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Magic Line 8c+ trad by Lonnie Kauk  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureRock & Ice report that Lonnie Kauk has once again repeated his father's Magic Line in Yosemite, upgrading it to 8c+ as he placed all gear on lead.

Ron Kauk did the first ascent in 1996 and Lonnie did the first repeat in 2016, both with preplaced gear, i.e. pink point. (c) Lonnie's Insta.

The logic with the upgrade is basically that it is harder to climb a trad route placing the gear also because sometimes some of the holds are blocked. Back in the days when sport climbing was created, you were also supposed to place the quick draws on lead and as a matter of a fact, until like 15 years ago, this was for many the way to go for onsights. One of the reason why a trad 8c+ is considered as harder than a sport 8c+ is because of this.

Until now, no 9a trad route has been established and there exist only a couple 8c+ in the world, out of which two in Yosemite, including Beth Rodden's Meltdown.

 
 
Illya and Pirmin comments the 9a?  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureWe have previously reported that Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi has done the first repeat of Pirmin Bertle's Chromosome X in Chamery becoming the youngest person to have climbed 9a. "My first try of the grade. Perfect route. My beta is totally different from Pirmins."

Illya has also presented a video describing graphically how their two betas deviated. Pirmin has checked the video and is very impressed saying Illyas (160 cm) lower new sequence to the right is harder but the upper one to the left is easier.

- Chromosome X (soft 9a) is kind of an elimination and that is why we took it out of the topo. Using Illyas holds and sequences are possibly as hard as the original one and a very impressive ascent. We will see what future taller repeaters think of the grade if you keep left all the time?

The 13 year old has been very open with how he did and says he can not suggest a grade of his beta due to lack of experience of these grades.

- This trip was full of surprises. I did not expect this crag to be so beautiful and diverse. I also did not expect the routes and even parts of the routes to be so different by types of climbing. Based on this, I don’t understand why that area is still not popular because, in addition to everything that is mentioned above, there is huge amount of fabulous hiking tracks and landscapes. In addition to, there is a big range of grades, which is acceptable for family vacations.

Speaking of the route, it astonished me. Although I could do every move in the lower part, (using Pirmins beta), I couldn't combine it. Quite the same situation happened with the upper part.One move I could not do. So that is the reason why I made a totally different beta.

 
 
L'isola che non C'è 9a para David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg ha hecho la segunda extensión de la vía-bloque de Fred Nicole L'isola che non c'è 9a en Amden, encadenada por Fred en 2009 después de 8 días de trabajo. (c) Lars Scharl

"Fred no lo graduó, simplemente dijo que estaría en un escalón alrededor del noveno grado francés. David propone 9a para un 8A de bloque (que lo llama “Cavernicole”) a la entrada, más una travesía de séptimo grado hasta un mini cazo en el que reposas con un talón-punta seguido de un largo y físico 8A+ con una espectacular volada de pies al final. Empieza sentado en los crash pads y terminas con la cuerda a unos 10 metros del suelo." Más información en su Insta.

 
 
Spicy Dumpling 9a para Jonathan Siegrist  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Siegrist ha hecho su vigésimo noveno 9a, Spicy Dumpling en Yangshuo. "Bloque cambiante a la entrada y un final interminable sin ningún reposo. Encontrar la vía en condiciones aceptables es casi lo más difícil. (c) Tara Kerzner

En el ránking de 8a, Jonathan es 4º con Jumbo Love 9b entre sus máximas realizaciones.

 
 
Video blog nº1 de Ondra en EEUU  Facebook
 

 
 
A maze of death 8A+ para Katie Lamb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatie "Lamb" Ledecky ha hecho su tercer 8A+, A maze of death en Bishop en solo tres días. "Paso muy técnico con pies malos. Lo más difícil ha sido encontrar la secuencia de pies."

La joven de 21 años lleva esperando desde que tenía 8 y desde adolescente ha ganado varios campeonatos nacionales. Su próximo objetivo es Mandala.

 
 
Ondra contando su a vista en Just Do It 8c+  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra describe su ascensión a vista de Just Do It 8c+ en Smith Rocks en esta foto de Bernardo Giménez. Próximamente también lo veremos en vídeo.

"Hacía muchísimo viento, pero esperaba que en la base hiciese menos viento que desde el collado dónde se ve la vía. Me intentaba convencer de ello ya que las cintas no se movían con el viento (aunque bueno, en la parte de abajo la vía es vertical y las cintas no se mueven). el abad era bastante obvio que hacía mucho viento. Pero simplemente la probé." Historia completa en su Insta.

 
 
Classified 9a by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined World Championship in 2016, has done Classified 9a in Frankenjura. Pic from his Insta from last month when he did another 9a.

"Riding the sending wave after winning lead nationals. Feeling fit after Southern France and some training back in the gym. Nice fingery route on pockets and crimps with dynamic move to saving hold in the end. 9a in my opinion. Let's keep the ball rolling..."

