Hey Doc! I`ve got a question: The pain is localisated in my right middelfinger. at the dorsal side my PIP. activ/passiv fully extension without pain. activ fully flexion without pain.passiv flexion with a bit pressure painful. bringing it in about 45°flexion is painful while pinching holds. If i add a bit rotation, for example when i tie my shoes the pain is more like stinging and good to locate. otherwise it is not so good to locate. after a hard day of climbing i can feel the pain really good. Thanks a lot.
I have pretty much the same issue but in my left hand, middle finger PIP. The injury developed from repeated dynos onto very thin crimps. I had an x-ray done, which showed no damage to the joint. There is some swelling around the left middle finger PIP. I can climb on it easy with no irritation (buddy taped for protection), but it is usually swollen. The only time it hurts is if I make a tight fist (more of tightness though), or if the finger gets a side/shear load such as hitting a fixed object. I have tried contrast baths, which provide some immediate relief but does not seem to provide long term relief. I've been climbing maybe once per month for the last 2-3 months, just easy stuff, in order to let the finger rest. I haven't seen too much improvement though. Is it safe to climb on, as long as I stick with easy stuff/open hand grips. I would appreciate any tips as well.
I love PIP injuries, can't shake them. Anyway this site popped up fairly recently -- http://climbinginjuries.com/ It has some vague info suggesting putty therapy / ice/heat therapy, but also has a mildly active forum that might be worth a try. The impression I have from my personal experience is that if you REALLY want a one time injury, and not a recurrent problem, don't climb till the pain is gone, plus a week or two. Either that or pay out of pocket to see a true finger / joint specialist who won't roll his eyes at you like a GP will. I can never bring myself to do either, and to date it has meant a year of almost getting back to baseline followed by fresh (re)injury.
HiThis sound like a tweak to the cruciate pulley of the flexor tendon- It will heal with the help of a couple of weeks cutting back to easy vertical climbing/no crimping, look at the treads above on this forum for therapy and also check out the 2010 yearbook for 8a that has an article on this and other finger problems Björn
painful PIP right hand middelfinger