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Very impressive and promising Youth Worlds
  2017-09-12 00:00:00    
The Youth World Championship in Innsbruck was a huge success for the organizers, IFSC and competition climbing. The new route setting style mainly based on volumes and the great live streaming made it really fun to watch. Many of the youngsters showed that they are well ahead of the seniors in Speed and maybe a dozen of them will actually make it to Tokyo. It should also be mentioned that it seemed that not one climber was timed out based on the new 6 minute rule.

In regards the results, the team from Japan, USA and Russia totally dominated at the same time as the mid European countries got relatively poor results. In the last two YWC Japan did get one gold each and this year they got eight golds and a total of 24 medals! USA has gotten almost as nice of progress.

Improvements are possible when it comes to false start in Speed which create total anti-climax. One easy solution is to add like two seconds for a false start so some excitement can be kept. As it is called and defined as the best Combined climber, it would be better if the ranking for each disciplines were added instead of multiplied. As it stands, it is more important to be excellent in one or two disciplines instead of being very good in all three.

Things that have to be fixed is to show time in Lead and also to mark up the boulders so there are no more confusing misunderstandings how to top out. (c) Eddie Fowke - Collin Duffy tops out and wins Youth B was one of the highlights. Fast forward to 1:07:30 on the video.
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OffLine Bojan
  2017-09-11 11:43:42    
>It should also be mentioned that it seemed that not one climber was timed out based on the new 6 minute rule.

What about Ai Mori in female B? AFAIK, this was (should be) the only semis' top in all 6 categories (male or female), but no, as we now have this exciting(?) rule, she was timed out for few seconds.

The problem of timing in lead (esp. in senior comps) is not so much that some climbers run out of time (they are not monkeys trying to reach a banana on top of the wall -- they can adapt to rules, no matter how stupid they are), but that time has changed style/character of lead climbing as we now before (and still prevails on natural rock): routes are shorter, with bad rests, more powerful, dynamic, boulder-like, where ability to find and take advantage of rest (good endurance, ability to recover) lost it's former role.
OffLine Bojan
  2017-09-11 11:43:59    
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OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-11 14:20:21    
I have been watching climbing competitions for 25 years and often I have found them boring as in the old school routes, it is sometimes like watching robots and they rest a lot.

For me, the YWC was the most fun to watch competition I have ever seen. I think this had mainly to do with the new style of route setting.
OnLine rai
  2017-09-11 17:35:52    
The 6 minutes rules is a non sense, so is the new "circus" style. In fact I have not watched...
OffLine Ben Lepesant
  2017-09-11 19:11:43    
The best way to judge a rule/discipline/event/competition is to not watch it.
OffLine Martijn Pieterse
  2017-09-12 10:56:16    
Why are false starts possible in speed? There is a sensor that detects when they start climbing... And why does it have to be a climber vs climber? Why not just let everyone climb, and then let the fastest through? And if you want to do it like the 100m running, build 10 or so speed walls, and let them all climb at the same time.. 1v1 is stupid, well speed climbing in general is stupid. Don't teach the kids stupid formats... bah.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-12 13:59:18    
I totally agree that it would be rather stupid to let the guys running 100 meters, compete one to one. On the Olympic Speed wall, we should have at least four tracks.
OffLine TJ Vrag
  2017-09-12 16:24:37    
I agree with rai and Bojan. I have tried to watch the competition in Imst, but I couldn't find the charm of sport climbing in it. For years I was following the sport climbing competitions and I mostly enjoyed the calm atmosphere. This magic feeling has disappeared. The funny thing is that instead of this circus I now rather watch the videos taken during rock ascents.
Sport climbing was a unique sport and it had almost no competition among other sports. If somebody decided to climb, he/she mostly remained a climber. This new IFSC climbing is similar to other sports - nervous, stressful, industrial, ...
The future will show what does this mean. Anyhow, I believe this was the last IFSC competition I was watching.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-09-12 18:27:01    
I do not think the new 6 min rule had any impact for the boys. I do not think anybody was even close to use their 6 min.

Why did you not think it was fun to watch? For me it was the best competition ever with all these volumes and crazy moves.