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Recruitment finger training
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2006-01-12 00:00:00    
Read article: Recruitment finger training
OnLine Suq Madiq
  2006-01-19 18:26:08    
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2006-01-19 19:08:45    
Thanks for bringing this up. i know the article is not that clear ;) Good luck! 10 immediate pulsations means more or less hanging 0.1 seconds. It is like jumping which reduces the load on the fingers. 2*2 moves means left, right, left, right
OffLine okmijn
  2008-10-15 10:44:36    
hi im replying to your article on gripping finger positions and recruitment finger training.. ive
heard that closed crimping is not good for the fingers because of the
additional stress the thumb and the rest of the hand exert on the
fingers.is it true? my question is : is the closed crimp a
stronger but more detrimental alternative to the open crimp or do they
work different muscles? thanks-
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2008-10-16 21:25:54    
They work different muscles. Most climbers are stronger in the closed crimp but actually some of the top climbers like Natalija Gros use open hand also on 'crimpers'.
I guess there are bigger risk to get an injury by the use of crimpers. Most of the open hand injuries come from when you use the open hand with just one or two fingers.
OffLine Shock
  2008-10-16 23:07:47    
Just wanted to add what the "instructions" say which came with my Metolius fingerboard. They say that you should use open-handed crimp as much as possible since it 1) lowers the risk of potential for injury 2) is necessary for certain kinds of holds (e.g. slopers, pockets) and 3) strengthens your closed crimp as well (using closed crimp does not strengthen your open crimp).
OffLine Vanlu
  2012-02-17 11:00:13    
Hi there! I'm afraid you're missing two more positions: 1: The magic "extrem closed crimp" which it's a bit bone driller and painful at the beguining but ' surprisingly' powerfull with some practice. 2: The abominable nails crimping, similar to the extrem closed crimp but still radical, just strong nails and hanging with 2 hands from 1mm its posible , and I never seen from one hand but I guess there is lot of not climbers who are able...
OffLine mr. monkey
  2012-02-17 12:56:07    
still have chills from the nailkrimp graham did in dosage one or two..  slab in font..  hope i never have to do this.heh..  by the magic ¨extrem, closed crimp¨ i guess you mean the one where you also krimp with the little finger? know i have seen sharma use this one, but i cant get anything out of it..  but for 3finger crimps i would think its a good thing to work on.
OffLine jarvoramas
  2012-02-25 09:39:56    
Or is it when you don't lock your first knuckles and just pull down on your tips . I did this on door frames when i just started , not knowing what a full crimp was .
OffLine Ion .
  2016-02-23 13:28:00    
Hi! Thanks for your article. I have always been stronger open handed than crimping, so any good advice for improving that kind of holds is welcome. When you mean 2*2 moves, do you mean doing campus while crimping? I find the idea really agressive for the fingers. At least for mines.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2016-02-23 13:58:04    
Thanks :) The key thing for improving the crimping technique is to not use more load than your crimping position can handle. If you try to land crimping but you end om open hand with some fingers you should reduce the load, i.e. use bigger rungs or shorter distance.  Recruitment is about to learn your muscle to use more fibers. Regarding the 2+2, I mean that you should do go up with the right hand and then continue with your left hand. Then you repeat it starting with the other hand. On a campus board doing dynamic moves, you should never try to land on closed crimp and only start with closed crimp if you are very experienced. There is always an injury situation.  If you in general what to be stronger in closed crimp you should just climb closed crimp even on warming up but very gently. It is about to learn your muscle how to crimp and by warming up with open hand you send the wrong signals to your crimping muscles.  Once you learn this properly, you can change your predominate gripping position by the day, challenging different type of holds... good luck :)