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Sleepwalker 8C+ FA by Jimmy Webb  (2) Facebook
 

Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he did the second ascent today.

 
 
Southern drawl 8B+ (C) para Taylor McNeill  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTaylor McNeill ha hecho la segunda ascensión del bloque que abrió James Webb Southern Drawl en Chattanooga y sugiere recotarlo a 8C.

"15 días durante los últimos 2 años. Mi bloque más duro hasta la fecha de largo. 100% mi estilo, no podría haber diseñado un bloque mejor para mi cuerpo. Lo más satisfactorio ha sido hacerlo en el último día del viaje. Tuve que conducir 8 horas inmediatamente después de hacerlo para pillar el avión. una verdadera batalla para hacer la segunda ascensión. Jimmy me apoya, y estoy seguro que el consenso lo dejara en v15/8C cuando se repita de nuevo. Un gran paso en mi carrera. ¡A POR LO SIGUIENTE!

Hay que mencionar que con anterioridad numerosas primeras ascensiones de James han sido objeto de recotación. Hace unos días, Daniel Woods publicó en Instagram que había hecho Squoze en Red Rocks.

"@jwebxl propuso 8B+(v14) pero está demasiado fuerte en este estilo... No soy malo en bloques de compresión pero tampoco es mi fuerte, pero siento que otras líneas de 8B+ de compresión no me han llevado una mierda de tiempo en comparación. Vamos a dejarlo en will leave it at 8B+/8C y otros podrán confirmar."

 
 
Bio-Affinity 8B para Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone ha hecho Bio-Affinity 8B en Rocklands, qué se trata de una extensión de War of Attrition 8A+, bloque que hizo hace 2 días. Ambos bloques fueron abiertos por Dave Graham en 2014. La joven de 13 años es ahora líder en el ranking de 8a. El vídeo es alucinante.

 
 
No Kapote Only 9A FA en Fontainebleau para el descalzo Charles Albert  Facebook
 

Grimper publica que Charles Albert ha hecho la FA de No Kapote only 9A en Fontainebleau. Conocido como "Mowgli", Charles dejó de usar pies de gato hace unos 5 años y uno de sus mayores problemas es que necesita descansar más para recuperar la piel en los dedos de los pies.

Aquí podéis ver un vídeo del año pasado donde estuvo muy cerca de hacerlo. El bloque es visible desde el minuto 7. Previamente ha encadenado cinco 8C's y un 8C+ en Fontainebleau, de los cuales están sin repetir la mayoría.

 
 
La Fabelita 8c by Nika Potapova (15)  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureNika Potapova has done her second 8c, La Fabelita in Santa Linya. The pic by Henning Wang is three years old when she first tried it being 12 years old.

"She worked on the route just for few days and fell several times on the last hard move on her last day. The hanger of the last bolt had fell of so she took some very long falls and hit the wall some times due to a bad belayer. Great will power to try hard."

Some months later she did her her first 8c. When she was 13 years old, Nika hung on the Zlagboard for some 2 min and 40 seconds, which is an un-official female world record.

 
 
8B and 8A+ flashes by Vadim Timonov  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureVadim Timonov has flashed his second 8B, PFC in Albarracin where he the day before flashed Zarzaparilla 8A+. One year ago he had a bad snow board accident where he ruptured the acromion joint that left him with two plates in the shoulder. He started training in May and then in September he was #25 in the Boulder WCH. More pics and training videos on his Insta.

 
 
Ondra en Hot Pork Sundae 8b en Indian Creek a vista de dron  Facebook
 

 
 
Le monde perdu 8a+ by Cathy Wagner (53)  (6) Facebook
 

Cathy Wagner has done her 149th 8a+, Le monde perdu in Destel. "An exceptional route defined by a very physical endurance effort (for me anyway) as you climb on the edge of a prow-like overhang. Took me 2 days to get the right beta and was totally wasted afterwards! Today, I managed to send it straight away after warming-up, thanks to the perfect conditions and Seb cheering me. Getting fit again after a bad cold which lasted 3 weeks feels good!

In total the 53 year old has done 703 routes 8a to 8b during the last 25 years. Interestingly, like one third she has done second go. Possibly it is time to raise the bar to 8b+ in 2019?

