Forum: GLOBAL / News / 8C/8C+ (9A) traverse by Jorge Díaz-Rullo (18) Login in to contribute
8C/8C+ (9A) traverse by Jorge Díaz-Rullo (18)
  2017-11-10 00:00:00    
Jorge Díaz-Rullo has done the second ascent of Kaizen 8C/8C+ in Torrelodones, Spain. Beto Rocasolano did the FA and proposed 9A, without the new Jorge's beta including a rest that Jorge has found for his send making the boulder completly different. (C) Jaime Díaz. And writes on his scorecard:

"Oh my God I still can't believe it! Thanks for this high peak motivation and strength! Tired today and having tried it just two days the last year, got a magic try and I nailed it to send.. Ace Beto for the FA. Hard to grade though with some new beta and a new rest would be easier than when Beto did it. IMO will be in the 8C/8C+ range, the repeaters will confirm it. Super happy! Now keep going!
"


Needs to be mention that the traverse grade is approximately two grades easier than in the regular scale. For example an 8A traverse equals to a 7C.
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Mike Kimmel
  2017-11-10 21:10:01    
Slash grade + parenthesis. 
OffLine Ben Iseman
  2017-11-10 22:25:48    
here's an 8a innovation i would love to see: the death of the traverse grading scale! just give it the appropriate boulder grade or the appropriate route grade whichever makes more sense.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-11-11 07:25:50    
8a have worked hard for 15 years to stop traverse grading and we have also, prior to your comment, asked Jorge to change it on his scorecard.