23 October 2009

Redpoint strategy = Opposite to long term progress

Training/Jens: Most of the best climbers push themselves 100 % on each challenged climb. No thinking, just "a muerte" and so they train and become masters on how to survive in desperate situation. The approach for a fast personal redpoint record is the oposite. Think strategically and save your energy - Never get tired! 1. Hang-dog to the top and rest on every carbin 2. Work the sequences from the top and put Tick marks 3. Recruit muscles on crux 5 times before thinking - Impossible 4. Take long rest and memorize all sequences and where to rest
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