15 November 2009

The dilemma of technical training

Debate/Jens: Technical training does often refer to balance, precision, having control, staying relaxed etc. Such training is often helpful in the short run but might be counter-productive in the long run! Hard sends and progress is about delivering outside the "comfort zone". The more you train within this box the harder it will be for you to move out of it. Being a trainer for 15 years, I instead focus on the opposite, creating adrenaline challenges to be technically tackled. In fact, all hard core climbers enjoy climbing outside the comfort box and are mainly self-taught. To be technically good inside the box is just simple, unimportant and boring.
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