Vertical-Life
Climbing in Greece
CLIMBING IN By Stelios Kosmopoulos
A 6b in Volos
Tinos, Creativity 8b
SPORT CLIMBING
SOUTH GREECE-THE
Actually this is a huge area full of crags and some virgin ones that are waiting for the first bolt. The biggest crag there is the one of DIDIMA with 65 routes from 4b to 7c+.The crag is located at an altitude of so its also good for the summer months especially in the afternoon. This area was originally developed by Jim Titt, an English climber and later saw some additions by Greek climbers and the German Karsten Oelze. Nearest city: . Site: www.climbargolis.com
LAGADA
A very nice area with really good quality limestone crags. There are routes that cater for everyone from slabs to severe overhangs and roofs with tufas. The grades are up to 8b+. There are more than 60 routes. The scenery is very nice in a beautiful canyon and very near some villages of historical interest. Nearest city: Sparti.
CHATZOURI
If you like very steep power-endurance routes then this is the place to be. The 35 or so routes range from 6c+ to 8c. The area was developed by climbers from Patras. Due to its orientation its also good for the summer. Nearest city: Patras . Site: www.geocities.com/patrasclimbing/Chatzouri In the same site you can find information about all the crags in the area.
KLEISOURA
This is one of the newest sport climbing crags in and its ideal for those who seek the upper grades and put emphasis on power endurance. It is a huge overhanging crag for tufas galore. There are 22 routes up to this point with 8c being the hardest grade but there is space for many more. Near this crag there is the temple of multi-pitch climbing in , Varassova, with grades up to 8a+. Nearest city: Agrinio. Site: www.geocities.com/patrasclimbing/kleisoura
ATHENS-MAVROSOUVALA
This is the latest and most hardcore addition to the crags of the capital (). A big 40m high cave with stalactites promises Kalymnos-like conditions only half an hour from . World class climbers like Chris Sharma and Steve McClure have visited the crag and there are routes from 6b to 8c.
TRIKALA MOUZAKI
Another area truly worth a visit is this of Mouzaki.Very steep tufa climbing with routes drilled by the strong local climbers. Stamina is definitely the game here. The scenery is also nice and the local climbers will be more than happy to show you around. There are routes up to 8b+ but not so many for beginners. The new crag of Pili little gorge is the latest rage especially in the summer with 40 routes of all difficulties up to 8b+. There is even a very up-to-date climbing shop in Trikala, the nearest city. Site: www.xclimbingshop.com
VOLOS-PAOU VAVE
There are numerous crags in the area and a guidebook in Greek and English is coming out soon. This area is a very nice cave with stalactites and pockets near the sea. There are routes up to 8b. Nice for the summer months also. Nearest city: .
NESTOS CANYON-XANTHI
This area is not only full of sport climbing crags but also of stunning beauty. There are a lot of limestone caves and walls along this canyon with the most hardcore this of Korakospilia which has routes up to 8c+. Hard moves on a really steep terrain. The very strong local climbers have done an excellent job there. Nearest city: Xanthi
BOULDERING
PINOVO
This is a beautiful area with granite boulders at the foot of a high mountain. Nice views and cool problems on smooth granite. There are about 100 problems up to 8A+ but there is space for more. Nearest city: Aridea. Guidebook: OLYMPIC BLOCKS by Karsten Oelze.
KOMOTINI-MARONIA
Granite boulders spread over some hills next to the sea. The area is also of archeological interest as there was a famous ancient Greek kingdom here. The rocks need some cleaning as they are covered with lichen but it is surely worth a visit. There are around 100 problems there and space for more first ascends. Nearest city: Komotini. Guidebook: OLYMPIC BLOCKS by Karsten Oelze.
RIZOMA TRIKALA
This bouldering area is near Meteora, a famous multi-pitch climbing area. The bouldering here is on sandstone but the quality is not the best. Nevertheless, there are a lot of nice problems and some classic highballs. There are about 100 problems up to 7C. Nearest city: Trikala. Guidebook: OLYMPIC BLOCKS by Karsten Oelze.
The biggest bouldering area in and one of the biggest in . At least 20 square kilometers of granite boulders. There are already about 700 problems in various areas and the island has already seen visits from famous boulderers. The grades are up to 8B up to the moment. The conditions are excellent in winter months but not in the summer when its too warm and also crowded. Its easy to reach the island by ferry (4 hours) from . Guidebook: Bouldering by Karsten Oelze and Harald Roker.
KOS-KARDAMENA
This area is maybe not be the biggest but its got the best quality of granite and some 5 star problems plus that its only half an hour by ferry from KALYMNOS. There are about 100 problems up to 8A. There is also an airport on the island. This area is also ideal for winter bouldering. Guidebook: OLYMPIC BLOCKS by Karsten Oelze.