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Forum: GLOBAL / Editorial / Sending conditions and tricks during winter Login in to contribute
Sending conditions and tricks during winter
OffLine 8a.nu
  2018-12-19 00:00:00    
Many of the best climbers think that the best sending conditions are found during 5 degrees. If it is a sunny wall, you can climb also during freezing conditions. Here are some tips how to keep warm. It is all about transporting your 37 degrees blood out to your finger tips.

1. Warm up indoors properly including also max power
2. Tight long arm sleeves, wrist warmers and mitts
3. Cut of the finger tips of your gloves
4. Chemical hand warmers in the chalk bag
5. Sweater with belly pockets (cut them to warm hand on your stomach)
6. Big shoes so you can wear a socket
7. Put your shoes and gloves inside your jacket
OffLine The Whistleblower 6
  2018-12-19 10:51:42    
[POLL CLOSED]: How would you rate the original article above?

Final poll results:
* Awful: 48%
* Poor: 25%
* Average: 15%
* Good: 3%
* Excellent: 9%

66 votes in total
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-12-19 14:39:57    
The Whistleblower 6. Very nice input. Thanks for your insightful comments. ............ not.
OffLine Henning Wang
  2018-12-19 15:32:17    
Any more info on who these "many of the best climbers" are that think 5 degrees is optimal and why ecaxtly 5 degrees?
As far as I know no one thinks 5 degrees is optimal..
As far as I´m conserned the one key factor for optimal sending conditions is wind, the temperature is secondary as long as it dosn´t go to low or to high. If you for some reason want to claim 5 degrees and no wind is better then 10-15 degrees and wind I´d be very interested to hear the reasoning behind it.
OffLine Sebastian Peace
  2018-12-19 15:43:33    
https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-this-friction-science/ (I know this does not exactly answer you question Henning but it is related)
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2018-12-19 16:37:22    
Here is a poll based on 1 923 unique votes confirming that around 5 degrees is what they think is best.

Below freezing 159 8.27% 8.27%
4 celsius (39F) 620 32.24% 32.24%
8 celsius (46F) 521 27.09% 27.09%
12 celsius (54F) 327 17% 17%
I enjoy the sun 296 15.39% 15.39%
OffLine Henning Wang
  2018-12-19 20:02:18    
Hmm ok, but a poll is not "many of the best climbers in the world", it´s a random group of people that voted, most likely few of them among the best.
Also what is this poll for? Much like Sebastians article above (thx for that by the way!) 0-5 degrees seems to be good for bouldering (I will agree with that for me personaly but I doubt many girls will agree), but for sportclimbing however thats just not ideal for almost anyone unless the route is like 5 meters long..
Ask anyone if they would rather climb (not boulder) in 5 degrees or 15 and I´d think you´d see atleast a 90% for 15 degrees.
Also, without adding wind and humidity this poll of yours dosn´t say anything about optimal conditions. Temperature alone is as I said, at best, a secondary factor when determining conditions..
Without wind, conditions for sportclimbing is medicore at best at any temp. This is the reason you see big portable fans down in the corner on most bouldering photo´s these days. If you haven´t picked up on it yet just look at that shoot of Shawn on the low start to Off the Wagon again
OffLine Harry Larkins
  2018-12-20 13:53:25    
Chemical hand warmers?? Could have sworn you just wrote an article about climbers having to save the planet...
OffLine pbla4024
  2018-12-20 14:49:59    
"chemical" warmers contain:
1) Coal
2) Iron
So you end up with iron oxides. Those are pretty common in nature.
OffLine Freddie Chopin
  2018-12-20 16:51:44    
> "chemical" warmers contain:
> 1) Coal
> 2) Iron
> So you end up with iron oxides. Those are pretty common in nature.

Seems logical, however it's rarely that simple (; After all, CO2 is pretty common in nature too, so why all the fuss about it? [;

Hand warmers internally are indeed pretty "natural", however the contents are wrapped in plastic, so not very "natural" (however also pretty common, hence all the issues with pollution [; ). This simple reasoning also forgets the fact that neither coal, nor iron lay on the ground on grow on trees, you usually have to dig them up and then purify, both using processes that are far from being "clean".