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"Climbing For All"  Facebook

Heritage 8B+ by Alex Puccio  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAlex Puccio has done her fifth 8B+, Heritage in Valle Bavona. (c) Robin O'Leary

Including also 26 8B's, Alex has the most impressive female tick list and a wide pyramid foundation for going for 8C. In 2014, she got the silver in the world championship and she won her last and only World Cup she did in 2018.

"Wow.... psyched! 1st try on my 6th or 7th day. I fell off the last move 3rd day on it 2 times and then for the next days I was struggling to stay on the wall due to the warmth and high humidity! Finally got a windy, but warm day. Didn’t even warm up. Last day best day!!!! :)

This boulder is way harder being under a certain height! Have to hop out of the toe hook for the first crux move to the left hand gastone and then the last move to the right hand just under the lip is WAY harder since for my height you can’t use the good left lower foot others use. Have to ball up and punch to the last hold. Was a huge crux for me!!!"

Two 8B FAs in Kochel by Toni Lamprecht (48)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureToni Lamprecht, legendary hard core FA-ionist in all disciplines; 9a routes, 8C boulders, 8c MPs and 8c DWS, has opened another two 8B's in Kochel, Jessica Jones and Tyler Durden.

"I worked the whole winter (2-3 sessions in the week, depends if I go skiing or not) on a really hard (8C?) roof project. So "Tyler Durden" is the exit of that project in combination with a 8a+-finish. I tried that 4 days, but I know the exit really well, because it is the finish of "Marla Singer" from 2004.

"Jessica Jones" I tried on and off for the last 2 years. It is a crazy short problem with 3 moves. Needed 20 sessions to figure out the right solution and another 3 days to combine it. There would be an 8B sit start to it. Next season? I guess, because the temperatures jumped over 20° now. I might go surfing or do some multipitch stuff near by."

Matt Fultz hace su primer 8C, Paint it Black  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMatt Fultz ha hecho su primer 8C, Paint it Black en RMNP. A sus 27 años, ha tenido un progreso continuo durante 10 años y es 7º en el ránking.

Vídeo en su Instagram, donde comenta: "No creo que sea lo más duro que haya escalado nunca, pero está genial saber dónde puede estar mi límite ahora."

Moritz Welt (17) vuela sobre Shangrila 8c+  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt ha encadenado Shangrila 8c+ en Frankenjura. (c) Lars Decker

¡Muy contento de hacer este gran clásico "Shangri-La" 8c+ hoy! Probé esta preciosidad una vez el verano pasado y ya no tuve oportunidad. La semana pasada di de nuevo con la secuencia y me pareció totalmente diferente. Muy contento de que hoy haya ido todo a la perfección.”

Harakiri 8a+ para Cathy Wagner (53)  Facebook

Cathy Wagner ha hecho su 8a+ número 153, Harakiri en Camp. "¡Una vía fantástica! .Cuanto más alto es el final más difícil se pone con un bloque desagradable."

Con 47 8a's, 13 8a+' y dos 8b's en los últimos 12 meses, esta jovencita de 53 años continúa en su mejor forma.

Best Climbing Shoes - La Sportiva  Facebook

Based on almost 3 000 unique votes, here are the result for - Best Climbing Shoes 2019? La Sportiva continues their domination and Scarpa gets another improved result. Five Ten drops some percentage again.

43 % La Sportiva (44 % last year)
28 % Scarpa (20)
10 % Five Ten (14)
07 % Others (7)
06 % Tenaya (6)
03 % Ocun (5)
03 % Boreal (5)

Felipe Camargo repite El Bon Combat 9b  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureClick to Enlarge PictureFelipe Camargo publica en su Instagram que ha encadenado El Bon Combat 9b en la Cova de l'ocell.

"Soñé con David Lama anoche, me desperté muy triste estuve pensando en él todo el día. Sin presión ni perspectiva por encadenar, al menos hoy. Tuve un primer intento en el que rompí un pie y me caí. En el siguiente pegue el viento paró y cuando llegue al reposo de rodilla por primera vez no sentí ninguna presión.

Intermezzo XY Gelöst 9a para el joven Nico Ferlitsch (17)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureNico Ferlitsch, ha hecho su segundo 9a en apenas dos meses con la ascensión de Intermezzo XY Gelöst en Plombergstein. "He probado "Intermezzo XY Gelöst" durante solo 4 días. Este 9a (el tercero que hago) es muy corto y tiene un paso de bloque a la entrada. Con eso resuelto la vía está prácticamente hecha."

Papichulo 9a+ es repetida por Seb Bouin y Kamil Ferenc  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureSeb Bouin y Kamil Ferenc han hecho Papichulo 9a+ en Oliana. Chris Sharma equipó en 2008 este monstruo de casi 50m y con 20 repeticiones es probablemente el 9a+ más repetido del mundo. Seb ya tenía en su libreta nueve 9a+ y dos 9b, y Kamil ocho 9a. El próximo proyecto para Seb es La Dura Dura 9b+. (c) William Barchelo - Seb Bouin

Daniel Woods bloca The Kingdom 8C (B+)  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods ha publicado en Instagram que ha repetido el bloque The Kingdom 8C (B+) en Brione, abierto por Carlo Traversi. Daniel lleva 28 bloques de 8C o más lo que le coloca en el número 1 del ránking histórico. En el ránking anual es segundo por detrás de Jimmy Webb. (c) Stefan Kuerzi

Angie Scarth-Johnson (14) resuelve Pedra, Paper, Tisora, su segundo 8c+  Facebook

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Scarth-Johnson, qué hizo su primer 8c+ a los 12 años, acaba de hacer su segundo, Pedra, Paper, Tisora, también en Margalef. La joven australiana que estudia desde casa pasará 6 semanas en España esta primavera como ya ha hecho otras veces.

