15 February 2009

Climber of 2008

Climber of the year 2008-09-29

1. (4,2) CHRIS SHARMA -81 USA
#2 USA Boulder, #1 USA Lead, #1 Dima RM B. #2 Dima RM D. #8 WC Vail
Jumbo Love, 9b FA, Golpe de estado, 9b FA, Papichulo, 9a+ FA, Open your mind direct, 9a+, Another four 9as, 8c OS, Divine Fury 8c OS, Humildes pa casa, 8c OS
Petzl, Evolv, Prana

THE rock star and the most famous climber for the last ten years. In 2007, he moved to to climb with Dani Andrada around Lleida. This made his level raise significantly. Chris won the YWC at 15, shortly after sending his first 8c+. At 16, he placed 2nd at the World Lead Championships and since then he has been THE Rock star. For a long time, he didn't grade his FA's but lately this has changed "I understand that grades can be good for the motivation." However, this has nothing to do with his endless search and completion of challenges.

To get to the ledge where the 'Jumbo Love' starts you, according to his girlfriend Daila Ojeda drive for ages, then you walk for two hours on sand an gravel and then it is a 7c that takes you to the ledge. When working 'Es Pontas', his unrepeated DWS (the 9b suggested by 8a), he often swum out to by himself to work on the big dyno at height. It wouldn't come as a surprise if his next challenge is a trad multi-pitch in the . Although some possible adventure challenges remain, one could claim Chris to be the most important, most influential and most inspiring person in the history of Climbing.

Since 1997, when he was 2nd in the World Championships and he won the first WC he attended, Chris has been making ascents around the Globe for 12 straight years and is, at 27, also returning to the competition circuit. He is at his peak becoming for the first time the 8a Climber of the year.

2. (11,19) ADAM ONDRA -93 CZE
#1 8a Lead: 13 249; Open Air 9a+, 9a+, Eleven 9a, Three 8c OS
#7 8A Boulder: Dreamtime 8B+, seven 8B
#1 Euro Youth C, #1 World Youth C,
, Rock Empire, Montura, Hudy Sport, Tendon, Shareholder of 8A

Adam has already set some remarkable new standards in the history of climbing including some FA multi-pitches. He should, at the slender age of 15, already be included in the All Time Hall of fame. Actually, he has been in the top-5 of the 8a world ranking since 2005 when he, aged 12, onsighted eight 8b's. We have deliberately kept him down in the climber of the year list in the previous years, but now the 180+ cm teenager seems to be grown up enough to handle the pressure. If he continues to improve he will take rock climbing to an entirely new level, and on the competition scene the rest will most likely have to compete for the runner up position, or as Chris Sharma said after watching him walking 9a's last spring, - "Now, I feel like an amateur!"

Already at 12, he started to state his own opinions about grades, sometimes suggesting downgrading. He is also active in giving ethical comments regarding chipping and eliminations. In his nice role model behavior there is also room to give new beta and recommend routes, to give credit and be honest about his failures, - "Open Air is 9a+ for sure (no chance yesterday)".

Instead of taking the easy secure way of ticking long endurance 8c's in and he selects and finishes climbs in less favorable style. 'WoGü', is a seven pitch 8c at Rätikon, which he dedicated to Wolfgang Güllich. 'Ali Baba', eight pitches up to 8a+ is another of his adventure challenges the last year.

On the competition scene he won all the five European Youth Cup and the Youth Worlds in a superior style. In 2009, he will be allowed to compete in the World Cup and 8a would not be surprised if he ends up winning it.

3. (1,1) PATXI USOBIAGA -80 ESP
#2 8a Lead: 13 165; Three 9as, Home Sweet Home 8c+ OS, two 8cs OS
#1 Euro C. Lead, #4 WC Lead, #1 Arco OS
www.patxiusibiaga.com, , Black Diamond, Lapis, Walltopia, Tendon, Ternua

Patxi was declared the climber of the year both in 2006 and 2008, Patxi onsighted his second 8c+, Home Sweet Home at . The route had been a local project for a long time before Patxi was offered the First Ascent on an onsight try. Patxi is a hard worker, often training and climbing on rock seven days a week. He been competing successfully for 15 years including 2008 when he became the European Lead champion.

4. (29,29) ANNA STÖHR -88 AUT
#1 WC Boulder, #2 Euro C. Boulder, Eight 8A are listed on her home page
www.anna-stoehr.at, Mammut

Anna was #5 in her first Difficulty World Cup and runner up at the European Boulder Championships in 2004, when she was 16-years-old. She has not been doing the full competition circuit until 2008 when she won the Boulder World Cup title in a superior way. Her previous Boulder competition results are as impressive; #5 in the World Champion in 2005, #3 in the World Cup in 2006, #2 in both Speed and Difficulty at the World Youth Championship and in 2007, the Boulder World Champion.

However, the comps are just a small part of her climbing life. She is in the adventure business and she has projects all over the world, like at Castle Hill in New Zeeland, which made a great impression on her in 2008 and likewise for Hueco Tanks, where she, last year, did 17 boulders 8A.

It seems like Anna doesn't care about nerd lists, being really quiet about all her climbs. And the list seems kind of stupid as we now know that she would have been 8a Top- 2007 instead of #29 if we had been fully updated. Actually, she just might be the best boulderer out there over the last three years.

5. (3,8) MAJA VIDMAR -85 SLO
#2 8a Lead: 11 400; Two 8a+ OS, #2 WC Lead, #2 Euro C. Lead
www.majavidmar.com (slovenian), Scarpa, Nihil, Top 30, CAMP

Maja suffered from a finger injury making her miss the first six months of the season, including the first two World Cups. She is one of the most dedicated when it comes to training and rest days isn't exactly her thing, her record being doing boulder circuits for 22 days straight. She studies Multimedia engineering.

6. (15,12) KILIAN FISCHHUBER -83 AUT
#1 WC Boulder, #2 Euro C. Boulder, #1 Arco Boulder, Memento , Eight 8Bs
www.kilian-fischhuber.at (German), Vaude, Edelrid, low key dedicated climber who has been combining outstanding competition results with high end sends on rock since 2000. Mainly focusing on endurance routes outdoors and bouldering comps indoors. Kind of a strange combination one might think, but very successful as it is, perhaps it says something about the boulder competition format. Since 2004 he has been on the boulder podium some 20 times in some 35 starts, with the overall ranking: 2 1 2 2 1). In 2008, he was totally outstanding counting six results of Top-2 or better.

7. (12,7) TOMÁS MRÁZEK -82 CZE
#2 WC Lead, #2 Euro C. Lead, #6 8a Lead: 12 500; Eight 8c+
www.tomasmrazek.cz, Ocún, Rock Pillars

Drives across Europe together with his girlfriend Helena Lipenska and their dog in a Van, looking for hard routes and competitions. 8a climber of the year 2004. The overall best competition climber in the last eight years: 3, 2, 6, 1, 8, 5, 3, 2. For the last four World Championships his score is: 2, 1, 1 and 3. He has also won one boulder World Cup in 2007. An outspoken and funny guy. Here is his critical view of the competition scene which Tomá Roubal got in an interview.

