Mina Markovic interview

All pictures by Luka Fonda

Mina Markovic has had a steady competition progress the last ten years, resulting in winning the WC Lead overall as well as the last Boulder event in 2011. After the third event with tied winners in Barcelona, Mina was very critical, "We train hard and deserve better routes than this."


How could you be so successful in 2011?
At the end of 2010 I set up a plan and decided to attend both - lead and bolder, with more focus on lead, sure :) and I admit, I had very high motivation and big goals. I think training smart, with a good set up plan, with my coach Roman Krajnik and with the Slovenia climbing team was a big advantage. I also have 'luck' with health, no injuries. All I have to say is - I REALLY enjoy climbing, I like to climb, train and compete (hard:) and I have good people around me. That's it! :D


How could the World Cup be improved?
Hmmm, about WC format ... For sure, I think they need to take the rule of super finals back or at least the routes should be set harder and more dynamic, like I think the year before was done. It seems that the trend is moving to more dynamic, powerful, technical and also interesting-to-watch lead climbing competitions. But I don't know what happened the last year as the longer routes with more/all 'happening' to last few moves returned. OK, I admit, that routes like this are very 'safe' and pleasurable to climb but on the other hand ending the final route with more quite fresh competitors is not what we are looking for. OK, it is acceptable that maybe at the beginning of year they didn't know the level of climbing, but later... SUMMARY: I don't know... but as I said in the beginning - super final or more 'intensive' routes.


What are your plans for 2012?
I am planning to compete in lead and boulder again :) I wish to stay healthy so I can climb hard, improve my climbing and enjoy in this perfect sport! :)

"About my OS of Hidrofobia... after quite looooong competing year 2011 I took a long rest - 3 weeks totally without climbing :(. During the NY I went to Siurana with friends, just to enjoy company and nature and to start easily climb again. One day I went to climb 8a (os) and the guy who belayed me told me to continue straight to the top... I had no idea what I was climbing or where it finish I just following the quick draws and having a good feeling after long time without climbing! :) I have to said that I was also impressed about the level on my climbing after the break :)"

Now, I have already started to train and prepare for this year! And it is such a nice feeling! :D