 
 
13 bloques a 8A+ para Max Bertone (11)  Facebook
 

Max Bertone, hermano pequeño de Oriane, empieza a acercarse a su nivel. En 2 semanas, el pequeño de 11 años ha hecho 13 bloques de 7C a 8A+, de los cuales hace al segundo pegue Proa 7C+ y Light Saber 8A+ en menos de 10 pegues. De hecho, este último bloque fue abierto por Dave Graham como 8B pero ha llegado hasta 8A. Ambos bloques aparecen en este vídeo.

 
 
The Master Key 8B para Oriane Bertone (13)  Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone ha hecho otros tres bloques duros en Rocklands; Sassy squash 8A, The arch 8A+ y The Master Key. "Bloque fantástico y escondido. Un paso duro. Encontré mi método al tercer día y resolví el problema. Muy contenta por esta ascensión."

En total, la joven de 13 años ha hecho 39 bloques de 8A a 8B+, de los cuales 19 han sido en los últimos 12 meses y es segunda en el ránking de 8a. Un 8B más y le quitará la corona a Isabelle Faus.

 
 
The Wheel of Fortune 8B para Isabelle Faus  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIsabelle Faus se ha subido por suhas
17º 8B, The Wheel of Fortune en Clear Creek Canyon y es primera en el ránking femenino de 8a. En total, la americana lleva 107 bloques de 8A a 8B+. Su próximo proyecto es Memory is a Parallax 8B+.

"Lo empecé a probar el año pasado. dos de los movimientos me llevaron como 10 días para poder hacerlos, para nada de mi estilo, un paso muy largo y otro dinámico. Viniendo de una lesión estaba usando este bloque como una manera para aprender a hacer movimientos largos. El año pasado me esforcé mucho para hacer a mi manera el último paso y entonces nos fuimos a Suiza al día siguiente.

Este año volví hasta el punto más alto alcanzado rápidamente y caía ahí alguna vez. Entonces ayer encontré una mejor manera para hacerlo rápidamente. Muy satisfactorio el hacer los movimientos fácilmente ya que el año pasado me parecía una locura. Lo siguiente es enlazar la parte de arriba e intentar unirlo."

 
 
8c+ y varios 8B FA paraToni Lamprecht (47)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureToni Lamprecht, legendario aperturista en cualquier disciplina; 9a de vía, 8C de bloque, 8c de largos y 8c de psicobloc, se ha apuntado suspensiones de 2018. en la foto podemos verle en el lance a dos manos de Seitensprung 8c en Kochel. A esto hay que añadir 8c+ y varios 8B FA. Con sus 88 kg y 1'87 m, stevia joven de 47 años debe ser el más activo de su quinta a nivel mundial. En total ha abierto más de 2.000 bloques y vías. Entrevista de 8a en 2009 - Instagram de 2019.

¿Qué es lo que más te impresiona de la nueva generación?
Lo más impresionante es el grandísimo número de escaladores fuertes y también de los casi desconocidos. Y por supuesto el top 5 son capaces de hacer tanto bloque como vías de largos y parecen ser maduros y muy abiertos. Ojalá tuviésemos políticos así a nivel mundial..

¿Cómo entrenas a día de hoy y cuáles son tus ambiciones para 2019?
Normalmente dos o tres veces por semana. Descanso si voy a esquiar o a surfear en verano. no he entrenado en los últimos años, solo he escalado en Roca ya que mi cuerpo cada vez necesita descansar más tiempo. En 2019 me gustaría probar en serio un proyecto de bloque (15m de techo) y trabajar en el FSK-Project, un posible noveno y viajar para esquiar.

 
 
A Muerte 9a para Jan Hojer  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJan Hojer, 3º en el Combinado de la Copa del Mundo de Innsbruck, ha hecho su segundo 9a, A Muerte en Siurana. El primero en su lista fue Action Directe en 2010. El alemán de 1'86 m y 78 kg de puro músculo también repitió Es Pontás 9b en Mallorca.

"Mi objetivo para 2019 es clasificarme para las Olimpiadas. si me clasificó en el Campeonato del Mundo pasaré un montón de tiempo libre escalando en roca. Ahora sólo quiero disfrutar antes de que la temporada empiece haciendo un puñado de días aquí en España."

¿En cuántas pruebas de la Copa del Mundo vas a participar este año?
Tantas como necesite para estar clasificado en Toulouse. Si se me da bien en las pruebas de Meiringen y Moscú no tendré que ir a China.

