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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / "Caving" anchors should not be placed on routes Login in to contribute
"Caving" anchors should not be placed on routes
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-11-15 00:00:00    
Based on an incident where the webbing of a quickdraw was cut after six sideway falls, the normal hanger was replaced with a Raumer "caving" anchor, see picture. The idea was to move out the quick draw so that the webbing should have less contact with the sharp granite just below the hanger.

Although such hanger can be used in a top anchor, creating less rope drag as the quick draw or the screw carabiner get perpendicular, this hanger is not designed for dynamic load. Further more, it is important that the load stays downwards. The "caving" hanger could put the quick draw in a bad position which can lead to ruptures, i.e. carabiner breakage.

Emanuele Pellizzari, who is selling Kinobi bolts etc since 15 years, explains the risk which also Raumer, the manufacture of the bolt, have confirmed.

"That hanger is not meant for climbing falls. It is meant for static load with a clear direction of force. In fact it keeps the biner perpendicular to the route, like in belays/rappels. It should be removed and replaced with a regular hanger. This is a typical case of mis-use by the equipper."​

What is your best advice if the local club do not want to chop the bolt and drill a new hole? What about replacing the having hanger with an anchor with two rings?
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Fatty Boom Batty
  2018-11-15 15:37:24    
put a chain on the hanger.  easy solution.  cheaper than even a new hanger, let alone drilling a new hole and installing a different bolt/hanger
OffLine Grosariu Stefan
  2018-11-19 15:34:59    
Or just move the bolt to where the granite won't cut webbing.......