 
 
Adam Ondra hace a vista Just Do It 8c+  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra publica en su Insta que ha hecho a vista la icónica Just Do it 8c+ en Smith Rocks. Fue equipada en 1989 por Alan Watts y JB Tribout hizo la FA en 1992.

Adam ha encadenado a vista 3 9a's, 19 8c+' y 61 8c's. Ningún escalador ha hecho a vista más de una docena de 8c o más.

 
 
Johnny Dawes (54) vuelve al 8b+  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLa leyenda británica Johnny Dawes vuelve a lo más alto después de un largo proceso de recuperación. Hace un año encadenó Abuela Carmen 8a en La Pedriza. Aquel día probó en top rope Inuït 8b+ solo por diversión y cómo le gustó tanto la vía, se lo fijó como objetivo para la próxima temporada. La semana pasada probó la vía en top rope para recordar los pasos, para más tarde encadenarla en su segundo pegue desde abajo. Más info en su Insta. ©Talo Martin

Conocido por desarrollar la escalada dinámica, en 1985 equipó Meltdown 9a de placa en Gales. En 1986 cayó en la última chapa cuando se le rompió un canto encadenando saliendo de la sección dura (vídeo de 1986 probando la vía con Jerry Moffat). Meltdown vió su primera ascensión a manos de James McHaffie en 2012 y ha sido repetida recientemente por Ignacio Mulero en 2018.

 
 
Chromosome X 9a para Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, que hizo su primer 8c cuando tenía 11 años, acaba de hacer su primer 9a, Chromosome X en Charmey. "Vía perfecta con un método totalmente distinto al de Pirmin."

Adam Ondra 13 años, 9 meses y 6 días cuando hizo su primer 9a. Illya es 5 días más joven, fijando así un nuevo récord. Ashima Shiraishi hizo su primer 9a a las 2 semanas de cumplir los 14. Más info próximamente.

 
 
Assassin 9a, el noveno 172 para Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra ha hecho al segundo pegue Assassin 9a, una vía de Drew Ruana en Smith Rocks. "Segunda ascensión, una locura de vía con buenos reposos entre medias." (c) Martin Kanurek

En total, el joven de 25 años tiene registradas 172 vías de 9a a 9c. Echad un vistazo a su Insta desde Smith Rocks. "Me encanta visitar nuevas zonas de escalada y estaba esperando este momento mucho tiempo. Es prácticamente la cuna de la escalada deportiva norteamericana." También ha conocido y halagado a Alan Watts, equipador de la vía y pionero en la escalada deportiva norteamericana que en su día fue muy criticado." Video - Pioneering Smith Rocks.

 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Jon Shen

Floflo Grunewald on OAK
A IC (8a) at Limeri.
 
Andreas Hanisch

Jungle Book stand 7c+,
Cresciano
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Ricardo Costa

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Kathrin Ziegler

Goldener Mittelweg
 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone Wow Prow
"Death camp into stomp
omp blues" 8a+ flash
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Calvin Wagner

Green Lantern (Low) 7b+
, HP 40
 
Gus Carter

Melted Softscream, Mita
ke, Japan
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Marina Jasic

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Search & Add Ascents
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Parking/Access fee, credit and # to keep landowners secure and happy  Facebook
The climbing community should be grateful to all landowners out there but it is seldom we can show our appreciation. Instead, sometimes a fraction of the climbers misbehave and make the landowners want to close down the crag. In some crags, the local club has agreed with the landowner to put up a box where you voluntary could pay a parking fee. Often this does not work especially as we do not bring cash so often and because such fee is anonymous.

Lysekils climbing club, on the west coast in Sweden, has made an agreement with two landowners, who has invited climbers to park on their property, to set up signs including a mobile number to pay a voluntary parking fee of Euro 2. While you pay the 2 Euros you can also include a personal message saying - Thank you! Have a nice day.

Getting two such messages per day during the summer will increase the chances of keeping the landowner secure and happy with the cars and climbing on his ground. Their visitors is not just anonymous but appreciating individuals from different countries. Another way to may the landowners happy could also be to just # your Insta with the crag name. Imagine how fun it could be to check this out for the land owners as well as making him proud.
 
Halls & Walls in Nürnberg 23-24/11  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe German Alpine Club organize Halls & Walls in Nürnberg 23-24/11 including 15 lectures and product presentations focusing indoor climbing. In total there are more than 120 exhibitors listed out of which many are producing climbing holds. On Friday there is also a party and on Saturday after work bouldering and a World Cup simulation.
 
"Caving" anchors should not be placed on routes  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureBased on an incident where the webbing of a quickdraw was cut after six sideway falls, the normal hanger was replaced with a Raumer "caving" anchor, see picture. The idea was to move out the quick draw so that the webbing should have less contact with the sharp granite just below the hanger.