I take part in the competitions for money, I climb because I like it and I dont care about anything else. The things that are made up at IFSC are terrible, the quality of the competitions is declining concerning the resources, course, isolation and so on. I think the main problem is in their officers. They are there for twenty years, formerly as a part of ICC, but since then they just separated from it without any fresh idea about what to do with it. The only idea the president of Scolarise has is Our dream is to be the Olympic sport. He keeps talking about it but the real chance is negligible. At first we have to sell the SP to the sponsors, support the organizers and attract people. Unless the people in charge change, nothing will change. Former competitors who understand the thing should be in charge. Thats why the only thing that goes ahead is the Masters competition. It stands outside the World cup, outside IFSC, from where they take a referee to control its justice and thats all. The organizers make it in their own way: for the competition to be interesting, just a route or two and final to make it quick and absorbing. And thats it. I think climbing is popular but it isnt reflected on the competitions. Since 2000 it has been stagnating and now it even decreases, Id say.

8. (18,6) JORG VERHOEVEN -85 NED
#1 WC Lead, #18 WC Boulder, Full Throttle 8B, nine 8A+s, Desperation of the North Face 7b+ FA . 'Da Katha geht die Flatta' 7a .
www.jorgverhoeven.com, , Petzl

Jorg is an IFSC spokesman and he has been competing actively since 1999. He has been the World YC twice and in he has been winning WC events and coming really close to winning over all a couple of times. In 2008, he got his first title after a dramatic finish at Kranj. Jorg lives since many years in training with the Austrians. On his website you can see that the focus, besides the comps, were on bouldering and putting up multi-pitch routes including hand pegging bolts in the . - We did 13 hours of nonstop climbing, starting at night, rappelling down at night. Of course the route is traditional, but has hand pegged 8mm bolts at half of the belays for rappelling down.

Almost no hard sport climbing but taking every possibility for an adventure like this in April - This weekend I started off for Arco, although looking for a friend, I couldn't find him, and found myself on my own... The result was a 6c max slab on the 'Sonnenplatten' on rope solo (so with a Gri-gri, every pitch up, down, up...). It took me four hours, afterwards I was pretty broke...

9. (13,14) DANIEL WOODS -89 USA
#1 8A Boulder: 11 565; In Search of lost time FA, ten 8B+, #3 8Aa Combined: two 8c+, #14 WC Boulder
www.wodsfamilyclimbs.com, The North Face, , Petzl, Sterling, Organic

This wonder kid has been a world class boulderer since he was 15-years-old. This year he placed fifth and third in the two WC boulder competitions he entered, and for the first time he won the 8A ranking. In total, Daniel some 700 ascents registered in the 8a database.

10. (2,9) DAVID GRAHAM -81
#2 8A : 11 535; Three 8Cs: The Island and Khéops assis at . And Big paw at Chironico. #8 8a Lead: 12 455; Kryptonite 9a
Eastern Mountain Sports, 5.10, Petzl, Beal,

Dave has been an 8a ambassador since the very beginning and we declared him as the climber of the year for five consecutive years before we started to publish the yearbook. He has close to eight hundred ascents registered in the 8a database. During the last two years a couple of finger injuries have prevented him from reaching his full potential.

Dave is very outspoken and has very strong opinions on many climbing issues, such as ethics and grades. This is very brave but sometimes it has brought negative headlines. 8a believe Daves attitude is good for the sport and he was very much a driving force in stopping the inflation of boulder grading by down grading 15 of his most difficult ascents.

This year he started to give lectures and slideshows. Successful as he was and he will continue to do so in order to fulfill his passion with and on the rock.

11. (8,13) DANI ANDRADA -75 ESP
Delicuente natural 9b, Four 9as, Directe incredible 8B
daniandrada.blogspot.com, Petzl, Boreal, Beal, Trangoworld, Blue Arrow, Shareholder of 8a

Dani was active on the competition arena until 1997 he was the World Speed Champion and he has three WC victories in Bouldering. Overall he was #3 in Bouldering in lead his best result is #5.

Dani is superior in the world when it comes to putting up hard First Ascents. He is the God father of Santa Linya, possibly the most impressive sport climbing cave in the world with some 20 routes of 8c and harder. He has also made the most important FA's at Terradets, Rodellar, and Margalef. He never leaves his apartment or his caravan without his drill. He might not be the first guy at the crag but he is always the last and if there is a rest day coming up he doesnt go to bed before he has done some one-arm pull-ups in his pinkie.

If 8a were to choose the most important FA of all time, Dani Andrada would be a superior #1. The unique thing is that he is as psyched to put up 7b+'s as 9a's. Naturally, a percentage of Danis routes have been downgraded, due to growing holds, new sequences etc, but an equally high proportion is due to be upgraded. When it comes to letting one arm go and then doing a extreme cross-over knee-drop from a shallow two finger pocket Dani A muerte is the amazing king. According to Chris Sharma, he's a veritable beta machine, remembering every move of every route he's ever done.

The secrets: 1. Sleeping at least 10 hours 2. Two minutes standing on your head 3. Driving 1 hour daily to the crags 4. No eating at the crag 5. No warming up 6.E-vitamins on his hands 7. Always guests in house/caravan 8. Endless amore with Andrea 9. Putting up lines every day 10. Having fun a muerte at the crag

12. (99,-) JOHANNA ERNST -92 AUT
#1 Euro C. Lead, #1 World Youth C, #1 WC Lead, #1 OS & Duell
Minas Tirith 8b+, White winds 8a+ OS
www.johanna-ernst.at (German), Vaude, won her two first Lead WC and had already secured the title when she was still 15-years-old. Her climbing style is not the ordinary slow and knee-dropper one. Instead, she is full of girl-power climbing relatively fast, dynamic and straight up. Everyone knew that she was the new wonder kid already last year when she, sometimes, out-climbed the celebrities during training. But nobody, possibly with the exception of her dad, thought she could be the best female climber already at 15. Johanna goes to a sport academy where she is allowed to train more as it takes four years to complete compared to the normal three years.

13. (7,10) RAMON J PUIGBLANQUE -81 ESP
#3 8a Lead: 13 075; Realization 9a+, Open your mind 9a+, #3 WC Lead, #5 Euro C. 5
ramonjulian.blogspot.com (Spanish) Tenaya, Beal, Fixe, Milo, Top-30

14. (10,55) PAUL ROBINSON -87 USA
Terremer or 8C+, Six 8B+, #1 USA Bouldering, #3 World Cup Vail
p-d-robinson.blogspot.com, Prana, 5.10, Organic, Soli holds

Paul has a very interesting and personal blog with pictures and great stories about life, competitions and roadtrips. Not necessarily in that order. Since 2003 he has done some 300+ 8As and harder more than 70 of which in 2008. October 14 he broke his foot in Magic Wood but it didnt take long before he started training again. His project Tick List for 2009 is ambitious: Es Pontas 9b and five 8Cs

I think that it comes down to motivation really! I have been pushing myself so much harder the past two years than ever before, climbing more, training more, and getting outside a lot more. I think that the experience I have been getting with more climbing and more years in the game has also helped. Sending more and more boulders is giving me the confidence to tell myself nothing is impossible anymore. I think my most memorable story of 08 has been either doing Terremer or my day in Magic wood where I did 73 points in 3.5 hours or even competing at the world cup in Vail!

