31 October 2008

St. Victoire - Back to the future

St. Victoire - Back to the future: By Marco Troussier

Flavio Palla on Orbitor, 7c
L Martin on Tonsai, 7a+
C Roux on La Boule, 8a+

8 km east from Aix-en-Provence, take the D17 (small road)  to Le Tholonet, (east direction). You will find Parking place after le Tholonet  access to "Paroi du Rouge" and "Deux aiguille" and after the small village  Saint Antonin, the parking sector "Dessous de la vierge.

In 1997 there were rumors of new and steep walls in Sainte-Victoire, “les Dessous de ”. The standard had changed and a first 8b appeared quickly in a beautiful alcove. Right of that route there was another project. was suspected. Aubade was finally climbed by Gérôme Pouvreau, and 8c+ was given. BUT the direct finish has still to be climbed!

The bolting activity started again in an old place and gave a new winter sector on the west face. From 5+ to 8a, you can not find any big overhangs but lots of crimpy and steep walls. It’s a nice place to spend winter holidays. Aix en is not far, Calanques, Buoux or Chateauvert are very close too.

Climbing in Sainte-Victoire is like a new experience. A true,“back to the future”.  Forget the pumping routes with tufas, forget the big jugs of Rodellar, welcome to the world of “balance”.

If you have a wish for the new year, ask Santa Claus to give your fingers strength, good shoes and foot work.

Remember the eighties (lycra tights, Sportiva's Kendo), and make sure you know how to fight with low gravity…..

1 Les dessous de

East face, climb in the morning, reach from parking 4 (Collet de Saint Pierre)

Here you can find several routes (40) from different angles from slab to overhang.

Recommended climbs are:

The crack 6B

Le Bénitier 6C+

Tonsaï beach 7B

Divin Divan 7B

Résilience

La sociologie 7C+

Ti jack boucanné 8B

Twin Pinch 8B

Aubade (first part) 8C+

2 Les Deux aiguilles (more than a hundred routes, also multipitch)

Southface , reach from parking 2 (Les Deux aiguilles)

Recommended climbs are:

Located on the steepest wall.

6a

Messaline 6a

OVNI 6B+

Le Spleen 6B+

6B+

Snoopynette

Gassi touil 6c

Doyouspitingliche 6C+

Levitation 6C+

Inflation 7A

Voie du Bout 7A

Super Médius 7A+

Médius

8A+

3 Paroi du Rouge (40 routes)

South west face, reach from parking 1 (Plan Anchois), steep walls.

Recommended climbs are:

Spiderman 6a

L’ile de Pâques 6B

Les ailes du Délire

Luna

La fissure à talons 6C+

L’herbe à Stroumpfs 7A

Super mytho 7A+

Garatagul 7A+

Ca fend le gaz 7A+

Botox 7A+

Eloge de la fuite 7B

Septième ciel 7B+

Orbitor

Taille crayon

Babylon sister

Virus 7C+

Pete Bondurant 8a

Dommages collatéraux 8a

 

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