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6.87 in Speed by Tomoa Narasaki
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-06-26 00:00:00    
Tomoa Narasaki reports on Insta that he won the Japanese Combined Championship and set a new Speed record at 6.87. 8a has previously said that he is one of the favourites to take the Olympic gold in Tokyo 2020. At this point, Tomoa should be considered the number one candidate together with Adam Ondra.
OffLine rai
  2018-06-28 15:09:36    
Wait wait, still 2 years to come, there can be many surprises; For now you're right...
OffLine User Deactivated
  2018-06-28 23:28:14    
How very, very uninteresting.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-06-29 10:56:41    
... especially after claiming "it's counter-productive to seriously train speed before 2020".
OffLine John Render
  2018-06-29 12:56:06    
Hans, I find it interesting. A guy (Tomoa) who has not done much speed is already significantly lowering his times, clocking in the 6s. Suggests to me a few things:

1. Narasaki can probably lower his speed time more, and maybe a lot more;

2. He is probably not the only boulderer/lead climber who is very talented at speed;

3. Speed at the Olympics maybe just maybe will start to approach world-class;

4. If Ondra doesn't practice speed, and get real good at it, he might get swamped in 2020. Same with other sport climbers.
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2018-06-29 14:10:27    

"To get below 7 seconds in Tokyo 2020 you need to focus half of your training on Speed as well as gaining some weight in the whole body. Thus you will also have to deal with the mental pressure that your standard in Lead and Boulder will deteriorate and you will have to climb outdoors less."
OffLine Bojan
  2018-06-29 18:42:28    

"Training Speed seriously to become #21 in the World Champion qualification should mean at least 5 hours a week. This will make you gain at least 2 - 4 kilos at the same time you will have less time for training Lead and Boulder as well as getting outdoors. In other words, the guys investing in serious Speed training will loose much more than just one position. This means that the "ordinary" results in the World Cup also will deteriorate and if you can not evolve yourself into an Olympic robot, your mental health and strength will be poor when the qualification starts."

I didn't notice Tomoa get some weight. And he doesn't seem to have problems to still make WC 2018 podiums in bouldering...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-06-30 12:44:36    
That article was based on comments from some of the best speed climbers in the world which actually seem to have been wrong. 8a can not do much more then asking the best speed climbers and ask for their opinion which we published.

It should be noted that Sean McColl has been competing in Speed for several years and has not yet done it below 8 seconds. Last year Tomoa did it in 7.85 after three training sessions. I am sure Tomoa has not yet done any serious speed training working specifically with his leg muscles.
The article quoted above finished with.

"It should be added that Libor Hroza, currently #2 in the Speed World Cup, after reading the draft of the article, said:

- It looks good. I totally agree with climbing less outdoor, for those who will go to Olympics there won't be too much time for rocks. Rocks will be just an award when season is done. You have to look at climbing in the Olympics as a competitive sport, without typical lifestyle climbing thinking. The sport is way too far from rock climbing and it will go even further because of the Olympics."
OffLine John Render
  2018-06-30 15:15:19    
Jens, instead of stating things as incontestable fact, you might label them as opinions, even if expert opinions. e.g. you could write, "according to several of the best speed climbers in the world, training speed seriously to become #21 in the World Champion qualification should mean at least 5 hours a week."

At the very least, this shows (again) that expert opinions and assurances have their limitations, and are sometimes wildly wrong.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-06-30 15:58:44    
The article begins with, ”After talking to some of the best speed climbers in the world...” and finishes with naming a champion who approved it.

I did hope this made it clear that it is their opinion and not mine. As a matter of a fact, another champion was even more negative in regards how fast it was possible for the lead and boulder guys to reach.
OffLine John Render
  2018-06-30 22:22:04    
The article titled, "Is it counterproductive to train Speed before 2020?" contains the paragraph about 5 hours per week speed training, and gaining 2-4 kilos. It doesn't say a word about speed specialists. It does make several statements as absolute fact that were totally wrong.

The article titled "The Technical, Physical and Mental Speed Olympic challenges are extreme" refers to speed specialists. That article is remarkable for the number of statements in it that proved false:

* "Without any specifically explosive or lower body training, the most talented will go sub 9 seconds once the sequence has been optimized to perfection." Tomoa went sub 8 seconds almost immediately. IIRC, a few other top climbers have started off around 8 second or less as well.

* "In order to go below eight seconds, you probably need to do specific physical training for a year and also do many competitions, which would get you to understanding how to deal with the mental pressure." Narasaki went under 8 seconds after just a few sessions. Did Jan Hojer also get a similar result?

* "To get below 7 seconds in Tokyo 2020 you need to focus half of your training on Speed as well as gaining some weight in the whole body." Narasaki again proves this is nonsense.

Again, Jens, experts are not always so expert, as this article proves.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-06-30 23:04:30    
I agree but I guess the best person to act like an ”expert” is the speed experts. Remarkable they were dead wrong. I assume they based their expert opinion partly on McColl’s performance.
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2018-07-11 13:28:44    

"Most probably none of the 20 selected once will be any good on Speed climbing. I mean, the World record is around 6 seconds and Ondra and the rest Of the gang will do it on 8-10 seconds."
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2018-07-11 19:16:20    
Please read above. It was the speed specialists who missled us saying it is super hard to get below eight seconds.
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2018-07-11 20:58:05    
The article from 2015 neither talks about nor mentions speed specialists as its source of information.
OffLine Steve
  2018-07-12 01:21:24    
A very common and good way to write articles is in the form "expert x says y and z says t and the opinion of s is..." and not like "it is y, t and ...". There's lot of room for improvement for 8a.nu
OffLine KlemenP
  2018-07-12 08:14:55    
"There's lot of room for improvement for 8a.nu"

A LOT, indeed. But not with Jens - his writing style will never improve.