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Megos & Le Neve win CWIF through rock climbing preperation
  2017-03-19 00:00:00    
Melissa Le Neve, who retired from the WC scene last year being #3 overall, prepared for the CWIF 2017 by doing her first 8B+ in Fontainebleau. That worked out pretty nice as she was the only to flash three problems. So why not go to Font again and try the first WC in Switzerland in three weeks?

Alex Megos, who won CWIF also in 2015, has been climbing just easy the last two months due to an inflammation. Three days ago, the German said on Instagram, "I'll be at the CWIF again this weekend but unfortunately won't be able to compete due to a finger injury."

He tried anyhow but after the semi he wrote, "Will see if I'll be able to climb tomorrow in semis. Depends how much my finger will be swollen..." In the semi, he did no good progress on the first three boulder but managed to do the last slab. In the final it was actually the same story again beside this time the slab was the third boulder. Runner-ups were Petra Klingler and Jongwon Chon and thirds were Michaela Tracy and Michael Piccolruaz.
OffLine George Kahn
  2017-03-19 23:57:36    
I think the comp showed what a poor decision IFSC made, when it dropped the 4+ rule for finals. Time after time, climbers walked away from their problems with 15 or 25 seconds left. They knew they didn't have time. In effect, that reduced the four minutes to around 3.5 minutes. It also eliminated a lot of drama. IFSC still has time to redraw the rules as they were last year.
OffLine Steve
  2017-03-20 02:16:28    
I totally agree. The new timing format just takes a lot of the fun away. How did they come up with that decision anyway? Big props to Melissa and Alex as well as the other finalists for their incredible performances!!
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-03-20 07:12:13    
I also totally agree. Imagine if this would have been the Olympic final with just two tops overall. One possibility to get more tops could be to run 2+2 minutes, meaning that after your first session you are allowed to watch, rest and learn from the others before you go for it again.
OffLine Mark Nauser
  2017-03-20 08:58:27    
It should be noted 8a has constantly argued for shorter climbing times and allegedly IFSC often merely adopts 8a suggestions. Gee, thanks, 8a! https://tinyurl.com/mseqymu
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-03-20 13:00:06    
We have not suggested any changes in regards the time in bouldering. We have argumented for shorter time in Lead and this has IFSC adopted several times. 
OffLine George Kahn
  2017-03-20 16:54:54    
Jens, here's your quote from the first article on 8a that announced the new time rule for bouldering: "In practice, this will of course make the final attempt more exciting for the spectators." A number of people disagreed with you in the comments section. Your first reply to them was: "Do you not think that counting down the clock from 10 to zero seconds while the boulderer is about to get to the final hold, also to include the seconds in control, will increase the drama? I mean, otherwise it is just about topping out...but now it is also about doing it within the time set."
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-03-20 17:30:37    
Why did you not include my overall statement?  "However, overall I did like the old rule more" I just tried to find something that could be positive but once again I did not suggest it and I do not like it.
OffLine George Kahn
  2017-03-20 19:41:03    
Of course if you take both sides -- as you did here -- you're never 'wrong.' But you're never right either.  Also, you did not disapprove in the article, which is what most people read.  Only in the comments, and only then after first supporting it. 
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-03-20 20:13:42    
Please read again - OVERALL I DID LIKE THE OLD RULE BETTER!
OffLine George Kahn
  2017-03-20 20:36:32    
Anyone who read your article would think you approved the new rule. You backtracked in the comments section -- but only again after saying it would create more drama. In reality, of course, the exact opposite was true.
OffLine Mark Nauser
  2017-03-20 22:42:54    
But you keep forgetting most of  the changes IFSC has done over the years are actually suggestions that Jens made several years before. So, any old conversations to remember? 
OffLine User Deactivated
  2017-03-22 00:02:33    
As Jens suggest absolutely everything under the sun then obviously any changes the IFSC make are going to be claimed by Jens. Every week he has a new and often contradictory suggestion.
OffLine Steve
  2017-03-22 00:50:22    
Well, anyway it would be really interesting to hear about why the ifsc decided for this new rule and for example didn't decide for 3.5+ minutes or similar.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-03-22 07:21:47    
Graeme A is from IFSC an he is the one that said I was wrong when I suggested to skip onsight in the Lead qualifications like ten years ago. It is kind of strange that he and IFSC do not communicate with the climbers explaining their reasons for the changes like the new 4 minutes rule. Anyone can see it was a complete disaster at CWIF!
OffLine User Deactivated
  2017-03-22 21:51:57    
No Jens, stop lying. I said that flash is not as fair as on-sight. You know that this is what I said and you have actually agreed with me since. So stop lying. I think that I communicated quite a lot with the athletes at the CWIF and I do at every WC that I attend (probably 8-10 every year). When did you last attend a World Cup Jens and listen to anyone that had an opinion. 2011 by my reckoning. You are the one that doesn't listen. The IFSC has an Athletes Commission. 8a has only Jens who doesn't listen to anyone even when they have shown that you are wrong. Change the record Jens.
OffLine George Kahn
  2017-03-22 22:47:24    
Graeme, any chance IFSC will rescind the new time rule for bouldering, before or during the 2017 WC season? i.e. reinstate the 4+ rule?
OffLine User Deactivated
  2017-03-22 22:59:04    
George - that is not for me to decide.
OnLine Jens Larssen
  2017-03-23 09:20:03    
Graeme: You argued many times towards my suggestion to change to flash in Lead. Your argument was that nobody of the athletes wanted it. Anyhow, you changed it and today I am sure that no athletes want to go back to onsight in the qualifications. Sometimes you have to think outside the box to develop our sport.