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Luzan Matyas - A unique climber with unique methods
  2017-03-15 00:00:00    
Luzan Matyas has since the beginning of 2014 been obsessed and only trained for doing Action Directe. In 2015, he tried it and got injured immediately and in 2016, he destroyed his shoe once working out a new toe-hook sequence. Nowadays, he is training 10 hours per day mainly just doing boulders on the Moonboard followed by a rest day. Video doing Moonboard's up to 8B.

"I just spend 10h in the gym and try to give it my best. What can I say, I love it. Honestly it's just getting through the pain but it's not so dramatic as it sounds now. It's fun, climbing with others and so."

His plan is to soon start working on the AD replica again. In May, the Romanian with 8b as personal best, plans to go back to Frankenjura, living dirt bag life under AD, preparing and waiting for the best conditions.

In regards the new beta, it is in the middle where he just before the crux, make a toe-hook over his head. He hangs there for some 15 seconds clipping, chalking and doing a very deep lock off, skipping the crux right mono, see right circle in the picture. "This is an easier sequence *IF* you have lock off strength and mobility." 8a interview from 2015
Click to Enlarge Picture
OffLine Louis Jones
  2017-03-16 13:56:11    
Injured immediately >> training 10 hours a day
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2017-03-16 17:30:31    
Most of us would be injured but in the case of Luzan, he has only been injured once since he started his very intensive training regime for AD.
OffLine Guido Princess
  2017-03-17 03:27:30    
.