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Ondra's power endurance campus boarding
  2017-08-03 00:00:00    
OffLine Re_Si
  2017-08-07 14:46:39    
Cushioning the impact of the double dynos doesn't look very healthy for his shoulders...
OnLine Opi Brey
  2017-08-07 16:42:18    
nothing around 9b+ is healthy for shoulders.... but there he is..
OffLine Re_Si
  2017-08-08 07:48:27    
That's right, but I think it is not neccessary to show such exercises. A lot of climbers practice the same and they are not climbing 9b+, but the - already - have injured shoulders. For me it is all abouts genetics: You can train what you want and will never climb 9b+, but injure yourself. On the other hand, you can train whatever (!) you want and - if genetics are right - you will climb very hard, it is not really a matter of smart training. As you can see in this video ;-)
OnLine Opi Brey
  2017-08-08 11:14:12    
''it is not neccessary to show such exercises. A lot of climbers practice the same and they are not climbing 9b+''
-About to show or not in the video: he advise about how hard is the erxecise, and recomended change the distance, or the erxecise to adapt your skills...
I want to watch how ondra train, and I don't want lose this opportunity because other regular climbers have no common sense.
-And about the exercise efficiency: It's quite obvious that it works for him.
(srry for my english)
OffLine Re_Si
  2017-08-10 08:12:08    
"I don't want lose this opportunity because other regular climbers have no common sense."
Absolutely no idea what you want to tell us with that...

Apart from the fact that your post is hard to understand, it seems you are a really "big fan" of A.O. ;-)
OffLine Árpi Zsigmond
  2017-08-10 16:24:36    
I think he judge better what is ok for his shoulder and what isn´t. He is climbing since he is walking on this planet, so I guess it isn´t only genetics (I don´t like, when people taking genetics as an excuse to reach something, I think is more up on your mind...) Furthermore I guess he does some antagonist and lots of stretching in order to keep his body healty.

Good advices for sure, but you need to adapt them to your body as he said.