15. (46,-) AKIYO NOGUCHI -89 JPN
#1 World Youth C, #2 WC Boulder, #5 WC LEAD, Liquid finger 8b, Kani 8A
http://ameblo.jp/akiyo530 (japanese), The North Face, , Petzl

16. (9,5) CHARLOTTE DURIF -90 FRA
#2 WC Boulder Grindelwald, #5 WC Lead, #6 Euro C. Lead, #3 World Youth C, #1 8a Lead: 12 075; four 8cs, Spider Cochon L1 +L2 8B+, Two 8b OS
www.chadurif.fr, Beal, Petzl, Prana, EB

When it comes to onsighting long routes, has been #1 since she was 15 and with two 8b+ and more than 50 8a+ onsights she is challenging even the best men in this field. Her first 8a onsight, she did at 14.

17. (73) ALEX PUCCIO -89 USA
#1 8A Boulder: 9 903; four 8A+, Skin boat 7c+, #1 USA Bouldering, #6 WC Vail
5.10, Verve, Flashed

fiveten.com: 2008: Everyone knows I love to compete, but I realized that I wanted more, the enjoyment of competing just wasnt enough. So I moved to last summer, I wanted to start bouldering outside more.

2009: I hope to take a few month climbing trip to with Carlo. Do a lot of bouldering everywhere and some World Cups, maybe even win a few.

18. (-,-) ALEX JOHNSON USA
#1 WC Vail, #2 USA Boulder, #2 8A Boulder: 9 759; Clear Blue Sky 8A+, two flash
5.10, Prana, Organic, Metolius, Nicros

To win a world Cup in your debut is simply sensational and to make it even more remarkable, until one month before the comp, when she finished school, she had to drive 1.5 h to reach the bouldering gym and outdoors, she hadnt done a single boulder. Previously she had won two medals in Speed World Youth C.

fiveten.com:
Early History of Climbing? I started climbing when I was about 8 years old, did my first competition when I was 11...I won, so I thought that Id be alright at this sport. Ive been climbing and competing ever since! I love it!

Any particular climbing/travel goals for this year? Nothing concrete. I have a lot on my plate this year. Its my senior year of high school. Im juggling school, climbing, applying for colleges, track, scholarships, coaching the team at the gym. If I get a break from school and I have a destination in mind Im going to try my hardest to get my butt there. I want to go on a huge summer roadtrip before I go off to college, so hopefully Ill get to do that. But no solid plans.

Favorite climb? Darth Mal 13c at the Red. The moves are just amazing, each hold is unique, and it flows really nice. And it looks pretty.

19. (32,27) SEAN MCCOLL 87 CAN
#9 WC Lead, #8 WC Boulder, #6 8A Boulder: 11 115; three 8B+, #22 8a Lead; two 8b+ flash

www.seanmccoll.com, Blurr, Petzl, La Sportiva

20. In spite of his good over all WC result, Sean only participated in seven out of 13 events. He is also a semi-professional pianist with a grade royal conservatory piano. He has won the World Youth C. five times. He did his first 8b+ at 12. Although being a wonder kid hes still developing and all his adventures around the globe is actively captured in his blog.

21. (5,49) ETHAN PRINGLE -86 USA
Six 8cs including Cobra Crack traditional, five 8b+ traditional, three 8A+
www.ethanpringle.com, 5.10, Petzl, Mountain Hardware, Maxim, Metolius

Coming back from injury, Ethan seems to have been on a quest of repeating all the hardest single pitch trad routes in the States. Ethan was the 8a combined ranking leader in 2007. His trad achievement of 2008, one 8c and five 8b+s might be unparalleled. Only the occasional overuse injury has been able to delay him slightly from time to time.

(It should be mentioned that in a comparison with sport grades, trad grades are much harder. One reason for this is that in trad you are supposed to place all gear on lead. This was also the ethics when the trad climbers started to climb on bolts. Over time, the ethics in sport have changed into preplaced and this is the major reason of the gap between sport and trad grades).

22. (22, -) MAGNUS MIDTBÖ -88 NOR
#4 8a Lead: 12 688; three 9as + two he downgraded, tsunami 8c flash, #6 8Aa Combined: 8B and 8A+ flash, #10 WC Lead, #14 Euro C. Lead
www.magnusmidtboe.com, Frictionwalls, Mammut

Magnus started climbing eight years ago and, being a super talent, he was among the best already from the start. He won his first EYC in 2003 and got the YWC title 2005. His worst result for the last nine WC is #13. Magnus prefers flash in the qualifications. He lives in , on the west coast of , one of the rainiest places in , so to compensate he has some 200 travel days a year. Best climbing areas: Céüse, , Siurana, Santa Linya, Provence-Alpes-Cote d'Azur, Troendelag.

23. (33,48) TYLER LANDMAN -90 GBR
Practice of the wild , two 8B+s, Cullinan 8B flash, heaps of 8Bs
Moon, 5.10, Metolius

Crushes anything that comes in his way. He is a notorious downgrader stating that most of his hard ascents are Soft including his proudest boulder in 2008, Practice of the wild . , or Jumbo, isnt interested in participating in rankings anymore, feeling that it takes more out of him than it gives. Instead hes writing a blog on moonclimbing.com. Its very much worth checking out if you havent already.

24. (23,3) DAVID LAMA -90 AUT
#2 WC Boulder, #12 WC Lead
www.david-lama.com (german), Mammut

Only, 18 years-old but already a veteran who actually has had time for some time off. He won the WYC in 2004 and 2006, he won his boulder WC debut and was #2 in lead WC debut. The next lead event he won and then he won the Lead European Championships! In 2007 he won the European Championships in Bouldering. In 2008, he won one and got third in the only two lead events he did.

In January he broke his leg after a big rock came crushing down when he was up projecting a new route. However, shortly he was back training sporting a plaster. He also quit school this January to be able to focus more on climbing.

David did his first 8a when he was 10 and his first 8b+ at 12. 8a made the first internet interview with him when he was 11 and in 2005 he was #5 in the world ranking. Lately he has put his focus towards doing and putting up multi-pitch routes instead of high end sport climbing.

25. (45,-) BARBARA ZANGERL -88 AUT
#3 8A : Pura Vida 8B (A+)
5.10, Adidas, Black Diamond

Björn Pohl: The first time I heard the name Barbara Zangerl must have been in the summer of 2004. During my six week stay there in Magic Wood, I heard stories about this 15 year old girl, her almost legendary crimp strength and her powerful way of climbing. "She climbs really powerful y'know. Like a guy! " The rest is, as you all know, history. Since then Barbara, or Babsi, has just kept adding 8A's and 8A+'s to her list, so when I saw that she was in Arco, a nominee for the Climber of the year at the Rockmasters, I decided I should have a chat with her when there was time. Time, as it turned out, was the problemanway, email works fin too.

So, who is Babsi Zangerl? Well, I am 20 years old and I live in the Tirol, , in a small village, called Strengen, near the ski resort St. Anton. At the time I study at a medical technical school in . I have two sisters and two brothers. Often we go climbing together.

Who've made you who you are? Influences both in climbing and life. Have you had any role models? I dont have a real role model. When I was a child, I tried a lot of different sports. I did a lot of skiing and snowboarding, I also tried skateboarding and football. For me it was always possible to do different kind of sports mostly together with my sister. When I was 14, our brother took us to the climbing gym in Flirsch. That was much better than all other things I did before. In this climbing gym I met Bernd Zangerl (no relation). He took me to the rocks and showed me the bouldering spots in . . It was much better than climbing indoor. Since that trip I knew thats my sport. I really like the nature.climbing and being outdoorexploring. We have a cool climbing scene in our hometown a climbers-club (Klettergruppe Arlberg) There's a great atmosphere in our scene. You always find someone to climb with and do something.

