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Olympic candidates
  2017-09-11 00:00:00    
The Youth World Championship 2017 did show that the youngsters are well ahead of the seniors when it comes to Speed climbing. Most probably at least a dozen from Innsbruck will also make it to Tokyo 2020. Here is a provisional ranking list of the kids having the greatest chances. Note max three from one country can participate.

WC results marked as B and L: PR = Personal record in Speed
1. Yushiyuki Ogata JPN: #4 and #5 in last two L & B: PR 8:51
2. Sam Avezou FRA: #11 in B and the best Speed climber: PR 7.51
3. Meichi Narasaki JPN: #2 in B & #11 in L WC: PR 8.00
4. Kai Harada JPN: #5 in B and #18 in L: PR 8.08
5. Filip Schenk ITA: #22 in Lead: PR 9.65
6. Kai Ligthner USA: PR 8.03
7. Carlos Granja: PR 6.53
8. Keita Dohi JPN: PR 8.10

1. Ashima Shiraishi USA: #5 in Lead: PR 11.98
2. Claire Buhrfeind USA: #16 in Lead: PR 9.17
3. Elena Krasovskaia RUS: #33 in Boulder: PR 9.19
4. Margo Hayes USA: #6 in L and #6 in B: PR 13.29
5. Brooke Raboutou USA #10 in L and #9 in B: PR 11.00
6. Laura Rogara ITA: #6 in Lead: PR 13.34
7. Laura Stöckler AUT: #21 in Lead: PR 10.52
8. Iuliia Panteleva RUS: PR 9.82
OffLine The Whistleblower
  2017-09-11 11:59:07    
How can you state that Sam Avezou is the best Speed climber with PR 7.51 seconds even if we all can see that Carlos Granja's time is much better (PR 6.53 seconds)?
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 12:30:10    
Sam is the world's best speed climber of the ones performing in all three disciplines.
OnLine Bojan
  2017-09-11 17:17:32    
Morozov (6.92) and Dorigatti (7.11) were also "performing all three disciplines" and were obviously faster than Sam (7.65) on the same comp:
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!comp=7051&cat=289

And here we go again: "world's best ___ climber"...
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 18:07:49    
With the word performing I thought it meant performing on a certain level.
OffLine The Whistleblower
  2017-09-11 18:21:48    
Jens said "With the word performing I thought it meant performing on a certain level."

Would you kindly elaborate, Jens?


Jens said "Note max three from one country can participate."

Could you provide a direct link to an official document/source, where the above mentioned limitation is stated. Thank you.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 18:52:11    
In regards performing, I have made it more clear based on my knowledge in English.

In the Olympics, the limit from one country is almost always three and this is what I have heard from IFSC as well as coaches, even if it has not yet been officially decided.
OffLine The Whistleblower
  2017-09-11 20:43:32    
In other words, what you are saying is that Sam Avezou is the best Speed climber if we exclude all the faster climbers using completely made-up conditions. Who is the second, third, ..., tenth best Speed climber under these conditions then? Honestly, I have no idea.

I think that it is a little premature to state that "max three [climbers] from one country can participate" in the OG. You are presenting this as if it would be a fact while the truth seems to be that nothing has not been officially decided yet.
OffLine Nikolina Marinova
  2017-09-11 20:45:11    
Jens, please note - TWO competitors per country are allowed to take part in each gender into the Olympics - http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2017-08%20-%20Buenos%20Aires%202018%20-%20Qualification%20System%20-%20FINAL%20-%20Sport%20Climb....pdf

I also disagree with your statement: "best speed climber of the ones performing in all three disciplines is Sam Avezou", Bojan explained it why well.

I also bet against your prediction: "Most probably at least a dozen from Innsbruck will also make it to Tokyo 2020." This means 12 out of 20 competitors in Tokio will be among the winners / finalsits in Innsbruck. This is simply a speculation and there is no evidence in favor of this statement.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 20:55:55    
Sam Avezou is the fastest Speed climber in the world if we exclude the Speed specialists.

A dozen means 12 out of 40 climbers.

It might be two in Argentina but I have heard three in Tokyo. However, I will edit the news.
OffLine Nikolina Marinova
  2017-09-11 21:35:43    
Jens #1 - "best speed climber of the ones performing in all three disciplines is Sam Avezou"
Jens #2 - "Sam Avezou is the fastest Speed climber in the world if we exclude the Speed specialists."

There is a significant difference between #1 and #2 :) I agree with #2 but not with #1.

You are right, the quota of two per nation per gender is for Argentina and there is no published document for Tokio. So will see.