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Sport Climber of the year 2017 - Draft
  2017-12-01 00:00:00    
Here is a quick draft for Climber of 2017. Please comment to update the list.

1. Adam Ondra
2. Janja Garnbret
3. Alex Megos
4. Stefano Ghisolfi
5. Alex Puccio
6. Jan Hojer
7. Alexey Rubtsov
8. Anak Verhoeven
9. Angela Eiter
10. Tomoa Narasaki, James Webb, Shauna Coxsey, Ashima Shiraishi, Jongwon Chon, Margo Hayes, Jernej Kruder, Jakob Schubert, Romain Desgranges, Laura Rogara, Keita Watabe, Christof Rauch, Akiyo Noguchi, Stasa Gejo, Moho Nonaka, Jain Kim, Nalle Hukkataival, Charles Alber, Kokoro Fujii, Claire Buhrfeind, Domen Skofic, Mina Markovic, Jessica Pilz, Julia Chanouride, Molly Thompson-Smith, Keiichiro Korenaga, Chris Sharma, Ryuichi Murai, Alberto Rocasolano, Piotr Schab, Paul Robinson, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Daisuke Ichimiya, Lara Neumeier, Karoline Sinnhuber, Nina Williams, Katherine Choong, Jorge Verhoeven, David Graham, Daniel Woods, Jonathan Siegrist, Anna Stöhr, Sasha Digiulian, Dani Andrada, Nina Caprez, Mikaela Kiersch, Sean McColl, Melissa Le Neve, Ramon Julian Puigblanque, Giuliano Cameroni, Seb Bouin, Steve McClure, Gabri Moroni, Mathieu Bouyoud, Patxi Usobiaga, David Firnenburg, Toby Saxton, Daniel Fuertes,
OffLine pbla4024
  2017-12-01 11:32:44    
Margo Hayes and Angela Eiter should be in Top 3 with Adam. They moved the highest grade.
OffLine Philippe Vaucher
  2017-12-01 12:02:47    
Can you upload a photo of your university degree in statistics that you mentionned in here ?

Thanks in advance,
Philippe
OffLine Lars Mikander
  2017-12-01 12:04:32    
Jens, don't forget FA hero Jan Karies who did 238 pull-ups continuously during 34 minutes!
OffLine Thatis Odd
  2017-12-01 13:31:44    
I agree with pbla4024. How are Margo and Angela not right near the top?
Here's an idea: rather than making this totally subjective, why not use the 8a.nu data to come up with selection criteria. So the climber would have to have a scorecard. Maybe climber of the year has the:
a) most FA's x hardest climbs
b) most months where, based on just the scores from that month, they would be the world leader
c) they are the leader re: volume of climbs x difficulty
You could also have the FAist of the year (most FA's).
Iron tendons of the year (most registered climbs).
Pathfinder of the year (person who's FA's have been most repeated that year).
It would be fun to leverage the data of the site, as flawed as it might be, rather than just reduce it to one person's also flawed speculative opinion.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2017-12-01 14:13:23    
Thanks for the comments. This have been added, "As all previous years, we give more credit to the ones doing many ascents in different disciplines."

Sure it would be nice to make it less subjective but in reality it is impossible as we also include competitions. The idea with Athlete of the year in any sport is just to make it less objective rather than the points etc overall.

Margo has been moved higher up.
OffLine Dan Cannaday
  2017-12-01 17:40:42    
Can you please post the resume's of your top 10 and a justification as to why they are where they are? I cannot remember Janja doing anything remarkable on real rock (her comp year was incredible!) but was just her performance in the world cups worthy of #2 above people who literally changed the idea of what was possible on rock like Angy Eiter and Margo Hayes or Nalle? I mean yeah they didn't do comps (well Margo did a few) and were kinda one dimensional but the leaps they took forward in their disciplines I feel more would consider way ahead of your top 10.

Edit: A second look at your list and after #10 is a list of famous climbers and social media personalities and comp climbers that aren't really even worthy of being in the discussion while Oriane Bertone your 8a combined female ranking leader is not even mentioned. I mean while we're at it why not mention Fred Becky just as a postmortem lifetime achievement award consideration.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2017-12-01 19:06:55    
This is just a quick draft and it is one month left so you will have to wait for the "justification". We only mention climbers that are 13 years old so that is the reason why Oriane is not mentioned.

I agree with you when it comes to Margo and Angela but as the climber of the year gives more credit to multiple ascents and doing different disciplines, they will not make it to the top if they do not do more in December.

Please suggest your own list and the justification and we could publish it :)
OffLine Thatis Odd
  2017-12-01 21:35:38    
Jens,

I think you're missing a big opportunity.
YES, an athlete of the year is always subjective. BUT ...
sports fans love to use statistics to create an informed debate. It seems like 8a is perfectly positioned to provide this type of information. It's odd that you rely so much on poorly (in)formed opinions when you have the best data in the world at your fingertips.
OffLine The Whistleblower 5
  2017-12-01 22:40:43    
Vote in the poll below by December 31, 2017 and let us know who do YOU(!) think should be 8a.nu's "2017 Climber of the Year". Remember, every vote counts! The final result will be published in January 2018.

Link to the poll: https://goo.gl/8Je8Bt
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2017-12-01 23:04:10    
Sport fans can use the ranking system to see who is the best climber and boulder this year. But as climbing also relates to competitions and other disciplines and I do not think it is fair to use statistics to decide who is Climber of the year? In fact, do you know any other sport that uses statistics and combine this with points to decide athlete of the year?
OffLine stambecco
  2017-12-02 16:17:35    
I would call it "SPORT CLIMBER of the year", I think it is reasonable to distinguish what Honnold-Larcher-Villaniueva (etc etc) do from what Ondra-Ghisolfi (etc etc) do... great examples of different "faces" of the climbing world.

