15 February 2009

Lamprecht Vitae

CLIMBER:
 
Name: Toni Lamprecht
Born: 28.04.71 in Starnberg
Height: 188cm
Weight: 80-90 Kg
 

"Born on the 28th of April 1971 in THE SOUTH OF Germany I started to go to the mountains with my family at the age around 4. Together with my Dad we climbed several 4,000-meter peaks together in Switzerland beginning of the 80's. AFTER A SHORT ALPINE CLIMBING Career, I LOOKED FOR A NEW CHALLENGE so at the age of 14, I finally discovered real CLIMBING. Together with my oldest climbing-friends Frank Grauer, Thomas and Albert Bucher we became the "wild climbing kids" later backed up by the ingredible Uli Strunz.
The following years I turned into a "climbing-junkie", dreamed, thought and lived climbing every day (bouldering, sport or alpine). I wanted to collect as many hard sport routes all over Europe as possible, make first ascents and tick off some of the important limestone alpine routes on the northern rim of the alps.
 
After a short competion-career in the German National Team I setted my first "sportclimbing" highlight 1990 with the first ascent of "Baby Basher", 8b+ in my home area Kochel.
In 1992 a trip around the world changed my focus on climbing from numbers, ratings and competitions to adventure, basically the experience together with friends, but of the personal limits and the forces of our nature, too.
My climbing trips led me through a lot of climbing areas in Europe, North Africa, North America, Asia and Australia. I immersed myself into the different cultures I visited, including Africa and Asia.
 
IN THE SAME TIME I began to work with handicapped children and found that learning from other people would give my life a completely new source of motivation. So while still addicted to climbing, I began to focus studying teaching for handicapped children. I FINISHED My STUDIES later in 1999.
 
And what happened climbing-wise? After realising another grade-push with "Ramayana" up to 8c+ and a few hard alpine routes I went 1996 with my friend Günter Dengler to the Bugaboos in Canada, where we established "Power of Lard", an 8-pitch free climbing route along a beautiful granite pillar around the 8a-range.
The following half-year-trip led us through a lot of "historical" places in North America, later ending up in Hueco Tanks where we met Boulder-Guru Fred Nicole. Inspired by his great personality the next years the crashpad was my main climbing partner ... .
 
In 1999 I went on a long road trip with Klem Loskot a bunch of other German-Austrian-boulder freaks to Australia, where we established a lot of first class boulder problems. In the following decade I established a lot of really satisfying boulders and personal bouldering highlights with "The Dagger-Sit-Start", "Marla Singer" and "Bokassa's Fridge" (Fb 8bc).
 
In 2000 I released my first book, "Climbing with Mentally Retarted People," and began to work as a teacher in Munich.
 
What's more? Ah the bands - I played in 3 bands,
"Dead Clintons" (Punk-Hardcore), "Analstahl" (Old School Punk) and "G.Rag y los Hermanos Patchekos" (From Cuban to Folk music). ANALSTAHL is an old-school-punkrock-band, 3 (vinyl-)records: "ANALSTAHL, Daneben, LIVE". There are still a few climbers at the concerts, though they get rare these days because of the straight diet and their hard endurance-workouts during the evenings - most famous climber though ever seen on such a concert was Fred Nicole.  G.Rag y los hermanos patchekos is a mixture from cuban, latin over Tom Waits to traditional bavarian songs, there is a lot for everbody (mainly the girls). 4 CDs, biggest fans are female between 25 and 35 years old. Nowadays they became really professional, so they have to go on wothout me until I finally will quit climbing (if that ever will happen...).
 
There's a little bit of Adventure Climbing, too: Until 2001 the lust for adventure climbing rised again and after a bunch of "bolted in lead sport-routes" up to 5.13 in the alps, I went with some friends went on my first expedition to Greenland, where we did two lines up a 1200 meter big-wall:
"Aquasky", 7a (5.11) and "Easy or Squeezy" 7b+ (5.12) A4+ still mark a new step in
not using one single bolt, while leading nearly every pitch in "On sight".
 
In the same year I realised another long-standing project with "Die Welle (The wave)", my hardest route until today. A year later I found THE GAME FOR THE HOT CONDITIONS IN THE SUMMER with "Psicobloc" IN MALLORCA, WHICH MEANS CLIMBING IN IT'S SIMPLIEST WAY: WITHOUT ROPE ABOVE THE SEA;
NO TOPROPE, NO YO-YO, JUST PURE CLIMBING. One of the best things I've ever tried!
 
End of July 2004 a 7-member-strong group from Switzerland and Germany started to a 6-week-climbing-expedition to the South of Greenland. The expedition was situated in the Fijords around the islands Tornarssuk and Quvernit near the Cape Farvel in the very South of Greenland, home of unexplored, exposed and 1400m high Granite-towers. 
Together with the brothers Iwan and Michi Tresch, Tom Holzhauser, Michi Wyser, Caro Morel and Wanja Reichel we established 9 new routes up to 5.12 (7c) and 7 first summit-ascents along up to 1100m tall, vertical walls with a bunch of hard off-width-pitches in the upper 5.10- and 5.12-range. In our routes we avoided the placements of bolts and tried to climb their routes in single "one day-push's".
 
After those big walls my friends and me turned our attentions to bolting on lead once again in the pre-alps of Germany and found some beautifull lines with the multi-pitch "Rock the Casbah," 8bc (bolted with Julian Heidinger) and "Joe Brandinger", 8c. 
 
Since 2004 I live together with my girl-friend in Munich, where I work four days in the week with "problem-kids". Beside my job and the daily climbing-performances stays still the desire for travelling: USA, Himalaya and Africa, to name just a few of my planned forays.
 
