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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Check Speed Potential by first 4-5 moves Login in to contribute
Check Speed Potential by first 4-5 moves
OffLine 8a.nu
  2019-02-01 00:00:00    
We have previously said that standing longjump is a good measurement to check the Speed climbing potential. The Norwegian coach Reino Horak has mentioned that 2.80 cm could be an indication if you could go sub 7 seconds.

Another method to value your potential is to just focus on the first five moves (4 using the Narasaki skip) and measure your time. The 5.60 world record time had a split time of some 1.5 sec. Narasaki reaches his fourth move after some 1.8 sec when he does sub 7 seconds.

So instead of training 20 sessions to check the natural talent for the full 15 meter Speed climbing having a problem with the sequence etc, it might be better to just spend five sessions focusing on the first five moves. If you can not get close to 2.0 seconds, it might be very hard to get below eight seconds.

However, it should be mentioned that the best female, who have done 7.32 seconds, reach move five after some 2.3 seconds. In other words, they loose much more time in the start in comparison of the finish. One explanation for this is that it is better to be taller and more explosive in the start compared with the finish.
OffLine Simon Maillard
  2019-02-01 15:17:02    
You are unbelievable Jens.
OnLine Thomas Bach
  2019-02-03 23:33:53    
Jens, give us a break with your pseudo-science please. First, the same damn route have been in use for over twenty years. Dont you think the athletes must be familiar with the movements on the route before true potential is somewhat measurable? Surely that takes more than 15-20 sessions.
Second, you have to consider max-speed vs acceleration? Usain Bolt is a great example. He is always amongst the last out of the starting block. It takes time for him to gain momentum. Regardless he is (was) superior.

So as you always say Jens: "you are dead wrong!"

And to be clear, I don't give a shit about speed climbing and the olympics.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-04 08:49:52    
Reino Horak, who has been the personal trainer of Youth World Champion Hannes Puman from Sweden since he was 13 years old and who know in the Norway Head Coach, agrees with everything that has been said here.

Almost all climbers do not like Speed and many has not yet decided if they should go for the Combined. "So instead of training 20 sessions to check the natural talent for the full 15 meter Speed climbing having a problem with the sequence etc, it might be better to just spend five sessions focusing on the first five moves. If you can not get close to 2.0 seconds, it might be very hard to get below eight seconds."

I started out as a trainer for the Youth National Team in Sweden as was Said Belhaj's personal trainer when he was a teenager. I am sure he would also have been very negative to spend 20 sessions in order to evaluate if he has a natural talent in Speed. However, I am sure I could have made him do five short sessions to check his time doing the first 4-5 moves.

Then we could have evaluated his time as see if it was worthwhile to continue going for the Combined or not.

Please be respectful in the forum and make sure that you read what is written thoroughly before you answer. As an example, I have not said that it takes 15-20 sessions to evaluate the true potential as you said.
OffLine Jon Megent
  2019-02-04 16:38:40    
The problem I have with the speed 'experts' is that they assured us elite boulderers/sport climbers would have to spend years of intense training to get under 8 seconds. 100% wrong, and that casts a bit of a shadow on other pieces of training wisdom they give us.

@Jens, you just said twice in the same post it takes 20 sessions to evaluate natural talent in speed:

"So instead of training 20 sessions to check the natural talent for the full 15 meter Speed climbing...",

and...

"I am sure he (Belhaj) would also have been very negative to spend 20 sessions in order to evaluate if he has natural talent in speed..."
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-04 20:26:48    
Yes I am saying you can check your natural Speed talent in 20 sessions if you focus on the full 15 meters.

However, if you only focus and evaluate your time up to the first 4-5 moves, you can check your natural speed talent in 5 sessions.

The reasons for this is of course that it will take much more coordination training to execute all the 15 meters perfect instead of just work the coordination of thr first 4-5 moves.
OnLine Thomas Bach
  2019-02-05 16:06:17    
Jens. You just can't ok?
What is also funny is that 8a, supposedly the most influential climbing media is void of any substance. It surprises me that during the 15 years that I have been reading your so called articles, none can be considered proper journalism. I have yet to see an in-depth interview with any of the top climbers that you so much admire. And the "train-articles" that pop up once in a while are usually so fucked up its laughable. Usually you back this with the fact that you used to train Said belhaj etc in their youth. Thats all fine, but it doesn't back your theories in any way.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-05 16:32:53    
Thanks for visiting us for 15 years straight and saying that 8a is "supposedly the most influential climbing media."
OnLine Thomas Bach
  2019-02-05 20:41:03    
I said "supposedly" How about publishing some more in-depth articles? If you can't do it yourself, why not outsource the work for some $$??
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2019-02-05 21:01:11    
Why change a winning concept? On 8a you almost never need to click on a link to read. Instead you can just read everything directly.

It seems that the other websites that often publishes long articles have more or less stopped publishing. 8a has also published several long articles but it seems not so many click on them. I guess this relates to that more people read from their mobile.
OnLine Martijn Pieterse
  2019-02-07 10:53:00    
Speed climbing is pathetic, maybe even worse than crossfit.

The holds are ugly, the route has been the same.

Please use one of the lead climbing qualification routes for speed climbing.