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Garnbret win her third straight WC
  2017-07-30 00:00:00    
Janja Garnbret took another great victory in Briancon ahead of Anak Verhoeven and Jain Kim. Out of the 14 World Cups and Championships she has done, the 17 year old has made the podium all but once. Add to that, she is #2 in the Boulder World Cup after having won two events.
OnLine Kenneth Rasmussen
  2017-07-29 23:56:09    
perfect split this time
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-07-30 00:00:41    
If she was to get second in boulder and first in lead by the end of the season, would that be an all-time, all-gender record for climbing? I know both Ondra and Schubert managed to be first in lead and third in boulder in the same season...
OffLine Jan V'
  2017-07-30 10:20:54    
Great route setting again.
OffLine Une Poule
  2017-07-30 11:15:50    
I think that ondra already did it, winning both lead and bouldering worlcups the same year (2014 or 2015 i think) !
OffLine TJ Vrag
  2017-07-30 11:26:42    
The average climbing time in women gender was 3:48, for men it was 2:53. Each boulder climber has more time for one boulder even with the new rule. In the boulder finals each climber has 16 minutes to climb and to be supported by the fans. For lead climbers this time is now 5 times shorter. Men made an average of 29 and women 30 moves. Boulder climbers may do more moves on one boulder if they don't flash it.
Lead climbing was an endurance discipline. This speed-boulder combination has nothing to do with the endurance. We have been watching women climbing for 30:23 and men for 23:09.
All together was just a little more than a half of a football game.
If you don't like to watch sport climbing as endurance sport - this was an ideal route setting. If this suppose to be the lead climbing - it was a pure disaster. This competition in Briancon was a final proof that lead climbing as endurance sport is dead.
It would be an act of respect toward lead climbing to find a new name for this boulder-speed.
OnLine Gerard GrĂ cia Sala
  2017-07-30 12:14:38    
So routes such as Action Directe or First round first minute shouldn't be considered 'lead climbing'?
OffLine TJ Vrag
  2017-07-30 13:04:28    
Each serious sport has relatively exact definition of disciplines. For example 100 and 200 m running are sprints - almost pure speed - power. Disciplines from 400 - 1500 (3000) meters are a transition from good lactic acid tolerance to the good endurance. 5000 and longer disciplines are aerobic endurance disciplines.
Lead was a discipline based on long routes - that was the reason for 12 minutes limitation. This is an equivalent of 5000 m endurance run. With the change to 8 minutes the equivalent could be 3000 m run. This discipline is not clearly positioned in the athletics. Its's not real aerobic endurance like 5000 m. It already demands some speed and good tolerance to lactic acid.
Going under 6 minutes we are leaving the aerobic endurance - speed and power will prevail. Typical equivalents are 1500 m run with 4 minutes and 800 m run with 2:40 minutes. 800 m run is the shorter run not classified as sprint.
With climbing times less than 6 minutes we can't talk about endurance discipline. Any route which doesn't demand endurance should in my opinion not be named lead. That's "on rope boulder".
Lead was planed to be endurance sport. People not believing in attractiveness of climbing sport are shortening times to make the sport more attractive to non-climbers.
Why would anyone find certain sport attractive if even the people leading it don't believe in it?
The consequence of such thinking are 3 disciplines which are basically become the same. Speed is power - sprint. Boulder is multiple power - sprint and the "on rope boulder" is also power sprint. The endurance climbers can return to the rock or start thinking about a new association.
OffLine Steve
  2017-07-30 15:01:34    
Well, in lead as in other climbing disciplines the style of the route dictates the style of climbing. And under the 6-minutes rule the routes don't allow much resting anymore, which I think is alright. In general, high-end sport climbing routes on rock can easily take up to one hour. Just watch Ethan Pringle's ascent of Jumbo Love. You can see how much he rests during his ascent the route. One could argue that the switch from 8 to 6 minutes was too much and should have been introduced gradually, or that 6 is indeed to little and 6:30 would allow a more relaxed climbing style without resting. But all in all I believe that this was a positive rule change, or at least not as negative as you seem to see it.
OffLine Ingmar de Vries
  2017-07-30 18:42:28    
Aren't both long (like Jumbo Love) and shorter (like Action Direct) routes part of sport climbing?