What's the most important for you in life? My health, friends, boyfriend, free-time, climbing, fun, travelling,..All things which makes me happy.

What's the thing you like best about climbing? Everything! Its a lot of fun, you have to concentrate just on moving! I like playing with the rock! Having a good time with my friends.being outside, in nature and looking for new boulders. I like traveling, seeing new places, finding new boulder problems! In specialwhen I can do something on my limit- and I worked really hard for that. I feel happy. It's just an amazing feeling when you manage a move that you haven't been able to do before. But what I enjoy most is climbing abroad, in new climbing areas and not thinking about anything.

How come you are so powerful? Have you trained in any special way or has it come natural to you? How do you train today? At the moment I can not climb a lot because my back is injured. I have a Prolaps (Discus). So at the time I have therapy and I visit the fitness gym to train special my back. (Its getting better now.) Last week I started climbing again and it didn't feel too bad. At first I will climb some routes before I start with boulders again.

At the moment I cant jump down.. and maybe I need a crashpad carrier for future!!! ;-) When I am fit, I train in the climbing gym. For me usually the training season is in winter. I always train 3 times a week. In a training session, I climb a lot of different boulders and I train one time a week on the campus. When its possible to climb outside.I train on the rocks, on projects.

What do you think about climbing competitions? Competitions are interesting... I can learn lots from them, for example how to resolve a problem quickly or how to channel all my strength at the right time. But at the moment I'd find it hard to spend a lot of time I climb outdoors training on plastic. Maybe next year I will start on some competitions in . At the moment I like adventuresI have so much more to learn, and so many more areas to explore! beautiful new places and projects.at the time that give me more.

What are your dreams, plans, projects for the future? In March I will be finished with school. When its possible for me I will travel more.It would be cool to visit some spots like Hueco, Buttermilks or maybe Rocklands again. I have a lot of projects in different spotsand maybe I will start on some competitions. I think it will not be boring.

Are you a boulderer 100% or do you also exchange crashpads for rope and harness every once in a while? I really enjoy climbing at the crags and in fact here in the we've got more cool crags than cool bouldering areas. Nevertheless I boulder more than I sport climb, Perhaps I'm simply addicted to bouldering at the moment. But in the future yes, I'd like to try some hard routes.

You next project ? How do you choose them
.when I find a cool line which motivates me..I have to try. I've found good boulder problems in every area, I visited in the past. I like different rock, different styles in climbing.

26. (24,-) NALLE HUKKATAIVAL -86 FIN
#3 8A Bouldering: 11 456; The Island , Living the dream 8B+ FA, Amandla 8B+, Sky 8B+, #3 Arco Boulder
www.nallehukkataival.com, , NIHIL

Nalle, who was #5 in World C. Boulder in 2005 at 19, and #2 in the Euro C in 2007, didnt have any real success on the competition scene in 2008. Instead he has been focusing on boulders outdoors and last year, he did 8B+s in , and Europe including a FA in .

I think the most memorable moment this year was topping out Amandla in . The sun was setting and it was getting dark. There was no one else in the area anymore, just our group. I was on my last try on the problem because it was dark and we only had a couple of headlamps with us. The air was cool and it was completely quiet. I gave it a go and stuck the crux move for the first time. At that time it was already so dark that I couldn't really see the holds anymore. People were pointing their headlamps to light holds one at a time and I managed to press out the mantle. That moment standing there on top of Amandla looking at the last glimpse of light in the horizon everything was just perfect.

28. (-,-) BETH RODDEN 80
Meltdown 8c(+) trad,
bethandtommy.com, Marmot, Petzl, , Blue Water, Metolius

Beth started climbing at 1995. She won the Junior Nationals 1996 1998. 1n 1998, she did To bolt or not to be, 8b+. Since 1999, she has been focusing on trad climbing. On a climbing trip to Kyrgyztan in 2000, she was held hostage for six days before managing to escape.

29. (38,41) KLEMEN BECAN 82 SLO
#5 WC Lead, #9 Euro C. Lead, #21 8a Lead: 12 110; four 8bs OS
Evolv, Edelrid, Julbo

Klemen has been a very active competition climber since 1996, and in 1997 he won the WYC. In 2008 he first made the podium for the first time in , and then his first victory, winning in front of his home crowd in the final World Cup at Kranj.

30. (82,-) JAKOB SCHUBERT -90 AUT
#7 WC Lead, #6 Euro C. Lead, #1 Euro Youth Cup, #1 World Youth C. four 8As, six 8cs, Doble Lluna 8b+ flash
www.jakob-schubert.at, Mammut

If he continues his development he might be Top-3 overall in 2009. He has won everything in the youth categories and now hes knocking on the senior guys door. He is climbing 25 h per week and, as he lives in and goes to a sport academy school, his training opportunities are excellent.

31. (52, 46) JON CARDWELL -89
#2 lead, #9 8a Lead: 12 402; Kinematix 9a, six 8c+. #13 8A Boulder: 10 873; Ode to the modern man 8B+, five 8B
Petzl, Flashed,

Jon was #4 in 8a combined ranking bouldering, he has been doing 8Bs since he was 15 but his progress with the rope is just amazing, stepping up one grade/year on average for the last five years.

32. (43,-) GABRIELE MORONI -87 ITA
#4 WC Boulder; three 8B+, five 8B, Nagay 8c, #7 Euro C. Boulder,
5.10, E9

Gabriele has been competing actively since 2001 and in 2002, he won the World Youth C. At 16, he was sensationally #3 in the European C. in Bouldering. In 2008, he was second in two WC events and over all, #4.

33. (54,26) KATHARINA SAURWEIN -87 AUT
#1 Arco Bouldering, #4 WC Boulder, #10 & #12 Lead events, #7 Euro C. Boulder
www.katharina-saurwein.com, Mammut

Katharina has been competing actively since 2001, focusing on lead events until 2008, she switched to bouldering with an immediate success as she won in Arco, being #4 in the WC including winning the last WC event. Her best results in lead are; #3 in the European C in 2004, at 17; #2 in a WC event in 2005 and #1 in the World Youth C. in 2006, including winning all five European Youth Cups.

27. (14,17) DAI KOYAMADA -76 JPN
#15 8A Boulder: 10 675; two 8B, #46 Combined: Monolithic baby 9a
Every year this power machine shocks the Frankenjura locals by quickly repeating their hardest routes and boulders, many later published on Youtube. Dai is the All Time High combined 8a world ranking leader. Between 1997 and 2000 he did some competitions and his best result was #4 in lead.

34. (30, -) STEVE MCCLURE -71 GBR
Rhapsody 8b+ trad, Northern exposure ext. 9a,
www.steve-mcclure.com, Beal, Entreprises, 5.10, Fat face

Steve is a high class speaker, coach and trainer. He has more than 100 published articles within media and last year his endurance article was included in the 8a yearbook. And, oh, hes a decent climber as well! His great specialty is using his feet and once he is onsighting 8bs youll often see him hanging from his toes above his head. Steve has been climbing for more than 30 years and most of the hardest FAs in is done by him. Nevertheless he says the route quality is better in , but being a dad, he has to continue the redpoint game at home and as nobody has really tried his routes, there just might be a 9b in the .

