13 May 2017

The Project at Klättercentret is already abandoned

Klättercentret in Stockholm created The Project and invited several top climbers to go for the challenge topping out the "world's hardest route" getting Euro 5 000 or having the yearly record getting Euro 1 000. It was a great media success and Adam Ondra has the high point but in reality the route has already been abandoned. "As the route is permanent it will now for the first time in climbing history be possible to have a World record which everyone can try to beat. It will of course be possible to have all sorts of records based on countries, regions, cities, gender, age and so on." It just might be that Alex Megos, who often spends time in Stockholm, will project it a bit in order to get the Euro 1 000 but other than that the upper 3/4' will just collect dust. The idea was to start with 6A boulder moves and continue with a "mighty 8C at the top". Anybody can understand that doing an 8C boulder after having climbed a 30 meter progressively harder route for about 30 meters is impossible for human mankind, i.e the Euro 5 000 was well looked in the bank valve. Further more, it seems to be a route setting mistake as it did turn out to be too hard too early. Ondra's highpoint, which we must assume should be at least 9a involving at least an 8A+ boulder sequence, is about ten meters and 20 moves from the top! Very few gym climbers can actually do more than 15 moves. The best solution now should be to give Ondra his Euro 1 000 and either add many holds or to make a new, more progressive Project route that is at most 8a half way up. A female variation should also be created by adding holds, because as it stands now, the Project also discriminates female climbers.
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