"Me ha llevado un par de días pero ya la probé el año pasado. Tuve una lesión en un dedo y por eso no pude hacerla. Así que estoy súper contenta por haberla hecho ahora.

Bram Honorez

el varano, 7C+ Albarra
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
Frederico Gonçalves

Boulder: Abrigo de Ferr
o V12/8a+
Jamie Leland

Public Enemy 7c+, Super
stition Mountains
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
Andreas Hanisch

Kirk Windstein Stand 7c
+, Cresciano
Marketa Janosova

Stargate 7c, San Vito L
o Capo
Stefan Billmeier

Bamboozalled, V7 Laos/T
hakhek - a perfect bloc
, wonderful line, solid
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Fabian Gomiz Lopez

El manso (sit) 7B ville
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Gus Carter

Melted Softscream, Mita
ke, Japan
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi

Junimond 7c+
Kathrin Ziegler

Goldener Mittelweg
Marcelo Hugo

Durepox (7b+) - Gruta,
Caxias do Sul.
Search & Add Ascents
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Led-spotlights part of the friction problem solution  (9) Facebook
During Boulder World Cup finals, normally each boulder are lighten up by a spotlight just few minutes before the first person enters. Then the holds are in constant spotlight and get continuously warmed up for some 24 minutes. This means that the conditions deteriorate minute by minute which make the last climber, the winner of the semi, face the worst friction.

It should be noted that in the Olympic finals with eight climbers, the last climber face holds that have been in the spotlight for some 32 minutes. The simple solution to get more fair conditions during the finals is to use led-spotlights.
Routsetting game to support CAC  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureMarco Jubes: "I have developed a card game that in order to teach, learn and organize route setting for competitions and commercial gym. It is also possible to use the routesetting game to train with the team. Is a nice way to push your limits as a Routesetter and get very nice challenges.

My goal with this game is to share this idea with the setting community. I have already talked with a lot of expert Routesetters and they really love the game. Another thing important for me is with this game I will not get any benefit for the selling. I will give all the money to support CAC (Climbers Against Cancer). The price of the game for me cost around 5€ (design/ production and distribution) and I will sell it for 10€ which means around 5€ directly to CAC.

If you want to order in Europe you can write to info@punksetter.com, to order in the USA info@blocz.com. We are happy to have new distributors in all the countries, interested? just write us!"
Festival in Ikaria 15-17/6  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureDon’t miss the chance to visit Greece’s new favorite climbing destination that combines extraordinary bouldering and amazing sport climbing. Ikaria, the island holding the secret of longevity, has incredible natural beauty, with extraordinary, gigantic granite formations for bouldering and breathtaking marble walls for sport climbing. Ikaria is called “the Mountain in the Aegean Sea” and is a most welcome climbing discovery of our time. Visit the site here, and register for the festival here.
Competition and Friction  (19) Facebook
Mic Rathke has published some concern in regards competition fairness in bouldering in Routesetter anonymous. 8a has talked about this issue for twelve years as it seems more favorable to be #6 in the semi, meaning that you start first with better friction in the final.

"Competitions should be fair, but we (the climbing community) face an issue with fairness. Our issue at hand mostly deals with slopers, they get full of chalk, bodily fluids, skin, and most of all the original friction wears away like sandpaper. The difficulty (grade or rating) of a climb gets harder in the matter of one session. This is an issue for the later people that climb on the same holds in the same competition.

Our current resolution is a brush and chalk, however this does not resolve the issue of replacing the original grip of a hold. With the Olympics coming up, how can we resolve this issue before 2020?"

It should be noted that in the Olympics, there will be eight to the final, meaning the friction problem will be a bigger issue in Tokyo.
IFSC/IOC Olympic movement meeting  Facebook
Last week, IFSC had invited important stakeholders from the media, brands, gyms and experts to discuss the Olympic movement together with three representatives from IOC. You would think that this would mean three 60+ male but instead IOC did show up with three female 35-40 years old. Interesting is that in the end 8a was the only media present.

We did get explained how the bidding process for Tokyo and Paris have been taking place. In short, it seems IOC told IFSC that you can come with an application and you have best chances for being approved with one set of medal in Tokyo and possibly two sets in Paris.

From a general perspective, the indoor boom was discussed and the risk for getting climbing into the Olympics as well as if IFSC should take any stand in regards outdoor, ethics and the environment. The big change in competition format and IFSC competitions were also discussed and if it could be possible to qualify to the World Cups by getting points first in local and later regional competitions. There were not enough time to discuss how to make competition climbing more understandable and how to minimize the risk for strange thing to happen. However, 8a was asked to send in our thoughts.
Ondra Road to Tokyo #9 - Winning in Meiringen  Facebook
Way too hard female semi setting  (20) Facebook
The commentators in Moscow said that they did not think the route setters over cocked the female boulders they in a good way challenged the very best. I totally disagree. The purpose of the qualification and the semi final is not to create a nice challenge for the best climber. It is about getting the Top-20 and the Top-6 in a nice show for the spectators. Further more, these rounds should be fair for the athletes.

Route setting is super hard and it is amazing how often they are spot on. However, there will always be situation when the boulders were too hard. The best way to make them fun to watch and fair for the athletes is to add one more zone.
Moscow semi 10.00 - Sunday  Facebook
Moscow Speed Finals  Facebook
Arco Rock Star 2019 - Photo contest  Facebook

Kinga Brumbauer
kék ég,szikla,tenger...Kornél na és Jozsó,Brela,Horvátország

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