My targets for the future besides health and my personal development are still focused on travelling with friends, chasing my personal limits in all the climbing disciplines and having fun on the rocks with the help of the sponsors and the people I'm hanging out with …
 
Personal achievments (the most important ones):
 
1) Routes (FA):
 
1985: "Atemlos"                     7a, 1st ascent
 
1987: "Tanz den Jesus Christus", 8a, 1st ascent
 
1988: "Freedom"                     8b (5.13d), 1st ascent (Bavarian alps)
 
1990: "Baby Basher"               8b+ (5.14a), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
1994: "Nangijala"                    8c (5.14b), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
1995: „Ramayana"                  8c+ (5.14c), 1st ascent (Kochel); 
 
2001: "Die Welle"                 9a (5.14d), 1st ascent (Bayrische Voralpen)
 
2004: „Dalli Dalli"               8c+/9a (5.14cd), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
2006: „Marsupilami“               9a (5.14d), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
2008: "The Devil, You and Me"     9a (5.14d), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
 
 
2) Sport-Routes:
 
1986: "Pechvogel", 7b+
 
1987: "Hyperfreiflug", 8a
         "Atlantis", 7c+, on Sight
 
1988: "Zombie", 8a
 
1990: "Crime Passionel", 8b
         "Graphique", 8a, on Sight
 
1991: "La Rose et le Vampire", 8b
 
1994: "Mach mich", 8b+
 
1995: "Le Spectre du surmutant", 8b+
 
 
 
 
2) Important Boulder:
 
1996: "The Power of Landjäger"    Fb7c/8a (V10/11?), 1st ascent (Hueco Tanks)
 
1997: "The Big Blast"             Fb 8b+ trav. (V14), 1st ascent (Kochel);
         "Antonator"                 Fb 8b bloc (V13), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
1999: "Muerte"                    Fb 8b+ bloc (V14), 1st ascent (Voralpen);
        
2000: «Fightclub"                 Fb 8b+ bloc (V14), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
2001: "Rah, Rant, Plats"          Fb 8a (V11) (Flash), (Tessin)
 
2002: „LILI"                      Fb 8b+ (V14), 1st ascent (Voralpen)
 
2003: „The Dagger I"              Fb 8b+ (V14), 1st ascent (Tessin)
 
2004: "Marla Singer"              Fb 8c (V15), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
2005: "The Dagger SD"             Fb 8bc (V14/15), 1st ascent (Tessin)
 
2006: "Bokassa's Fridge"          Fb 8bc (V14/V15), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
2008: "Assassin, Monkey and Man"  Fb 8c (V15), 1st ascent (Kochel)
 
 

3) Multi-pitch-routes and first ascents:
 
1987: "Locker vom Hocker",      8-, on Sight
 
1990: „Paranoid Game",            9+/10- (8a), 1st ascent/bolted in lead (Plankenstein)
 
1991: „Via Campari",              9+ (7c+), 1st free ascent (Buchstein)
 
1996: „The Power of Lard",        8a (5.13a), 1st ascent wuth Günter Dengler/ bolted in lead 
                                              (Snowpatch Spire, Bugaboos, Kanada)
 
1998: „The Big Lebowsky",         9- (7b), 1st ascent/ bolted in lead (Leonhardstein)
 
2001: „Aquasky",                  7a (5.11), 28 pitches/1st ascent in lead without bolts (on Sight);
      „Easy or Squeezy",          9-/A4 (7b+), 25 pitches/ 1st ascent without bolts (Los
                                               Capitanos, Pamliagdluk, Greenland)
 
2003: „Rock the Casbah",          8bc, 6 pitches (5, 8ab, 8bc, 6a, 7b, 6c), bolted in lead, 1st
                                                                            ascent with Julian Heidinger
2004: Free ascents in Greenland/ Quvernit-Island:
- „Angagoq",                  7a (5.11), 700m (15 pitches), 1st ascent: Wanja Reichel, Toni Lamprecht,Michi und Ivan Tresch, 7th August 04
- „Ghetto-Boys",              7c (5.12), 700m (16 pitches), 1st ascent: Wanja Reichel, ToniLamprecht, Michi und Ivan Tresch, 12th/13th August 04
- „Immanaq",                  7a (5.11), 1100m (20 pitches), 1st ascent: Wanja Reichel und Toni Lamprecht, 1st September 04
- „Ajumaq",                   6c (5.10), 350m (5 pitches), 1st ascent: Wanja Reichel und Toni Lamprecht, 1st September 04
- „Dos Canones",              6c (5.11), 640m (10 pitches), 2st ascent, 4th September 04
 
 
2005: "Joe Brandinger",           8c (5.14b), 6 pitches(6, 8c, 8a, 8ab, 7b, 6c), bolted in lead, 1st ascent (Germany)
 
2006: "Jonny Weismüller",         7c+ (5.13a), 5 pitches (7c+, 7c, 7b, 7a, 6c), bolted in lead, 1st ascent (Germany)
 
2007: "Marches du temps",         8a (5.13b), 11 pitches, 1st free ascent with Uli Strunz (Verdon, France)
 
      "Manara Potsiny",           8a (5.13b), 18 pitches, 700m, 1st ascent with Sandra Wielebnowski, Felix Frieder, and Benno Wagner (Madagascar)
 

4) Deep Water Soloing (1st ascents and more):
2003: Mallorca
-"Carlos Checka"
-"Solechito"
-"Republica sinistra…"
-"From dust till dawn"
-"Kill Bill"
 
2004: Mallorca
-"O-Ren Ishii"
-"Bandito"
 
2005:
-"Mamazita"
-"Lock, Stock and two smocking barrels", 3rd ascent?
 
2006:
-"Big Mama", 2nd ascent
-"Jackie Brown"
-"If you look into the shadows you don't see the sun", 3rd ascent
 
2008:
-"Pontasaffair"
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