/ Multiplication instead of Sum-up Combined
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Multiplication instead of Sum-up Combined
IFSC has decided that the results in the three results will be multiplied instead of summed-up. In practice this means that it is better to focus on getting one or two very good results instead of performing evenly. A climber who gets #5 in all three disciplines will most probably not qualify to the Top-6 final. Here are some examples of pretty bad results that even so will beat the even #5 climber, due to the multiplication.
5 * 5 * 5 = 125 (15 summed-up)
1 * 6 * 20 = 120 (27 summed-up)
1 * 11 * 11 = 121 (23 summed-up)
2 * 4 * 15 = 120 (21 summed-up)
In the final, the multiplication does not effect the overall results so much but the guy who is #2 in all three events will be beaten by the guy who is 1 - 1 - 6.
Using multiplication will of course also make it more hard to analyze the results during the competition as a calculator will be needed. It could also be noted that in all other Combined sport, the calculation is based on sum-up.
Another reality of the multiplication scoring is also that it is perfect for Adam Ondra and other top climbers as they do not need to train Speed. Adam can be last in in Speed in both the qualification and the final and win the Olympic gold anyhow. In fact, as most of his competitors will be training Speed and therefore loose some of their Lead and Boulder performance. It just might be his best strategy to skip Speed training to get the gold in Tokyo.
I like this decision. Its good for the sport to have the possibility to rely on your skills in two disciplines. It's absolutely dumb that the athletes have to change their skills for only one competition...