Than I totally agree with the fact that you should be more "careful" when proposing a list like this, or at least, before publishing, explaining us the precise criteria of the selection.

_best
OffLine El Scorpion
  2017-12-02 17:37:45    
I agree call it the 8a Climber of the Year or Sport Climber of the Year; otherwise Alex Honnold is the No. 1 for 2017. What he did was decades ahead of the community. The combination of power, fitness, technique, and absolute perfection of movement with no room for failure encompasses all the faucets of climbing covered by bouldering, sport, and competition. For me Angy is 8a climber of year for her absolutely groundbreak ascent of a hard 9b - she and Margo pushed female climbing into a new era. Am I right that only two men, Ondra and Sharma, have climbed a harder grade? That's such a big leap and so momentous that it beats out Adam's continue brilliance and determination
OffLine Dan Cannaday
  2017-12-03 04:24:45    
I also struggle to understand why one significant earth shattering achievement isn't enough. What is Lynn Hill known for? What is the one route associated with Wolfgang Gullich? I'm not saying they aren't amazing well rounded climbers with huge resumes but they are known for one big thing. Angy and Nalle both did one really really BIG thing this year that time may bear out as all time significant ascents that are remembered for decades. And I won't even bring up Alex Honald and his mind numbing ascent this fall because you don't like to discuss free soloing and I get that. So we won't talk about free solo ascents of iconic 3,000 foot rock faces using a huge variety of techniques.

I also think it pretty easy to assimilate competition performance into the ranking game. Pick a point value for 1st place, podium and finals and semifinals and insert that into their 8a scorecard and use it as one of their 10 climbs or 20 if doing combined. Seems simple enough. It would be silly to do this for every climber but for the 10-15 in the running for climber of the year shouldn't be too hard. Set up a simple scale where you take a climbers top 15 climbs/performances in 2017 3 must be boulder (if they have no ascents of a certain required type these get left blank and count as 0's), 3 must be sport, 3 must be competition, one must be trad and the rest can be whatever. Climber with the highest point total is your climber of the year. Takes all subjectivity out of it, primarily uses the awesome database you already have and the scoring ranking already in place highlighting and promoting your website, and shuts up most internet trolls because there is a simple formula in place to be referenced.

EDIT: Offer me compensation and I'll do it for you!
OffLine Federico Trespiernas
  2017-12-03 10:23:57    
They stood out especially in this unbearable 2017, clenched and hugged in the top podium drawer, Honnold, Eiter, Hukkataival, Hayes, Ondra, Megos, Gambert, Charles Albert and Narasaki.
  Distributed in any way, we must also mention Kruder, Webb, Shiraishi, Coxsey, Desgranges, Brad Gobright, Matt Bush, Sharma, Usobiaga, Ghisolfi, Beto Rocasolano, Toru Nakajima, Franco Cobson, and about twenty or thirty more than I am now unable to remember.
  We are almost here in 2018, please get rid of those archaic sequential lists that try the impossibility of objectifying the subjective!
OffLine Bojan
  2017-12-03 15:24:12    
Eiter on place 9!? Haha, this must be a joke.
Who and what stands out in 2017 in my opinion: outdoors Angie's 9b and Adam's 9c, on comps 9 world cup wins of Janja.
Honorable mentions goes to: Margo for first 9a+ (and second in iconic test piece), Anak for 9a+ FFA, Alex Puccio/Megos for quick sends of incredible number of hard boulders/routes and Romain for his first win of lead world cup at 35.

@Dan and Federico: Nalle's 9a was in 2016(!). In 2017 he 'only' climbed The Finnish line 8C+ which was repeated by Megos and 93kg/193cm/37yrs Toby Saxton, what was probably the most ignored achievement in 2017...
OffLine Jesse Weiner
  2017-12-03 22:52:21    
margo and angie should be topping that list... it should be obvious
OffLine Dan Cannaday
  2017-12-04 03:46:21    
My bad on Burden of Dreams! Good lookin out there Bojan!
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2017-12-04 08:53:07    
I agree that Eiter's 9b was the most impressive ascent in 2017 followed by Ondra's 9c and Margo's 9a+. However, the specific 8a climber of the year has since 2001 given more credit to the guys doing multiple ascents in multiple disciplines.

The 8a ranking game is based on the same idea, counting the Top-10 ascents.
OffLine Thatis Odd
  2017-12-04 09:17:17    
It's nice that you keep making up new criteria to justify your decision Jens.
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-12-04 19:50:01    
The usual silliness in cramming everything together.
At the very least you should have 8 categories...

Male/Female, Outdoors/Comps, Boulder/Lead

Alpinism, mountaineering, free-solo as a separate thing probably. Or many separate things.

Ignoring these different facets is miseducating your audience and doing the overall sport a disservice.

ps: also, hardly any point in doing the "ranking of the year" for comps... just look at the rankings on the IFSC website...
OffLine Steve
  2017-12-04 21:31:20    
"the specific 8a climber of the year has since 2001 given more credit to the guys doing multiple ascents in multiple disciplines"

This might be true. However, this is the 8a Sport Climber of the Year list. So it can only include the subset of sport climbing disciplines. Therefore, the list must start with Eiter, Ondra, Hayes. It's only logical.

Also, the proposed position number 5 (and maybe 6) is not really convincing in this list.
OffLine Jason Crank
  2017-12-05 18:33:20    
Just a concept, hear me out here. Why not drop plastic off your list of considerations. Those people already have their own top 10 list, its the IFSC Championship rankings. If you want to bring something meaningful to the table, rank the climbing thats not already ranked.