30 April 2017

Watabe and Coxsey win in Nanjing

1. Keita Watabe JPN - Shauna Coxey GBR 2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN - Janja Garnbret SLO 3. Jernej Kruder SLO - Miho Nonaka JPN Complete results Excellent final with great route setting but some incidents. In the first boulder, Keita reached the top with the first hand one second before timing out but the judge gave OK for having matched and controlled in just split seconds. Even the commentators were not sure as it had previously been said that you needed "control the final hold for three seconds". The picture shows Keita just before the big cross over move and then he matched with his left hand on top. Split seconds later he got the control by the judge. Based on that the clock actually shows 2 seconds, when it is between 1 and 2 seconds left, we can conclude that Keita actually just controlled it for few split seconds before he got the ok by the judge. Further more, as in Chongqing, one topped and matched on the last volume but this was not good enough as the top hold was just a small micro. The last major incidents, besides a minor starting mistake, was that the clock stopped for Mei Kotake when only 12 seconds remained. After a small pause she was given 2 min more but could not get close to the top.
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