24 October 2017

Angy's 9b story of the possibly #1 ground breaking ascent in the history of climbing!?

"After my ascent of „Hades, 9a“ in Nassereith/Imst I aimed to work on a harder project. I didn’t really focus on a route in the 9b range. However, the occasion came spontaneously. In October 2015 I first tried and completed the first pitch of „Planta de Shiva, 8c“. On the top I realised the multiple crimps of the second pitch. My husband Bernie encouraged me to check it out. Actually, I only tried it twice back then, but I understood immediately that I was passionated by the beauty and difficulty if this line and that the route suits perfect to my style. I managed to check out all the moves, but on some parts I wasn’t able to link more than two or three moves. In January 2016 Jakob Schubert did the second ascent and said that sending the route had been the fight of his life. These words really intimidated me and I started to question whether I’d chosen the right route. So I decided to focus on climbing the second part only, because the extension is hard enough. I don’t know what grade it would get, but it’s certainly a lot harder than anything I’ve ever climbed before. During the whole two years I returned seven times in total, neither for a week or when I managed to get away from work for longer then I went there for two weeks. The rest I trained at home in the similar intensity of the route. Joy and disappointment came along with me, as the whole process was plagued with frustration on some parts. Especially, when two holds broke off or when I got an inflammation on my pulley or ripped my hamstring. This October I climbed the second section and finally wanted to know what happens when I also add the first powerful pitch. Two days later I dared to give it a try and started from the bottom, but failed two times on the snap at the seventh quickdraw. On the same day, the 22 October, I did another attempt reached the anchor totally exhausted. I am sure the support of my husband Bernie and my father were one key to the success! I appreciate to have them." Red Bull Contentpool / Luka Fonda
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