35. (95,-) JOEY KINDER -80 USA
#7 8a Lead: 12 480; Kryptonite 9a, Golden direct 9a FA, five 8c+
www.joekindkid.com, Eastern mountain sports, , Gregory, Petzl, Sterling, Metolius

Joey runs a very updated blog with a lot of personal thoughts. He is always psyched and he is also putting up a lot of routes. He is not really into the onsight game, but when it comes to redpointing, he is absolutely world class. Although 28, he has had a steady development for the last four years, improving from 8b to 8c+ on his Top-10 average.

36. (79) CHLOÉ GRAFTIAUX -87 BEL
#18 8a Lead: 10 357; A bout de souffle 8b, #4 Euro C. Boulder, #19 Euro C. Lead, #17 Euro C. Speed, #8 WC Boulder, #9 WC Puurs, #13 WC Ice
Millet, Black Diamond

Chloé is a very diversified climber. She competes successfully in all disciplines including Speed and Ice. In 2008, she did an 8b and bouldered and on her profile picture on 8a.nu, she is doing a trad multi-pitch. In 2002, she won the World Youth C.

37. (21,34) CEDRIC LACHAT -84 SUI
#3 Euro C. Boulder, #18 Euro C. Lead, #8 WC Lead

38. (48,-) BERNHARD SCHWAIGER -75 AUT
#4 8A Boulder; Anam cara , five 8B+s FA in Saalachtal,
www.schwaigerbrothers.com (German), Nihil, Evolv, Black Diamond,

Bernhard has been a top-ranked 8a climber since 2001, when he did his first 8B+ Flying Circus. He has put up some 40 8B FA in the Saalachtal. On his website there are some areas described including topos. He started to climb in 1994 and since 1998 he has been focusing on bouldering.

39. (-,-) EDUARD MARIN -85 ESP
#5 8a lead; La novena enmienda 9a(+), The Mummy 8c flash, Cosmos 8A+,

World Youth C. in 2006, he was #7 in the WC after having won one event and his worst result out of ten, was 16^th. In 2007, he tested positive for illegal drugs and was banned two years from any IFSC competition until 1 august 2009. Edu wrote an open letter to 8a, where he admitted what hed done and explained the story.

40. (45,30) ROSTA STEFANEK -77 CZE
#5 8A Boulder; four 8B+ FA,
Pad, Luna Rossa,

In the All time high combined ranking, Rosta is #5 including one FA and Bimbaluna 9a+. He has been Top- the 8a combined ranking between 2001 and 2006. Sometimes he has officially been accused for lying and faking his ascents. Once he actually had to go to to show a reporter that he could to a boulder and he did.

41. (42,57) CHRIS WEBB-PARSONS -85 AUS
#8 8A Boulder; Purring puma 8B+ FA, seven 8Bs, 8c,
chriswebbparsons.com, Moon, Black Diamond,

Chris has climbed since 1999 and after only four years of climbing, at 18, he had done both 8b+ and 8A+. You often find nice stories, pictures and videos on his homepage. He has won a couple of national boulder comps but not yet tried the international scene.

42. (27,52) DAVE MACLEOD -78 GBR
El vuite art 8a+ OS, Echo Wall (no suggested grade), The Walk of Life E9/12, 8a+/8c?
www.davemacleod.com, Black Diamond, SCARPA, Mountain equipment

Dave is one of the very few climbers who successfully combine, trad, bouldering, sport and Alpine style ascents. Dave has had an extremely big year with ascents of Echo wall, a potential death route in a remote location high on Ben Nevis, and a fast repeat and downgrade of James Pearsons The walk of life, E9 to E12(8a+ to 8c+?). His blog, where he elaborates his thoughts on ethics, training, danger and pretty much everything else, is very much worth following. Together with his wife Claire, he filmed and produced the movie Echo wall.

43. (91,-) MINA MARKOVIC -87 SLO
#3 WC Lead, #3 Euro C. Lead, #1 DIMA Duell
Rock Pillars, Ocún

44. (25,-) IRATI ANDA -82 ESP
#4 8a Lead:11 205; Santa Linya 8b, four 8a OS, #16 WC Lead, #18 Euro C. Lead
www.iratianda.com (Spanish), , Black Diamond, Ternua

In 2007, Irati was the runner up on both plastic and rock but in 2008, the start of the season was ruined by an injury in her right wrist.

45. (36,24) MARTINA CUFAR -77 SLO
#3 8a Lead: 11 210; Tom et je ris 8b+, four 8a OS,
martinacufar.com, shareholder of 8a Climbing Inc. 5.10, Prana, Petzl, Beal

Martina has been a world class climbers on both rock and plastic since 1994 when she did her first 8a. In 2001 she won the World C. Lead. She stopped competing 2006 and since then she also climbs long multi-pitch trad routes and has lately also tried sky-diving.

Don't think that you are on the wrong website, because this time you won't read about climbing. It's skydiving that fascinated me completely in last weeks! At the beginning I had lots of problems. I was trying everything but wasn't able to free fall in stable position. I had no control over my body that was rotating faster and faster to the leftI began to experience fear and after 15th jump I almost gave up.

But my skydiving friends were encouraging me. And when I took them climbing and saw that they are afraid to fall, I was telling them that theres nothing to be afraid of and that they shall relax. Easy to say, hard to do. And in skydiving the situation was inversed.

They were telling me; relax and the air will shape your body correctly. So I continued. I soon lost fear, because I saw that even with rotations the parachute opened correctly. I was watching videos of ideal skydive, imagining myself being them. And every next jump I was trying to disconnect my mind and feel the air. 21st jump I finally succeeded! When I got the final speed (about 180kh/h).

46. (35,36) EMILY HARRINGTON -86 USA
#1 USA Lead, #24 8a Lead: 10 251; Lighting 8b+, Gin & Tonic 8a+ flash
, Petzl, The North Face
Emily was 2^nd in the World C. Lead in 2005 but it is hard to find motivation to do the World Cup, living in USA.

47. (-,-) NINA CAPREZ -86
#1 8Aa Combined: two 8b+, Fight Club 7C+, #16 WC Boulder
www.ninacaprez.ch (german), Mammut, Julbo

Nina was the superior 8a combined ranking winner. I started climbing in the Räthikon, so I did a lot of alpine stuf. 4 years ago I started sport climbing and really to train. Climbing all the time gives me a big satisfaction and Im always motivated to try all the different kind of climbing!

48. (-,-) AUDREY GAWRYCH -90 USA
#2 8Aa Combined; Jungle Book ss 8A, 8a+, 50 7c+ OS, #2 North America C.

49. (47,37) IKER POU -77 ESP
ikerpou.com,

50. (58, -) JENNY LAVARDA -82 ITA
#2 WC Ice, #13 8a Lead: 10 737; Santa Linya 8b, Gioiello 8b, #17 Euro C. Boulder, #24 Euro C. Route, two #15 WC Boulder, #15 WC Lead,
jennylavarda.com (italiano), Red Bull, Sportiva, Petzl, Beal

Jenny won the World Youth C. in 2001 and she has been very active both on Rock, Plastic and Ice since than. In 2007, she was the combined world champion since she also performed well in the Speed event.

