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Pirmin Bertle's 9a+ story from Chile
  2017-10-03 00:00:00    

Le vent nous portera, 9a+, Socaire, Chile - Latin America's hardest route on 3600m from Pirmin Bertle on Vimeo.

OffLine Re_Si
  2017-10-06 19:11:01    
Oh boy! The catch of the landscape is amazing, but the talking of this guy is so weird I can't stand it... "touched the other world, beyond the normal"??? And - come on - 9a+ on 3600m? Has the guy repeated other 9a+ routes yet???
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2017-10-06 19:28:10    
Pirmin has done a dozen 9a to 9b. It might be that the route would have been 9a if it was at sea level but that is irrelevant.
OffLine Re_Si
  2017-10-06 20:56:46    
Hey, no worries! I don't want to insinuate that the guy is not capable of climbing so hard. He is just talking pretty weird things and his 9a to 9bs are mostly first ascents which are hardly repeated... ?
OffLine Gautier Ziefle
  2017-10-09 14:32:36    
I agree with Re_si. This is not the first time that I wondered about watching videos of Pirmin Bertle, especially those shot in South America. The guy makes nice videos and has a philosophy that I share in part. But when I compare the effort which it gives to see in its extreme ways to that which the best (Ondra, Megos, Sharma, Ghisolfi, Bouin etc.) provide in tracks of the same rating, doubts as to the reality of the announced quotations. Unless it is stronger than all these types combined ...
I do not climb in this level (8a boulder, 8a+ cliff max), but I know Tuzgle well for having spent several weeks there a little less than 10 years. There he would have opened an 8b on a well known boulder: https://vimeo.com/223866564
A passage I did not realize but that I tried after flashing the end (right line by which it leaves, 6c max in sit start). At the time I climbed into the 7b max, and I did not have the level to realize this sequence, but I would be happy to learn that I moved rather well in the first part of an 8b whose end is worth 6c, this part therefore having to assert, if it is agreed that the 6c does not add much to it, at least 8a ...
I also climbed to Socaire where is this 9a +. A beautiful place indeed. I did not try the line in question but Ruta de Cobre, another line in 9a opened by Pirmin, strangely reminds me of something but can not say it.
Add to that the theatrical impression that his climb gives, always comparing it with images of other climbers in exercises of the same ilk, allow me to doubt.
I have nothing against the guy, which I also appreciate the work of valorizing an idea of climbing turned to values other than performance alone. And I do not question his level completely. But I am afraid, if my doubts were based on now, that there is a form of deviation from the spirit of this activity not very different in the fund from that related to doping. Trust in the other, in his word, being the cement of an activity (for the outdoor) by definition free of referee or stopwatch.
The debate remains open.

Sorry for English, I used google translation.
OffLine Jason Crank
  2017-10-10 16:19:26    
I mean, Yuji and Dan established 9a and 9a+ in Borneo at nearly 4K meters, but they are also Yuji and DWoods.

I haven't climbed any of Pirmins routes or boulders, so I am in no position to cast doubts on his accomplishments. That said, I would be very interested to see some of the other heavy hitters go and repeat his routes. I hope they prove him right, and I appreciate that he's taking time to develop and bolt new routes and boulders for the community, regardless of how hard they are.
OffLine r1ddl3
  2017-10-11 09:48:19    
Ondra did one of this 9a's in Swizz and called it (if i remeber correctly) soft 9a, but 9a.
OffLine pbla4024
  2017-10-11 10:37:02    
Ondra flashed one of his 9a routes (Chromosome Y) and on-sighted the other (Torture physique).
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/chromosome-y.php
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/torture-physique.php
There is some description in french.