¿Estás entrenando mucho la Velocidad?
Intento entrenar velocidad una vez a la semana pero no he hecho ningún entrenamiento de piernas. creo que con una mejor coordinación y técnica puedo mejorar un montón. Me gustaría llegar al 6'7 antes de la Copa del Mundo.

 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone : Boven
"Jack of all trades" 8a
(second go)
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
Jon Shen

Floflo Grunewald on OAK
A IC (8a) at Limeri.
 
Ricardo Costa

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
 
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

El manso (sit) 7B ville
na
 
SEVDA GEYİK

Junimond 7c+ / Geyikbay
ırı
 
Jamie Leland

Public Enemy 7c+, Super
stition Mountains
 
Bram Honorez

souvenir 8A/+ Chironic
o
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Mike Gabl

Sami in "Les aneaux de
saturne" 7b / Quinson /
France
 
Bram Honorez

el varano, 7C+ Albarra
cin
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Incze Ábel

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Search & Add Ascents
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Kyra Condie and Zach Galla win US Combined  (4) Facebook
1. Kyra Condie - Zach Galla
2. Brooke Raboutou - Nathaniel Coleman
3. Natalia Grossman - Sean Bailay
4. Ashima Shiraishi - Collin Duffy
5. Margo Hayes - Drew Ruana

Kyra won actually all but Speed where she was #3 and should be put on the short list for one of the contenders for qualifying to Tokyo. Both Margo and Ashima suffer most from being like three second slower than best in Speed.

Among the male, Zach's victory must be considered as big surprise as he was #9 and #16 in the Youth World's last year. The 18 year did below 6.84 in three rounds which is at the highest standard for the non-Speed specialists. Complete results
 
The onsight level is not progressing  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureIn the ranking game, you get almost three grades bonus for an onsight in comparison to a redpoint. The best onsight climber in the world is Adam Ondra and for him the three steps formula works almost perfectly, as it does also for many climbers. However, in general, the onsight level has not have the same progress as the repoints the last year.

A good example of this is that Jakub Kováčik is #3 in the onsight game with 10 8a's, 4 8a+' and two 8b's. 8a has for many years said that everyone focusing on progress and especially juniors should take every opportunity to onsight, as Ondra did as a teenager. A good example of this is Jan Vopat (15) who is #6 in the onsight ranking game but only #37 overall.

Among the female it is more or less the same story and her Martina Harnisch sticks out being a superior #1 in the onsight ranking game at the same time she is #8 overall.
 
Mellow - New Climbing Media Collection  Facebook
Shawn Raboutou, Giuliano Cameroni, Jimmy Webb, Keenan Takahashi, Kevin Takashi Smith and Daniel Woods has started a youtube channel called Mellow.

"A climbing media collection for climbers by climbers. A media platform designed to get you hyped to go out and rage them rocks. Subscribe to our youtube channel and follow our journey."
 
The most repeated are the ones getting down graded  (5) Facebook
The best indicator to spot which routes and boulders are too soft for it's grade is to use statistics, i.e. the number of repeats and personal records. Here is a list of the most repated and almost all are actually subject of being down graded but the classical Action Directe which was put up as a 8c+/9a. It should be mentioned that the routes might be 9a now or in the future because of broken holds.

37 Era Vella
36 Estado Critico
26 Underground
25 Action Directe
20 La Fabela pa la Enmienda confirmed
19 Escltamasters
19 A Muerte
19 Seleccio Natural
17 La Cabane au Canada

In practice, you can search the 8a data base for any hard core grade and you will find that almost all the most repeated are the ones also being subject for a down grade. Climbers are, logically, like water finding the easiest way to set a personal best :)
 
Is barefoot Charles' 9A the hardest boulder in the world?  (9) Facebook
Charles Albert has done seven 8C to 9A boulder problems but what is unique is his barefoot style. If he could go beyond his ethics, using one shoe, there are probably many more hard core boulders to be done, which could be unrepeated for several years. It would take any climber several months to learn and develop their toe strength, bouldering shoe less, but for Charles it is just to lace up.

In regards his No Kpote Only FA in Fontainebleu, there are some ethics question to be answered before we could call it the hardest graded boulder in the world. The grade 9A suggest that when it comes to difficulty it can only be compared to Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams.