51. (26,-) MURIEL SARKANY -74 BEL
#1 DIMA Rock Master, #12 WC Lead, #12 Euro C. Boulder, #13 Euro C. Lead,
www.murielsarkany.com, , Cassin, Sterling

Muriel started to climb in 1989 with a background in Gymnastics and Karate. She has competed successfully since 1992 when she won the WYC. Between 1997 and 2004 she dominated the WC scene: 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 2. At the same time she was World Champion in 2003 and European Champion in 1998 plus three times #2 in the World Champion. In 2007, she was back at the top being #2 in the World Champion and #3 in the WC. Muriel is a full time climbers spending her days on the road or working with indoor climbing. She is monthly paid by the government as long as she competes. I plan to compete one more year as it actually makes it possible to travel around the world. In 2008, she travelled from March to December.

52. (28,-) MARTIN STRANIK -90 CZE
#23 Euro C. #21 WC Boulder, Boulder, #13 8a Lead: 12 272; Dikobraz 8c+, five 8b OS, #7 8Aa Combined; Zlaty drak 8B FA, #2 Euro Youth Cup, #3 World Youth C.
martinstranik.blogspot.com (Czech), Saltic, Singing Rock,

53. (31,42) YUJI HIRAYAMA -69 JPN
Uma 8Bb+, Ginga 8Bb, The Nose 2.37.05
The North Face, Sportiva, Beal

Yuji won a WC in Tokyo 1991 and has since then kept delivering every year. Lately, he has been focusing on Big-walls especially El Cap, . In October, Yuji and Hans Florine set a new speed world record for the 870m and 31 pitches of The Nose. If we divide it into pitches, it means that they, together, spent less than five minutes, including putting up stands and belaying the second person. However, some pitches they climbed simultaneously, meaning no belay at all.

54. (-, -) Alex Honnold -85 USA
#53 8a Lead: 11 635; The Promise 8b trad, three 8a onsight, El Nino 8a+ trad over five days in Yosemite#35 8Aa Combined;
Maxim, Black Diamond, amazing thing with Alex is that he successfully combines almost all disciplines in climbing; Big wall, Boulder, Sport, Trad and there is no special preparation. One month he delivers on the grit in the , the next week he is pushing on 8c in sport, followed by a multi-pitch and some weeks later he is doing in Hueco tanks.

Björn Pohl: Who is Alex Honnold? What makes you tick?

I'm from . I'm 23. I don't know what makes me tick. I like climbing. I go out and climb a lot. It's pretty simple.

How come you chose traditional climbing? Was it always like this?
I wouldn't say I "chose traditional climbing". Sometimes I trad climb, sometimes I sport climb, doesn't much matter to me. I climb with whatever protection is required. It's still just climbing either way.

I think it's always been like that. Since I started climbing in a gym I naturally favored sport climbing to begin, but since I have learned how to place gear I think I've been equally comfortable with either.

What do you do to stay calm and focused in dangerous situations? Do you perceive them as dangerous?
I don't think I "do" anything while I'm climbing. I generally get psyched while I'm on the ground and then try to stay in a "happy place" for the whole route. At least that's true for soloing. I definitely don't perceive soloing as dangerous. Of course I know it is, but at the same time I "know" I won't fall. So it's not really dangerous.

Have you ever been really scared on a climb?

I've had many fleeting moments of terror while I was soloing. Particularly when I was just starting. I have a lot of half forgotten memories of random routes in Joshua Tree. Hesitating below roofs, not sure if I wanted to keep climbing. Backing off friction slabs that were technically quite easy but incredibly insecure. But I used to be more stupid about forcing myself upward. Now I'm much more inclined to retreat if I don't feel like continuing. I used to push through that feeling more just because I thought I was being a pussy to back down.

I think the time I've been most scared with a rope on was on the route Nautilus in the Needles, CA. I tried to link 2 pitches and wound up massively run out with no more gear and crippling rope drag. And I wasn't sure if I was on route. And I couldn't reverse. I just got all worked up. But I just kept trying different things and shaking out. I took my time and eventually sorted myself out. In the end it was all in my head [and my topo was incorrect].

You say that you used to be more stupid, forcing yourself upward does that mean there was some kind peer pressure when you began soloing. How come you began free soloing in the first place?

There was never any peer pressure. If anything people pressured me not to solo. I just put the pressure on myself. I'm not really sure how I started soloing and it'd be way too long or in depth for an 8a interview.

What are your thoughts on the climbing scene?
It's great. The people here have been super nice to us and everyone is really helpful. The local climbers have gone far out of their way to make our trip as good as possible. It's really different from the since everyone knows all the same routes. The routes have a lot more of an aura over here. They're historic and well known. In the there are only a few truly iconic routes, but here it seems like people are much better versed in climbing history.

Any thoughts about E-grades compared to the R, S, X suffixes?
Obviously I'm still learning E grades since I've only been here for a month [and spent much of the time in the rain]. I think the concept of E grades is really good, they do convey a lot of information. But I don't really know all that well. I still mentally convert everything here back to YDS.

R and X wouldn't really work at all over here [on Grit at least] since virtually every route would be considered R. They work well in the though because routes are generally taller and better protected.

Basically, a route is a route, it doesn't matter that much how you number it. Ultimately you still just have to look at the route and decide if it looks like something you can do.

Do you have any particular projects for the future? Any goals?

No particular projects for the future besides freeing Zodiac on El Cap [8b]. I tried it this fall and would like to finish it. Other than that I just have vague interests. I'd like to climb some limestone big walls. I'd like to sport climb on good Euro limestone. Just random places I'd like to go.

55. (87,60) DAILA OJEDA -81 ESP
#6 8a Lead: 11 090; Rollito Sharma 8b+, La via del kim 8b+,
dailaojeda.blogspot.com, Chillaz, Petzl, Prana

56. (88,43) LISA RANDS -75
The Mandala 8A+, Nutsa ss 8A+, #9 WC Vail

www.lisarands.com, The North Face, Evolv, Petzl, Voodoo

Lisa has been the most famous female climber since 2000 including several covers at the world leading magazines. In 2001, she was #2 in the Boulder WC in and in 2002, she won in . Over the years, Lisa has done world-class results in all climbing disciplines but it seems like high-ball bouldering is her speciality.

57. (74,23) CAROLINE CIAVALDINI -85 FRA
#4 WC Lead, #5 Euro C. Lead, World Youth C. 2002, 2003, 2004

58. (19,-) DIMITRY SHARFUTDINOV -86 RUS
#3 WC Boulder, #5 Euro C. Boulder, #7 WC Speed Moscow.

The Boulder World champion in 2008, he only participated in four out of seven events but he won two! Kind of impressive to combine this with being seventh in a Speed WC. In 2006, he was #3 in the Euro C. in Lead.

59. (71,-) YANA SHERESHNEVA -89 RUS
#9 WC Lead, #4 WC Lead Moscow, #9 Euro C. Boulder, #7 Euro C. Lead
5.10, Mammut

Yana has two times become World Youth Speed C.

60. (93,-) EVA LOPEZ -70 ESP
#9 8a Lead: 10 943; Sumazero 8c,
Every year, Eva makes some progress and it is very impressive to have her second 8c at 38. Proudly she says, No sponsor. Just give her a pair of shoes, a harness and a rope and you will get your company name promoted next to her name ;)

61. (70,-) YULIA ABRAMCHUK -82 RUS
#3 WC , #11 Euro C.

