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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / 0.1 point for touching/controlling the Top in Bouldering Login in to contribute
0.1 point for touching/controlling the Top in Bouldering
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-08-14 00:00:00    
As you probably know, based on the change in the IFSC bouldering rule, it is possibly to present the results as points. Last year I was part of a Working Group in IFSC invited to a meeting in Munich where I suggested one bonus point for a flash as well as increase to two zones.

One reason for this is to make competitions more fair based on how good the athletes did climb. Two zones will also reduce the risk for going home empty handed with zero zones, aka 0 points as happened often for 10 % of the field like in Moscow YWC.

Another way, or in a combination, to make the comps more fair and understandable for the spectators could be to give 0.1 point for touching (or controlling) the final hold with one hand. Alternatively, you can define the second zone as controlling the top with one hand.

It is simply not fair that one climber who just reaches the zone gets as good score as, or possibly even better, compared to the one who climbs several moves longer and falls matching the final hold. It should be mentioned that such unfairness happens more often for the ones further down the list who do not make several tops.
OffLine Bojan
  2018-08-14 20:30:56    
OffLine Bojan
  2018-08-14 20:31:07    
The most fair system is the one used for lead qualis (with two routes) and for (olympic) combined ranking, i.e. the product (or sum) of the ranks for each boulder/route/discipline.
AFAIK, this system was used in the past in US bouldering nationals, but was omitted, i.e. replaced with more simple (3-zone) points system.

Although I prefer this system also for bouldering it seems IFSC thinks it's too complicated for the spectators and also takes some time to calculate, which seems to be acceptable in lead qualis and in combined, but not in bouldering (finals)...