The hassle is that it seem more like a constructed problem and not a natural boulder as the start seem contrived. Instead of starting in the first logical sit start position, three traverse moves have been added to the left. This is quite often done in bouldering in order to increase the difficulty. Creating harder challenges are just great but for me, they should be called problems instead of boulders. Further more, the problem finishes with some chipped holds.

In route climbing, sit starts can be said to be the same constructed problems opting for a high grade. The dilemma is that we should not have the hardest and glorified routes and boulders as contrived chipped problems, as this could just popularize such ethics.

So for me, No Kpote Only is not the hardest graded boulder in the world although it is the hardest graded problem. On the other hand, Charles is possibly the first contender to set up the world's first 9A+ if he started to use one shoe!
 
The Free Solo competition is dead - Honnold won  (26) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFREE SOLO is the mind blowing documentary of Alex Honnold preparing and, without a rope, climbs the 900 meters Freerider 7c in Yosemite. Watching him training and doing the boulder crux was almost like watching a horror movie. He and his girlfriend come out as such nice people and just thinking about him falling 900 meters to the ground... On the other hand, there is probably a greater risk trying to summit K2...
Photograph © 2018 National Geographic Partners, LLC. All rights reserved.

Alex has recorded 961 climbs including three 8c+'. This is his comment of Freerider which he did 17-06-03."Solo! 3:56 on route. The end of an epic life dream. Such an experience. Logged it as a boulder problem - thanks 8a."

8a has a general policy to not publish solo or death potential climbs but we have often made exceptions for Alex Honnold, as his free solos are out there anyway. The very good thing with Freerider is that he has probably more or less killed the free solo genre. Sure some will continue to climb without a rope but the competition is over.
 
Lack of relationship between performance, chronic injuries and BMI  (1) Facebook
Gudmund Grønhaug, project leader at Østfold hospital trust and Flatanger pioneer, has recently published a study showing no associations of performance, chronic injuries and BMI. The study, which includes a web-based questionnaire with 667 climber, is one of the largest epidemiological studies on climbers so far and the only to assess chronic injuries alone.

Although the conclusion seems counter intuitive, the study gives a good explanation on the lack of relationship between performance, chronic injuries and BMI.

For a short-term goal, losing weight might seem to be a good idea to increase the strength to weight ratio. Still, loosing weight means to put a significant stress on the body by under-eating. In this period of undernourishment, the possibility for injuries and sickness or disease raises at the same time as the ability to train as hard as possible drops. In periods of malnutrition restitution is prolonged as well. And that’s for the short-term goals!

In the longer term it seems to be a far better idea to have a few kilos extra, live a happy life and train injury free rather than being skinny! The reason is simple; the body adapts to whatever stress we put to it and losing weight also means training with a lower resistance at each repetition.
The full paper is to be found here.
 
Robinson in beautiful Swiss up to 8B+  Facebook
 
40+ Sport Climber of 2018 - Draft  Facebook
1. Chuck Odette (63)
2. Cathy Wagner (53)
3. Toni Lamprecht (47)
4. Franz Fackler (48)
5. Dai Koyamada (42)
6. Iker Pou (41)
7. Maggie Odette (48)
8. Fabrizio Peri (47)
9. Israel Olcina (43)
10. Matteo Gambaro, Nicola Vonarburg, Johnny Dawes (54), Dino Lagni (50), Gareth Parry (45), Bernhard Schwaiger (43), Jędrzej Wilczyński (44), Duygu Haug (42), Katrin Grûndler (40)
 
IFSC need to clarify the bouldering "onsight" rule  (17) Facebook
Almost everyone knows that you are not allowed to look at the next boulder during comps although it is called flash. However, sometimes it is almost impossible to not have a glance of your next boulder once checking your personal boulder.

The big problem is that in the rules, there is no paragraph, saying that you are not allowed to look at other climbers trying your upcoming boulders. Most probably, a climber checking the other boulders, will be told to not do so by the judges but nevertheless, the important beta might just have been found.

What will happen if a climber neglects what the judge say and go around checking the other boulders during the Olympic qualifications? Based on the rules, it seems very hard for the judge to disqualify that person as he/she is not breaking any rules, beside fair play.

IFSC need to add a paragraph saying that bouldering is an onsight competition, as in Lead, where you are not allowed to see the other climbers trying your upcoming boulders.
 

lucas de jesus martin
trasnochando, 8b. El bovedon de Gandía

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