Periodization

Most of the best climbers in the world do not do any periodization. It seems like the best tactics is just climbing as much as possible and having fun instead of following a strict scheme. However, for some of the competition climbers, the periodization thing seems to be working just fine.

Hi sune :-) have you looked at the training schedule on www.klatreforbund.dk - konkurrence - træning kører en lille tråd på forbundets side... http://www.klatreforbund.dk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=557&start=30&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight = - it is developed, using a well known plan. used by many powerlifters. also known as "smolov". it mostly is based on recrutting of muscle-fibers and neural adabtion. so this should only be done for 3 weeks, prior to a climbing trip or competition. it will stress your fingers/forarms a lot! and get a lot! of rest in between! this is only a short term circle. - you can also google for "Sheiko" and modify it to fit boulder/climbing drills. when using this the first time, when lifting weights - you often get 10 % gain in your max. lift ( 1 single lift at max load). - otherwise i have heard a lot about "the making of a rockprodigy" http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Training_and_Technique/The_Making_of_a_Rockprodigy__258.html - just found this as well http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Training_and_Technique/Finger_Back/Arm_Strength_18.html - i have begun to boulder 3-4 times a week(p-huset). and one rope day. 2 days of fun moves on hard holds - max 4-5 moves before falling. 1 day of training of movement/teknik - app. 3-3½meters of climbing on reletively good holds. and focus on how i move. and then... lots of eccentric weight training :-) focus on: pull-ups with ekstra weight, fingercurls with a bar, some deltoi exersizes to. 3 times a week minimum. like 5-10 sets of 4-6 reps. 2-3min. break in between. - If some one want to know how to get strong - the do what those who train specificly for this only - like olympian weightlifters! the fingers and forarms are muscles just like all the biceps and leg-muscles etc. and react just as well to big loads and a lot of them. - you can also look at "pavels GTG" theori (google). this is just not muscle building so well, but more strengh building by using huge wolume! - here is an hangboard rutine - well used/known to. http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto-simulator-train.htm

check http://climbingtraining.it/index.php  , it has a great layout of how to plan your weeks etc. depending on what you want to work.Shorter, more frequent and high intensity sessions where you don't climb to absolute exhaution is better than infrequent longer sessions.