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Olympic candidates
  2017-09-11 00:00:00    
The Youth World Championship 2017 did show that the youngsters are well ahead of the seniors when it comes to Speed climbing. Most probably at least a dozen from Innsbruck will also make it to Tokyo 2020. Here is a provisional ranking list of the kids having the greatest chances. Note max three from one country can participate.

WC results marked as B and L: PR = Personal record in Speed
1. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN: #4 and #5 in last two L & B: PR 8:51
2. Sam Avezou FRA: #11 in B and the best Speed climber: PR 7.51
3. Meichi Narasaki JPN: #2 in B & #11 in L WC: PR 8.00
4. Kai Harada JPN: #5 in B and #18 in L: PR 8.08
5. Filip Schenk ITA: #22 in Lead: PR 9.65
6. Kai Ligthner USA: PR 8.03
7. Carlos Granja: PR 6.53
8. Keita Dohi JPN: PR 8.10

1. Ashima Shiraishi USA: #5 in Lead: PR 11.98
2. Claire Buhrfeind USA: #16 in Lead: PR 9.17
3. Elena Krasovskaia RUS: #33 in Boulder: PR 9.19
4. Margo Hayes USA: #6 in L and #6 in B: PR 13.29
5. Brooke Raboutou USA #10 in L and #9 in B: PR 11.00
6. Laura Rogara ITA: #6 in Lead: PR 13.34
7. Laura Stöckler AUT: #21 in Lead: PR 10.52
8. Iuliia Panteleva RUS: PR 9.82
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 12:30:10    
Sam is the world's best speed climber of the ones performing in all three disciplines.
OffLine Bojan
  2017-09-11 17:17:32    
Morozov (6.92) and Dorigatti (7.11) were also "performing all three disciplines" and were obviously faster than Sam (7.65) on the same comp:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=7051&cat=289

And here we go again: "world's best ___ climber"...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 18:07:49    
With the word performing I thought it meant performing on a certain level.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 18:52:11    
In regards performing, I have made it more clear based on my knowledge in English.

In the Olympics, the limit from one country is almost always three and this is what I have heard from IFSC as well as coaches, even if it has not yet been officially decided.
OffLine Nikolina Marinova
  2017-09-11 20:45:11    
Jens, please note - TWO competitors per country are allowed to take part in each gender into the Olympics - http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2017-08%20-%20Buenos%20Aires%202018%20-%20Qualification%20System%20-%20FINAL%20-%20Sport%20Climb....pdf

I also disagree with your statement: "best speed climber of the ones performing in all three disciplines is Sam Avezou", Bojan explained it why well.

I also bet against your prediction: "Most probably at least a dozen from Innsbruck will also make it to Tokyo 2020." This means 12 out of 20 competitors in Tokio will be among the winners / finalsits in Innsbruck. This is simply a speculation and there is no evidence in favor of this statement.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 20:55:55    
Sam Avezou is the fastest Speed climber in the world if we exclude the Speed specialists.

A dozen means 12 out of 40 climbers.

It might be two in Argentina but I have heard three in Tokyo. However, I will edit the news.
OffLine Nikolina Marinova
  2017-09-11 21:35:43    
Jens #1 - "best speed climber of the ones performing in all three disciplines is Sam Avezou"
Jens #2 - "Sam Avezou is the fastest Speed climber in the world if we exclude the Speed specialists."

There is a significant difference between #1 and #2 :) I agree with #2 but not with #1.

You are right, the quota of two per nation per gender is for Argentina and there is no published document for Tokio. So will see.