17    
Was it chipped? Or did holds break? If it was a thin face climb on tiny crimps, broken holds would seem likely. Also...I don't know anything about this story or route, but unless there's reason to believe it was intentionally altered, it seems a stretch to assume that's the case. Holds break all the time, especially small ones.
OffLine Joakim Thommesen
  2017-11-08 19:16:03    
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-11-09 18:22:04    
Manolo released a 15-20 minute small video production called "Verticalmente Demode'" documenting his send of the project.
The consensus is that the route wasn't chipped then. Also, the route is an extension of a previous 8b/8b+ route by Manolo (called "o ce l'hai o ne hai bisogno"), which (again, by consensus) was all natural.

The questions essentially are

1 - Who chipped it after the ascent?
2 - Why Manolo has never noticed/lamented the chipping of the route?
3 - Why nobody has ever bitten the bullet and asked Manolo about the chipped status of the route?

Also, Jens, what happened to the other bombastic topic about rewriting history and with interventions by Jolly Lamberti and Emanuele Pellizzari? Can't find it anymore...
OffLine Emanuele Pellizzari
  2017-11-09 21:17:46    
@Franz. Yes, my comments were deleted together with Jolly's. I did not delete any comment though on my FB account.
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-11-09 23:35:07    
October 31 I suppose? Thanks