6 December 2016

One more 8C FA barefoot by Charles Albert

Charles Albert reports on Facebook that he has done one more 8C FA, La révolutionnaire in Fontainebleau. The 20-year-old stopped using shoes about four years ago. (c) Neil Hart "I'm the only one who tried it. It took me some 20 sessions during 1,5 year. There is like 8 moves and the climbing is pretty basic just compression with bad holds in a roof up to a big swing I think it's harder with shoes. It's just a weird pocket for the right foot and I don't think the shoes fits there. In February, he did a direct version of Le pied à coulisse 8C (+) which is said to be impossible with shoes. Even so, Charles suggested 8B+ for his version. In practice, we do not know what grade his last FA gets for the guys using shoes but it could actually be 8C+ or even harder. We will follow up with an article discussing the potential need to adjust some grades because the lines are more easily done barefoot.
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