22 October 2017

First ever female 9b by Angy Eiter

Angela Eiter, the very best female lead competition climber in the history having won three World Cups overall and four World Championships, has become the first woman to climb 9b. Today, Angy sent La Planta de Shiva 9b in Villanueva del Rosario, Spain. (c) Red Bull Contenpool/E. Holzknecht The route was FA'd by Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert did the second ascent. It should be noted that in regards the grade, it was Ondra's fifth 9b and he commented on his scorecard, "one of my hardest so far, pure endurance climbing with few rests, continuously hard with minimum of rests". Schubert said it was his hardest route so far when he did last year. She has worked it during several trips the last two years and she has also trained specifically at home in order to do it. The 154 cm tall has previously done four 9a's. Angy's husband, photographer Bernie Ruech, says that they plan to take pictures tomorrow and their plan was to keep silent until then. "It seems someone was faster :) Angy tried the route two years ago. She did the first pitch (8c) on her fourth try. She knew that the second pitch (mainly crimps) which is a pure power endurance route could suite her well. That’s why she tried the moves and after she told me she really loves that style and if there’s a 9b she wanted to try then, this is exactly what she’s looking for." More info to come...
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