I think with a bit more than a handful of world cups each year you have a great opportunity to make some shorter and some longer. I loved the world cups in Puurs in Belgium because it's a beast of a cave and the routes (especially when they cross diagonally over the wall) are super long! Don't know why it's not in the program this year...

And then why not just adjust the time-limit to the length of the route? Yesterday 6 minutes was enough, but in Puurs this could be 8 minutes.

But that's just my opinion :-) Have a great Sunday!
OffLine Herman Claeys
  2017-07-30 20:52:29    
Organising a world cup comp in Puurs (Klimax)takes a lot of resources(sponsors) and volunteers to make it happen. Someone involved in the actual organisation could also give info about the amount that is has to be paid to ifsc for getting into the word cup-circuit.

Crossing the whole Puurs/Klimax 2-cave with a limit of 8 or 9 minutes sounds great to me, and it would mixe up the comp with the "short" walls in France.

as for Briancon, so sad Anak went for clipping-in that last draw which probably was decisive for 1st or 2nd place.
OffLine J. Smith
  2017-07-30 23:18:19    
Some competitions has already in the past been "on rope boulders". But there were always also some real lead competitions. Now with the 6 minutes rule it's almost impossible to organize a serious lead competition in Puurs or Imst. It was already hard to reach the top of the wall with the 8 minutes rule.
If the organizers would have a chance to decide the time limit in accordance to their wall, the interest to organize the events could have bin stronger?
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-07-31 12:13:38    
"Going under 6 minutes we are leaving the aerobic endurance - speed and power will prevail. Typical equivalents are 1500 m run with 4 minutes and 800 m run with 2:40 minutes. 800 m run is the shorter run not classified as sprint.
With climbing times less than 6 minutes we can't talk about endurance discipline. Any route which doesn't demand endurance should in my opinion not be named lead. That's "on rope boulder""

An 8 minute effort is hardly "endurance" anyway. It's not a black/white threshold, one blurs into the other and it really depends on the setting anyway.
I agree that the 8 minute limit is much more sensible, simply because, given the length of the routes, it fits better with what is the typical pace of a climber.
I don't think that "testing of endurance" has to be the deciding factor in the decision.
OffLine J. Smith
  2017-07-31 12:48:40    
@Franz I also don't believe in decision based only on endurance. Longer route however means more freedom for route setter to set more interesting combinations and to separate the climbers in a way which don't humiliate the last positioned climber specially in the finals. It's a great difference if you are 8th with 10 or with 30 moves. In my opinion each finalist deserves not to be humiliated.
OffLine rai
  2017-07-31 13:19:08    
I was under the qwall last Saturday and it was a good show (also) thanks to the new team of route setters, most probably (my only personal opinion) in particular Alberto Gnerro who also does some route setting in Milan where his routes are really nice and interesting... That has saved the show in some ways as I must admit thet the 6' rule is going in the bad direction...
OnLine Bojan
  2017-07-31 13:39:17    
@Franz
>If she was to get second in boulder and first in lead by the end of the season, would that be an all-time, all-gender record for climbing?

No, in 2003 Sandrine Levet (France) won boulder and was second in lead. She is the only women so far to win both boulder and lead medals in the same season, and she did it twice (in 2001 she also won boulder and was third in a lead).

>I know both Ondra and Schubert managed to be first in lead and third in boulder in the same season...

Jakob have never done that. However, he and Adam are only males with both *medals* in the same season, both twice: Jakob in 2012 (3rd in both lead / boulder) and 2013 (2rd in both lead / boulder) and Adam in 2010 (3rd / 1st) and 2015 (1st / 3rd).

Adam is the only climber so far (male or female) who have titles both in lead (2009 and 2015) and boulder (2010).

Honourable mention goes to Akiyo Noguchi who won 8(!) medals (4 titles) in bouldering, but never won medal in lead (5th in 2008), probably due to the fact she only did few lead comps in a season. In 2005 being 16 old on her first international competition she won bronze in World Championship in Munich. 12 years later she is still active, still smiling and still have a chance to win a medal in the town where it all started (Munich final boulder world cup in few weeks) ;)
OffLine Franz the Stampede
  2017-07-31 13:57:00    
Bojan

thanks
OffLine pbla4024
  2017-07-31 18:37:43    
Alberto Gnerro route setting? Must be interesting to see, because when he climbs, he does like two moves per minute :-D
OffLine rai
  2017-08-03 18:09:26    
Hi Pter, if you come to Milan you can test on your own... ;-)