Although such hanger can be used in a top anchor, creating less rope drag as the quick draw or the screw carabiner get perpendicular, this hanger is not designed for dynamic load. Further more, it is important that the load stays downwards. The "caving" hanger could put the quick draw in a bad position which can lead to ruptures, i.e. carabiner breakage.

Emanuele Pellizzari, who is selling Kinobi bolts etc since 15 years, explains the risk which also Raumer, the manufacture of the bolt, have confirmed.

"That hanger is not meant for climbing falls. It is meant for static load with a clear direction of force. In fact it keeps the biner perpendicular to the route, like in belays/rappels. It should be removed and replaced with a regular hanger. This is a typical case of mis-use by the equipper."​

What is your best advice if the local club do not want to chop the bolt and drill a new hole? What about replacing the having hanger with an anchor with two rings?
 
Talk to climbers with bad access behavior  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the 12 year old 8a Access flyers with advices including some specific instructions from The Access Fund in regards Human Waste.

As the climbing community is growing bigger, the number of access problems are increasing and although almost everyone behave respectful, it just takes some misbehaving to irritate the landowners etc. Spreading information and creating awareness are important but what is crucial is to actually talk directly to the climbers misbehaving. One way of making this easier, is to post signs at the crags meaning we only have to refer to something "official" while talking to the climbers with bad access behavior.
 
Access/Parking problems in Osp/Misja Pec  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureOsp/Misja Pec in Slovenia is #17 in the 8a crag data base with 25 871 ascents. During many years there have been access issues also related to parking although a new bigger was opened.

"Since the day it was opened we are witnessing illegal camping and disrespectful behavior from some members of our climbing tribe."

More info on the specific rules etc to follow on their website as well on Insta.
 
8.57 by Miho Nonaka in Speed  (3) Facebook
Miho Nonaka, who won the Bouldering World Cup in 2018, set a new Speed PB in the Asian Championship at 8.57. As a matter of a fact, three times she did go below nine seconds which can be compared to Janja Garnbet and Akiyo Noguchi who has never gone under 10 seconds in an IFSC event. Among the male, Keita Dohi was fastest at 7.18.

Winners of the Combined event were Meichi Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi. Interesting was also that Bouldering specialist Kokoro Fujii won in Lead.
 
Great progress for Asia  (3) Facebook
Over the years, Japan has become the most successful nation in the Lead and Boulder World Cup. In the Combined World Cup 2018, Japan male had four in Top-6 and the female three in Top-7. In male Bouldering, ten out of the Top-21 in the overall WC are from Japan.

Based on the Asian Championship, where as an example Japan did only get four male in Top-9, we can see that also other neighboring are coming strong. In the Combined YuFei Pan (18) from China was #3. It just might be that Asians will dominate in the future. South Korea has been one of the best countries in the world for a while but now also the youngsters from China and Hong Kong is knocking at the door. In a few years, it just might be that also these countries will advance high up in the rankings.

National Team Ranking Lead + Boulder in 2019
1. Japan 3 618
2. Slovenia 2 817
3. France 2 263
4. Austria 1 805
5. South Korea 1 313
Complete results
 
Save the climbing area "Zillergrund Wald"  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe bouldering area "Zillergrund Wald" in Tirol, Austria, is at risk! A nearby quarry site is planned to be expanded, threatening to destroy part of the popular climbing area. Local climbers have now started an online petition, trying to prevent this from happening. The granite boulders in Zillergrund are a unique climbing area. Through the petition, the initiators hope to be able to preserve this valuable area, its nature and beauty.
Here you can support the cause with your signature.

Moreover, in order to protest against the extension of the quarry, the initiators are organizing a meeting in the town of Brandberg on November 13th at 8:45am. Climbers, friends and supporters are welcome to join.
 
Penrose Step 8B+ and more by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 
Top-32 in Combined 2019 might have chances for the Olympics  Facebook
The 2019 competition season will finish with the Olympic Qualifying event in Toulouse 28/11 to 1/11 where the Top-20 in the Combined ranking will participate for six spots, excluding the seven that qualified during the World Championship in August in Japan. In practice this could mean that among the male, that even being ranked #32 you might be selected for the qualifying event as Japan could have eight in Top-32. In theory, if countries like Italy and Germany will fill their country quota in the World Championship, it might be good enough to be Top-35.

This means that the chances for the Speed specialists to compete in Toulouse is quite high. As their maximum score in the qualifying event is 1 * 20 * 20 = 400, this might be good enough for being Top-6 and to get a ticket for Tokyo.

It should be mentioned that excluding the Top-7 in the World Championship from participating in Toulouse could be consider not fair. In fact, Toulouse is the only event where you can "train" and prepare on the identical format as in Tokyo 2020. Detailed info how to qualify.
 

Leticia Perez
Alejandro Giménez

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