/ Boost your power in one second
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Boost your power in one second
The easiest way to boost your power is done through hyper-ventilation. Try it out during your next campus board session and you will get amazed. During climbing it works best coming out from a good rest, where you have focused on long and slow yoga breathing. This actually make you loose power so if there is a crux coming up, hyper-ventilate to reload and boost your power.
The second way to increase your power in one second is done through focusing on the hand you are not moving. If you are up for a dynamic move, it seems like your eager and focus on the next hold, make you loose some gripping hand power. Experiment to actually look at the holding hand and feel that you get stronger while trying to reach upwards. You can also ask your friends to remind you to focus on the gripping hand while climbing. It works best on pinches and side pulls. For closed crimps, for experts, you should simply ask your friend to remind you to focus on the thump closure to boost your power, during the next second.
Sounds silly for route climbing, might get a bump in power at the expense of totally maxing out and falling a few moves after the power move. Suppose it could work for a boulder problem. Still seems pretty counter intuitive.
More like. Get to the crux move - hyperventilate - get dizzy and light headed - fall like a bag of potatoes right before crux move...
Please read again. It works best coming out from a rest to boost your power.
Jens is right. IMO you can get more out of it by performing specific breathing exercises instead of just hyperventilating. If you are resting try 4 breaths in, 8 breaths out. When you need some power try 4 breaths in, 2 breaths out. Each breath should take the same amount of time but he volume of air changes depending on your in:out ratio. Super basic stuff, but it should convince you of the power of your breathing.