62. (96,-) GABOR SZEKELY -90 HUN
six 8c+, #27 Euro C. Lead
gaborszekely.blogspot.com, Petzl, La Sportiva

In May, when school ends, I'll return to Europe, more specifically Innsbruck, Austria for 2 months. While there I'll work on perfecting my German and of course building lots of endurance with my Shit Climber crew (Felipe, Jakob, Mario, Magnus, and many others). With this combination of strength and endurance I hope to be in 'sehr gut' shape when the World Cup circuit starts. The following are my climbing goals for 2009:
- To make finals in at least one lead World Cup, Climb 9a on rock, Onsight 8b and flash 8b+.

63. (44,54) SAID BELHAJ -81 SWE
#15 8a Lead: 12 225; El templo del café 9a, five 8bs, #1 Petzl Rock Trip,
saidbelhaj.com, Peak Performance, Petzl, Beal, Sportiva, Hilleberg, Verve, 8a climbing Inc. shareholder

Said is a true onsight climber that has amazed many climbers when he is pushing his way up to the anchor often skipping clips. The truth is that he is lacking maximum power compared to other 8b onsight climbers. His hardest boulder is 8A+ but he has onsighted more than 200 8as and harder. Said is also a professional musician with a speciality on; Didgeridoo, Yembe and Maroccan instruments.

64. (-,-) JEROME DE BOECK -86 BEL
#12 8a Lead: 12 297; five 8c+, El arqueo logico 8b OS, four 8A, #15 WC Lead Puurs, #18 WC Speed Imst
jeromedeboeck.com, Ocún, Rock Pillars, Roca, Mountain Hardware

65. (-,-) CECILE AVEZOU -71 FRA
#9 WC , #19 WC Lead

Cecile competed actively between 1993 and 1998. Out of four participations in Speed, she was second in the World C. in 1995 and in 1996 and 1998, she won the Euro C. in Speed. In 1997, she was #7 in the WC Lead Overall.

66. (-,-) RUSTAM GELMANOV -87 RUS
#5 WC , #6 Euro C. , Kinematix 9a

67. (-,-) MICHELE CAMINATI -85 ITA
#17 WC Boulder, The never ending story 8B+, two 8Bs,
E9, 5.10

Our primary goal is to build a grade function which will exactly tell us the grade of any climbing problem at any given time because we absolutely can not sleep otherwise. We will use the common notation N,Q,R, for the natural, rational and real numbers sets respectively. Let ∆ be the set of the rocks, and tϵR the time coordinate.

For every xϵ∆, tϵR we denote by A(x,t) the set of attempts of x up to time t, and by S(x,t) the set of sends of x up to time t.

 Axiom 1) ∆ is finite. (we all wish it was not so...),  Axiom 2) every send is also an attempt. (then S(x,t)⊆A(x,t) for every tϵR, xϵ∆),  Axiom 3) A(x,t) is finite for every xϵ∆, tϵR. (then so is S(x,t))

68. (51,-) SABINE BACHER -84 GBR
#13 8A Boulder: 8 811; Teamwork 8A, Brad Pit 7C+, 7c Flash, 8a+, #18 Euro C. Boulder, #25 WC Boulder,
sabinebacherclimbing.blogspot.com, E9, Kong, Tendon, Singing Rock

69. (-,-) GÉROME POUVREAU -83 FRA
#4 Euro C. , #6 WC

70. (50,-) JAMES PEARSON -85 GBR
Walk of Life E9/12, 8a+/8c, The Groove (No grade given as discrepancy of suggested grades are very big)
jamespearsonclimbing.com, The North Face, 5.10, Wild Country

James started to climb only in 2001. Two years later, at 15, he did 7C+ and 8a+. In 2008, he made several headlines put up some trad routes up to E12, Walk of life. Unfortunately, his impressive ascents were brutally downgraded. I have only tried to make a suggestion based on my feelings and also that I spent longer time than ever on these routes. Further more, I grade based on not using Crash Pads.

On his blog, he has been discussing how he has been using the E-onsight grade and the difficulty of using them, especially when it comes to allow crash pads. The reason for this is that the E-onsight grade measures also the danger of climbing a route. James is very open and brave with his thoughts, It is sometimes very difficult to suggest an E-grade and should the definition actually be that is an onsight grade?

71. (37,33) OLGA SHALAGINA -83 UKR
#4 WC , #8 WC Lead, #10 Euro C. Lead

72. (-,-) ANDRE DE FELICE -91
#9 8A : 10 965; Aslan 8B+, seven 8Bs,
Organic, 5.10

73. (-,-) DANIEL JUNG -83 GER
#10 8a Lead: 12 350; El Incorformista 9a, five 8c+,
jungdaniel.com, 5.10, Black Diamond, Chimpanzodrome

74. (-,-) MAYAN SMITH-GOBAT -79 NZL
#5 8a Lead: 11 110; The Giving Three ext. 8b+, five 8bs,

75. CHRISTIAN CORE 74 ITA
#16 WC , #10 Euro C. , Gioia

76. (77,50) CHRISTOPHE ZEHANI -74 FRA
#17 8a Lead: 12 215; three 8c+ FA, 8b OS, 8A

To be with my friends on a big overhang with a lot of hard routes and many two finger pockets are what I like the most in my climbing life. But it is not only that, I like to feel the north wind touch the rock where my projects are, see the sun come and go and all the time tell a good joke with my friends, when they climb. Christophe has 1 183 ascents registered in the 8a data base and the interesting thing is that the 35-year-old is making progress year by year.

77. (-,-) ANGELICA LIND -78 SWE
#7 WC , Dead hang OS, Targa Nervosa 7C+, #25 Euro C. Boulder

78. STÉFANIE CROUVIZIER -85 FRA
Rue Gamma 8c,
Famous for doing 15- back saltos after topping out.

79. TONI LAMPRECHT -71 GER
#32 8a Lead: 11 930; The devil, you and me 9a FA, Absoluter kontrollverlust 9a, Pontasaffair 8c DWS, #9 8Aa Combined, Assassin, monkey and man , 12 pitches 7c FA
5.10, Prana, Arcteryx, Black Diamond

Ignacio Sandoval Buron: In January I've been surfing in Fuerteventura. After a break of almost 1.5 years I started with hard bouldering again. We went on a trip to Albarracín, where I could do the first ascent of a problem that I count as one of my ten best ones: , 8A, a beautiful prow with powerful compression moves and technical footwork an absolutely classic. Unbelievable luck that no one did it before.
After I came back I worked almost three months on the "Assassin", a long-term project in the area Kochel. In May I climbed a bunch of hard routes and first ascents and went to for Psicobloc. Then, I kind of ran out of motivation and made a few weeks of time out. It was perfect timing, because in July, a very old climbing friend motivated me again for an alpine project that we started to bolt more than ten years before. The result was a nice 12 pitches long limestone test piece nothing special but a very good, technical old-school route in the 7c-range, bolted ground up. In August I drove with a group of friends to Verdon to get in shape again. We started to try a new route, but time was too short to finish it, but it is one of the most amazing lines there. End of August I was visiting for the second time in that year to give "Es Pontas" a go. But I soon found out that I was chanceless in the second part and concentrated on the first part. In October I bolted and solved some old hard projects at home, went back to to finish at least a variation to "Es Pontas". After another trip to Albarracín I started serious bouldering again in December. The year ended with an accident in Ticino, where I fell on my spine shit no route climbing until April, but bouldering without falling so now I'm feeling stronger again!

