3 May 2017

Eric Hörst warns for growth plate fractures

Eric Hörst, one of the most well-known trainers, who also has two hard core teenage son climbers, has published an article in regards - Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures". Here is part of his advice: "While highly fit and advanced youth climbers may be able to do a small amount of hangboard training and “laddering” up a campus board, they should not engage in any “double dyno” campus training nor weighted hangboard training during their growth spurt years. The most prudent coaches will allow no campus board training during the growth spurt years. During the period of highest growth velocity, time spent “limit bouldering” should be reduced to just 30 minutes once or twice per week. Climbing frequency should be limited to 2 to 4 days per week during the growth spurt years, with an immediate reduction in climbing time at the first sign of pain in the knuckles. Coaches should instruct on minimal use of the crimp grip, which is highly stressful on the middle (PIP) joint of the long fingers. All youth climbers should have an “off-season” during which they do little or no climbing for one to four months. Playing a second sport is strongly recommended through age 16, in order to develop a high physical IQ and diverse motor skills that will last a lifetime." Based on this knowledge, Eric Horst thinks that route setters for 10 - 16 year old competitors should avoid crimps. Possibly, IFSC should publically announce that in competitions, the route setters should, in fact, avoid crimps. This would have such an impact that the youngsters actually would train less on crimps in order to be prepared for such moves. Instead, the kids would focus more on open hand training, getting less growth plate fractures.
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