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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Adam Ondra's Geisha shoes Login in to contribute
Adam Ondra's Geisha shoes
OffLine 8a.nu
  2012-06-29 00:00:00    
Adam Ondra who have 44 in regular shoes, "These 38.5 Futura feel rather comfortable I just might choose 38 the next time".

In fact he only climbs with super small shoes and the biggest size is 39 out of five different La Spotiva shoes. The trick he uses when they are brand new is to squeeze them in by putting the heal and toes inside the plastic paper that goes with the shoes.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Horss
  2012-07-01 09:49:29    
Interesting information, allthough the foto is not really nice :-) This small size seems to be very extreme. I go 2 sizes below my standard (from 45 to 43) and in the beginning new shoes hurt quite enough. Now Adam is so far out, that I think his choice of size must make somehow sense (and in fact he proofs it nearly daily...). But to be honest I can hardly believe that anyone can feel anything with his/her feet, when squeezing them in shoes 5 - 6 sizes below the standard ???? Would be an interesting question for a poll: How many sizes do people take climbing shoes below their average ?
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2012-07-01 10:23:30    
I have 41.5-42 for my normal shoes. My La Sportiva Python are 39 and they really hurt at the beginning, but now they are comfortable, maybe even a tad large. I also bought 38 of La Sportiva Tarantula recently (over the internet, so some risk there) and I couldn't even squeeze the foot in at all. I bathed them in hot water, they stratched a bit, and then I have worn them while showering, and they got a bit larger. I'll repeat the procedure probably another couple of times until I can wear them easily, then I'll start climbing with them to "break" the toe part... But wearing 39 when one has 44 of regular shoes... Holy cow...
OffLine Idar Ose
  2012-07-01 12:13:28    
I use Soluition 38 , regular 42. After the painfull break-in they are quite comfy.. 
OffLine BOR
  2012-07-01 14:27:20    
42,5 regular, 41,5 anastazi verde/vcs, 40 miura, 40,5 miura vs, 39,5 triop rap manufacturer and model makes a difference
OffLine jaap
  2012-07-01 15:27:13    
43 regular - 41 anasazi verde - 40 testa rossa. tried 40 in scarpa vapor... but got an inflammed bigtoe joint from it. can't use them anymore... :(
OffLine Jolli
  2012-07-01 20:59:53    
44-45 street shoe. I don´t use very curved and special shoes what ever the brand.- five ten (anasazies), evolv (pontas) 42,5 - 43- millet (hybrid) 41,5 - 42- la sportiva (katana, barracuda) 40,5 - 41
OffLine grubber
  2012-07-02 09:19:24    
street shoes 44.5, all sportivas 41.5, which works good for me. the speedster stretches less than other models, so I've had some trouble on hot days, but nothing serious. I just got my pythons, and because of injury haven't worn them a lot yet. so no idea how they do :)
OffLine gianluca
  2012-07-02 10:17:51    
I wear 42.5 street size and once had a 38 pair of speedsters. very soon one of the pull-on straps failed due to bad stitching. I sent the shoes with a letter to laSportiva france asking if they thought it was normal and/or they wanted to change them/make a commercial move. They answered "climbing shoes need to be fitted snugly, but not too much. The shoe failed because you went too far". So, ondra goes too far according to his sponsors' sales representatives. They must know climbing better than him...
OffLine Giamo
  2012-07-02 13:52:35    
Am I the only one who had the regular shoes measure decreased after 10 year of climbing? I was used to wear 42 on street shoes, now 41/41,5.. are my feet shorter due to climbing shoes? I suppose so
OffLine grubber
  2012-07-02 16:17:04    
I have the same feeling giamo, I think I dropped half a size..
OffLine BananaMan
  2012-07-02 19:17:46    
how does he smear? 
OffLine Pelican
  2012-07-02 21:21:26    
with Painkillers, i guess