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Two 9a's FAs in 75 min = World record
  2012-05-14 00:00:00    
Pirmin Bertle did open Chromosome X and Y in Charmey in 75 minutes making it his 6th and 7th 9a, more info.
OffLine Nathan Schulpen
  2012-05-14 16:24:47    
I really don't see the difference between: a) pre-clipping, lowering off and resting on the ground b) pre-clipping, down climbing an resting on the ground.
OffLine User Deactivated
  2012-05-14 16:41:36    
Fantastic performance man!
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2012-05-14 16:45:34    
This is how almost all hard ascents are done if the start is hard. The logic is that you have not weighted the rope. Some guys have taken this to an extreme actually doing it first with 3 - 5 pre-clipped and later practice the jojo down climb. I think it is OK if you do not untie and as long as it is just the first two quickdraws or like in Pirmin's case, the start of the route. However, of course I think it is better style to just clip all carabiners as you climb.
OffLine Nathan Schulpen
  2012-05-14 16:52:07    
I still don't see why this would be in any way harder or different the with lowering off. Besides, it's not because 'This is how almost all hard ascents are done if the start is hard' that it is right. For example at a certain point almost every cyclist was taking doping, did that make it 'right' or 'ethical?  To clarify: i am not against pre-clipping, just against pretending that it makes a difference to down climb in stead of lowering off. All this besides, great job anyways! 
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2012-05-14 17:16:00    
In the beginning some guys started to climb 20 cm to pre clip...and than it continued. I have seen a guy having like 11 pre clipped. But i understand your point and in the video Hard Grit, one UK trad climber actually claims he can start with pre clipped carabiners as he once jumped down... If you do not set up rules and recommendations, you will always see guys pushing it as long as they can bit by bit :)
OffLine rjtrials
  2012-05-14 19:23:26    
stick clipping a high first bolt, when the start is hard, makes the most sense and allows for the least amount of hardware in the rock and draws dangling from the rock. i dont understand why stickclipping is frowned upon by the Euros??
OffLine Gorazd Hren
  2012-05-14 22:20:55    
we say pussystick ...  pre-clipping is bad
OffLine Nathan Schulpen
  2012-05-15 10:28:50    
Then i prefer being a pussy to falling before the first/second bolt and spraining my ankle.The bolts are there for protection after all, and they shouldn't make up de difficulty of the climb.
OffLine Christoph Reichert
  2012-05-15 10:36:50    
Good performance! Apart from that, embarassing world record rubbish for the word record site...
OffLine Gorazd Hren
  2012-05-15 11:42:51    
Then why don't we just top-rope if it doesn't matter or make no difference !?
OffLine Nathan Schulpen
  2012-05-15 12:01:43    
Now you're just being intentionally thick. I didn't say that it makes no difference, I just said that the clipping shouldn't define the difficulty of the climb, because then it doesn't revolve around climbing anymore, but purely about making it difficult for ourselves, and then we could better just climb inside...
OffLine User Deactivated
  2012-05-15 13:05:42    
@Nathan: You're right, the bolts shouldn't define the difficulty but sometimes they do! Especially at endurance-routes the clipping can be indeed limiting. In case of clipping I like to quote Adam Ondra who said that preclipping should really only be done if there is a serious danger otherwise and concerning the many many videos I saw, the preclipping was never made for reasons of reducing danger but instead to make the climb easier...
OffLine Nathan Schulpen
  2012-05-15 13:15:07    
In this same discussion you could then state that skipping quickdraws, which Adam is rather famous for, make endurance routes easier. Anyway, i think the most important is to be honest with yourself.
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2012-05-15 13:53:08    
I hope you all understand that it has not been easy for 8a or myself to actually say to the top climbers that it is not OK to redpoint with several pre-clipped carabiners. Some years ago, this was much more spread out but now it is not so popular. I do think that 8a has had some impact making the climbing community use a better style and ethics.
OffLine Gorazd Hren
  2012-05-15 14:21:32    
Of course it makes it easier, why do you think he/people skip the q-draws (you don't have to stop and change the tempo of climbing,you skip it because it is hard to clip, less rope friction... ), but they are still climbing bottom-up, while in pre-clipping you climb a part of route on top-rope and that is not ok ...
OffLine Jens Larssen
  2012-05-15 14:24:59    
We can not turn back the clock but we can say that  one or two is OK for safety reasons.
OffLine User Deactivated
  2012-05-15 14:34:29    
@Nathan: Yes, of course, skipping makes it easier, no doubt! Bit since this is a way "back to nature" it is accepted.
OffLine zb
  2012-05-16 09:38:51    
The sloperpassage in the video looks great, also the one-finger-pocket-move...crazy!Did his feet slipping during the move?wow! have a nice day! and here is some stuff for the discussion: (in german, page 79, interview 2004) you can find good statements to the discussion (preclipping, difficulty, redpoint, lead). my opinion: to climb a route in toperope you save a lot of energy (clipping), so i believe that you can (theoretical) move harder, but it makes no difference in the grade because it isn`t important where you lose your lose it and that makes the grade...but maybe there existing some (dynamic sloper) lines where you are not able to clip...
OffLine Simon Montmory
  2012-05-16 14:06:31    
Whaouou! Bravo Pirmin, c'est vraiment dément!! Tu es vraiment fort et la video est exellente!! Les mouvs ont l'air vraiment classe! Ca donne envie de grimper!! Pour moi une des meilleures videos à regarder! A bientôt! Simon