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Check Speed potential through standing longjump
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-11-04 00:00:00    
Three years ago we asked some speed experts how fast they thought the non-speed specialist could do it. As they thought it would take a year of physical training and getting the sequence optimized to go below eight seconds, we now know they were wrong. One reason for them getting dead wrong might be that Sean McColl had been struggling for years without doing any sub eight seconds run.

With Yushiyuki Ogata doing 6.71 and also Tomoa Narasaki getting sub seconds without any proper physical training at the same time many struggle getting below ten seconds, it is clear that climbers have different talent. Talking to some coaches and athletes this has also been confirmed.

The Norwegian coach Reino Horak says that he thinks standing long jump and sprinting 20 meters are good indications of who can be the fastest. Possibly this means that if you can jump 2.80 cm, without any training, you can go below seven seconds?
OffLine grubber
  2018-11-05 12:03:37    
If you can't jump 2.80 cm something might be fysically wrong with you, haahahaha!
OffLine paulo
  2018-11-05 16:33:42    
I think that the "Tomoa skip" used by many of -non speed climbers- can optimize the first part of the route. Many athletes now use the "Tomoa skip", obviously Tomoa but also Ogata, Ondra and now McColl, that will be finally able to go under 8 seconds with that method. Ondra thinks that the speed route with the Tomoa skip becomes around 7b but is way faster. Check the videos of the Tomoa Skip online and judge by yourself.