The work with social-emotional disabled kids is based on building a relationship. As long as you don't have any deeper relation to them it is impossible to teach them. What I do is a trick: I use sport (especially climbing) as a bridge to get in communication with these kids that lost the confidence in a school system but also in their abilities. But they can have success in sport or out in the wilderness. They
look up to you as someone they can rely on. When you manage to motivate them again to achieve something, you can start to teach them so that they will finish school and get a job one day. At least that's the ideal way. Sometimes in becomes true, sometimes not. But every problematic kid who is away from the streets can be counted as a success!

80. (-,-) KATJA VIDMAR -84 SLO
#6 WC , #5 Euro C.

81. (59, -) SILVIE RAJFOVA -89 CZE
#7 8Aa Combined; Zajeek, City No 7c+ OS, Cache 7C+, two 7B+ Flash, #16 Euro C. Boulder, #11 WC Boulder
Triop, Singing Rock,

Silvie Rajfova won the World Youth C. in 2003. She is one of the tallest women on the competition scene with her .

82. (94,-) MATHIEU BOUYOUD -89 FRA
#11 8a Lead: 12 338; Nuska 8c+, Hulkosaure 8b+ OS, #8 Euro Youth Cup Imst,
Millet, Jegrimpe.com

83. (85,44) EVGENY KRIVOSHEYTSEV -69 UKR
#18 8a Lead: 12 188; three 8c+, #3 WC Ice
Tendon, Cassin, 5.10,

Evgeny does it all and he has been the Ice World Champion, three times. In the 90-ies, it was really hard for him to get a Visa out of and sometimes he and his friends had to pass the border illegally. In in 1999, he was #2 after having arrived the same morning, sleeping just a few hours in the car before the qualification. He doesn't hold on to his secrets and recommends everyone to climb with music, do yoga, good warm up and stretching, "especially when you get older ;)", "sometimes I cant even do the moves on a route, then I put music on and I do the whole route right directly.

84. (-,-) JILL CHURCH -79
#4 8A : 9 255; five 7C+

85. (65,-) JACINDA HUNTER -78 USA
#7 8A Boulder: 8 958; Jitterbug perfume, #36 8a Lead; two 8bs,
, Organic, New England Ropes,

Jacinda is a mother of four children between 3 and 9. She and her husband are both working full time as registered nurses.

86. (-,-) SACHI ANMA -85 JPN
#1 Euro Youth Cup Kranj, #5 WC ,

87. (-,-) MANUEL ROMAIN -88 FRA
#3 Euro C. Lead, #17 WC Lead

88. (-,-) GÉROME POUVREAU -83 FRA
#6 WC , #4 Euro C.

89. (62, -) BERND ZANGERL -78 AUT
Anam cara ,

When it comes to bouldering, Bernd is only interested in finding the things that seem impossible, and then to climb them. Hes very low key and seldom goes public with what hes done. Its not like its a secret or anything, and hes happy to talk about it and share his experiences, he just doesnt broadcast everything to the world.

90. (-,-) KEVIN JORGESON -84 USA
The Fly 8B+, Butter Pumper 8A+, Feeding Franzy 8b, The Promise 8b trad, The Duel 8a+ (E10), The Groove 8b (E10)
www.kevinjorgeson.com, 5.10, Marmot, Sterling, Black Diamond

91. (39, -) ERIK LOPEZ -91 ESP
#31 8a Lead: 11 960; El Incorformista 9a(+), #8 8Aa Combined; two 8Bs, #14 Euro C. Lead, #22 Euro C. Boulder, #1 World Youth C.

92. (41,-) GARETH PARRY -73 UK
#10 WC Reunion Boulder, Conquistadore 8A+, The arête with the pocket 8A Flash, Attempt on Trango
gazparry.co.uk, 5.10, DMM, Entreprises, The North Face

93. (-,-) TOMOKA AGAWA -78 JPN
#5 8A : 9 000; Karamba 8A+, Akugeki 8A
Nike, Mad Rock,

94. (-,-) ANDREAS BARTH -85 GER
#10 8A : 10 950; Riot act 8B+, seven 8Bs, Longbow 8c
Evolv, Monkey

95. CHRISTIAN BINDHAMMER -76 GER
#11 8a : 10 920; two 8B+
Christian-bindhammer.de (German), Edelrid, Scarpa, Vaude

Christian was competing very actively between 1995, when he was #2 in the World Youth C. and 1998, he was #3 in the Euro C. in Lead and in 2003 he was #4 in the World C. in Lead. In total he has done five 9as and in the All Time High Combined 8a ranking, he is #7.

Most memborable climbing day? I guess it was the day when I did "Action Directe". That day I had a really good feeling, I looked out of the window in the morning and the wind was blowing at a really good temp. around 15 degree. So I went together with my girlfriend (now my wife;-) - no, no "Action" wasn't the reason to merry;-), there are a lot more;-)) to the Waldkopf. I warmed up at the "Slimline" then I tried once the moves to be well prepared. Then I did one go, I hit the pocket at the first jump perfect and with perfect friction I missed my personal key move from the pinch to the mono with left at the very top.

Ok, lets try again... but the next 5 tries I fall always at the first jump and now, my finger was completely cut and all over with blood. I thought, now it's over... the weather changed and it was a big storm just before the rain. Ok try it once more... and really, I hit the pocket and ... just did it, just in time, because one minute later the big rain started...a really last minute go...maybe with 150% motivation.

(86,-) JARMILLA TYRRIL -76 AUS
#20 8a lead: 10 299: three 8bs, FA on

Specific goals/plans for 2009? I've got few options for this year. I was invited to join team to climb K2 in July but before I'd like to finish some of my hard projects in Australia on the rock and one of them is the first female ascent of Punks in the Gym 8b+ in Arapiles .I'm feeling in top shape, Ive been training really hard for a last few months so Id like to focus on that and finish off Dungeon Master 8b in Nowra and Pooferator 8b+ in the Blue Mountains, which would also be the first female ascents of these routes. After my plan is to go to Europe and climb in and some hard sports routes. At the end of the year my plan is to go back to Antarctica with Christian Stangel to Tyree in , ...

96. (80,-) ALEXANDRA EYER -81 SUI
#10 WC , #13 Euro C. Lead, #4 WC Grindelwald

97. SONNIE TROTTER -79 CAN
Rhapsody el. 8c,
www.sonnietrotter.com, Patagonia, 5.10, Petzl, CH Aliens

Good stories, thoughts and discussions can be found the blog of this dedicated climber every week. If you want to know more, the best idea is to pay it a visit.

98. (-,-) ISAC CALDIERO -82
#12 8A : 10 880; Bling 8B+ FA, five 8Bs, 8a OS,
5.10, Flashed, Moon

99. (-,-) PETR RESCH -74 CZE
#10 8Aa Combined; two 8b OS, four 8A+ FA, PAD

100. (-,-) CARLO TRAVERSI -88
#12 8Aa Combined; Girl Talk 8c+, two 8B
climbingbum.blogspot.com, 5.10, Verve

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