6 October 2008

Grading theory - Why inflation?

First Ascenders, like Andrada, Graham, Zangerl, Nicole etc are working hard, spending hours bolting, cleaning and brushing up new climbs. Once the FA is done they have to come up with a name and then the very hard part to suggest an accurate grade starts. If it is way below their maximum level and they do it first try, it is hard to suggest a grade so they are often assisted by their climbing partners. However, when they are alone working on a project, the best help for suggesting a grade is actually the Time. As all climbers are unique, the amount of time that has to be invested, differs from climbers with the same capacity.

If you put up many hard ascents the community will always find and start projecting the easy ones, the less Time consuming ones, the downgrades. However, the relatively hard ones, the Time consuming ones, the ones that should be upgraded, are seldom repeated and guys like Andrada, Woods, McClure do in fact not get the correct recognition that they as FA's should have had!

I mean if you go to a new area it is just logic that you first start working on the ones that suites your style. Once you have done it you make this as a benchmark grading for the ones you are putting up and repeating in your local area. This means that the bigger a new area is the better the chances to find a 'easy' one that suites your style and then this is copied when more boulder are put up. In places like Kalymnos and Magic Woods, some 50 % of the grades are subject to downgrading compared to what was originally suggested.

There are many 8c and 8c+ including 8B and 8B+ that never have been repeated as probably their style is perfect for the first ascenders. But they very seldom get upgraded as climbers do not brag about climbs that they could not do. 8a will make it possible to actually register hang-dogs/projects which mean that "brave and humble" First ascenders will get more recognition.

It should also been mentioned that 8a do not think grades are so important so wee need slash grades, i.e. 7c+/8a grading. Grades are important for motivation, to give credit to FA etc plus to make the correct choice warming up and onsighting. 

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