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  2008-07-28 00:00:00    
A few months back our editor fell and reported that his lower carabiner broke in the fall. He was 10cm from smashing his head into the rocky ground. After careful investigation it became clear that he had clipped the bolt with the lower end of the carabiner and that it was this that broke, which is much more common. At first there was a suspicion of a "bad" carabiner but then it was discovered that the carabiner had got stuck in the bolt between the screw and the bolthole (see picture for an extreme case). If this happens the carabiner only holds for about ONE THIRD of the force (3.5KN instead of 10KN). A 4m fall(2m above the last clip) at 15 meters gives a fall factor of about 0.27 and a force of 5KN, which will cause the carabiner to break if it is stuck like shown here. In addition to the manufacturer testing, an 8a associate has tested this in his lab and the above is true for most type of carabiners, and not just the brand used by our editor. Take care out there!
OffLine Ludwig Davidsson
  2008-07-28 23:27:42    
Alright, I think this cleared up some shit, and I actually think you owe petzl an apologize for publishing such bad publicity about their biners.
OffLine Ian Maffett
  2008-07-29 13:42:10    
I'll second that. trying to be the "leaders' but are way irresponsible when trying to create news. Good thing everyone else recognizes the classes practices they promote.
OffLine Pascal Heger
  2008-07-29 15:08:59    
What was irresponsible about the way they published the article? The suppliers name was not mentioned... They clearly tried to present the facts of the incident without pointing any fingers. The supplier came back with tests that explain how the karabiner could break on the relatively short fall / low impact. Nothing wrong in my opinion.
OffLine Ludwig Davidsson
  2008-07-29 21:41:58    
Yeah that is all true but, seriously who doesn't recognize a petzl biner, I still think  they published the news and facts rather humble for sure. But it has for sure been bad for petzl.
OffLine Johan Svensson
  2008-08-01 15:58:04    
I am the editor responsible for this news and the one to blame for everything. My intention was never to create a bad name for Petzl, but to make people aware of that there might be a bad set of carabiners out there, and to watch out. In these cases, when there is a risk of dying, there is no time to go through the "right" channels and this sometimes leads to mistakes. Perhaps one might say that "I did the wrong thing for the right reasons". One has to keep in mind that I was 10cm from smashing my head, and this stirs up a few emotions. In any case I hope this is over and that we have learned that clipping in the wrong way can lead to breaking carabiners (I still think this should be mentioned in the safety pamphlets of manufacturers). I am very sorry for what I have caused and hope Petzl acknowledges my apoligy.
OffLine Ludwig Davidsson
  2008-08-01 19:25:50    
Johan You did absolutly the right ting when publishing this news but again it wasn't hazardous because of "a bad set of biners" but the cause of human "misstakes". That's the importance of the news of course. As you said let's move on from here.