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Video blog nº1 de Ondra en EEUU  Facebook
 

 
 
A maze of death 8A+ para Katie Lamb  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatie "Lamb" Ledecky ha hecho su tercer 8A+, A maze of death en Bishop en solo tres días. "Paso muy técnico con pies malos. Lo más difícil ha sido encontrar la secuencia de pies."

La joven de 21 años lleva esperando desde que tenía 8 y desde adolescente ha ganado varios campeonatos nacionales. Su próximo objetivo es Mandala.

 
 
Ondra contando su a vista en Just Do It 8c+  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra describe su ascensión a vista de Just Do It 8c+ en Smith Rocks en esta foto de Bernardo Giménez. Próximamente también lo veremos en vídeo.

"Hacía muchísimo viento, pero esperaba que en la base hiciese menos viento que desde el collado dónde se ve la vía. Me intentaba convencer de ello ya que las cintas no se movían con el viento (aunque bueno, en la parte de abajo la vía es vertical y las cintas no se mueven). el abad era bastante obvio que hacía mucho viento. Pero simplemente la probé. But I just set off." Historia completa en su Insta.

 
 
Classified 9a by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined World Championship in 2016, has done Classified 9a in Frankenjura. Pic from his Insta from last month when he did another 9a.

"Riding the sending wave after winning lead nationals. Feeling fit after Southern France and some training back in the gym. Nice fingery route on pockets and crimps with dynamic move to saving hold in the end. 9a in my opinion. Let's keep the ball rolling..."

 
 
Adam Ondra hace a vista Just Do It 8c+  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra publica en su Insta que ha hecho a vista la icónica Just Do it 8c+ en Smith Rocks. Fue equipada en 1989 por Alan Watts y JB Tribout hizo la FA en 1992.

Adam ha encadenado a vista 3 9a's, 19 8c+' y 61 8c's. Ningún escalador ha hecho a vista más de una docena de 8c o más.

 
 
Johnny Dawes (54) vuelve al 8b+  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureLa leyenda británica Johnny Dawes vuelve a lo más alto después de un largo proceso de recuperación. Hace un año encadenó Abuela Carmen 8a en La Pedriza. Aquel día probó en top rope Inuït 8b+ solo por diversión y cómo le gustó tanto la vía, se lo fijó como objetivo para la próxima temporada. La semana pasada probó la vía en top rope para recordar los pasos, para más tarde encadenarla en su segundo pegue desde abajo. Más info en su Insta. ©Talo Martin

Conocido por desarrollar la escalada dinámica, en 1985 equipó Meltdown 9a de placa en Gales. En 1986 cayó en la última chapa cuando se le rompió un canto encadenando saliendo de la sección dura (vídeo de 1986 probando la vía con Jerry Moffat). Meltdown vió su primera ascensión a manos de James McHaffie en 2012 y ha sido repetida recientemente por Ignacio Mulero en 2018.

 
 
Chromosome X 9a para Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, que hizo su primer 8c cuando tenía 11 años, acaba de hacer su primer 9a, Chromosome X en Charmey. "Vía perfecta con un método totalmente distinto al de Pirmin."

Adam Ondra 13 años, 9 meses y 6 días cuando hizo su primer 9a. Illya es 5 días más joven, fijando así un nuevo récord. Ashima Shiraishi hizo su primer 9a a las 2 semanas de cumplir los 14. Más info próximamente.

 
 
Assassin 9a, el noveno 172 para Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra ha hecho al segundo pegue Assassin 9a, una vía de Drew Ruana en Smith Rocks. "Segunda ascensión, una locura de vía con buenos reposos entre medias." (c) Martin Kanurek

En total, el joven de 25 años tiene registradas 172 vías de 9a a 9c. Echad un vistazo a su Insta desde Smith Rocks. "Me encanta visitar nuevas zonas de escalada y estaba esperando este momento mucho tiempo. Es prácticamente la cuna de la escalada deportiva norteamericana." También ha conocido y halagado a Alan Watts, equipador de la vía y pionero en la escalada deportiva norteamericana que en su día fue muy criticado." Video - Pioneering Smith Rocks.

 
 
Corrida 8c para Jessica Pilz  Facebook
 

Jessica Pilz, la campeona del mundo de Dificultad, ha pasado unos días de mucho provecho en Osp/Misja Pec dónde ha hecho a vista Ptičja perspektiva 8a+ y al segundo pegue Corrida 8c. En el ranking de 8a, la joven de 21 años es tercera. Más información próximamente.

 
 
Carlo Traversi repite Meltdown 8c+ en Yosemite  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi ha hecho la segunda ascensión de la vía de Beth Rodden Meltdown 8c+ en Yosemite, que desde 2008 se postulaba como la vía de autoproteccion más difícil del mundo.

"Esta temporada ha venido todo de la mano. Un invierno seco ha barrido el valle esta semana con temperaturas muy frías. Ayer pude hacer la vía en mi tercer pegue del día, después de un par de patinazos raros después del paso duro durante los primeros pegues. He puesto todos los fisureros de primero. El primero lo puse, destrepé al suelo y volví a escalar."

Carlo ha tenido una carrera de bloquero en los que durante 2 años y hasta 2013, hizo cinco 8C. En 2015 hizo dos 9a y hace poco publicó en Insta que estaba cerca de repetir Meltdown después de 3 años probando la vía esporádicamente.

 
 
Viaje Astral 9a FA para Jonathan Guadalcázar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Guadalcázar ha hecho su tercer 9a en los últimos 12 meses, Viaje astral en Tarbena. Hastal 2016, solo había hecho un 8c+ y en los últimos dos años ya lleva cinco.

"40 metros de vía tensos, 20 primeros metros de 8c+ sin reposos con regletas pequeñas, y después una fisura en babaresa muy plana y sin poro acabando con un paso de regletas muy pequeñas."

 
 
Sharma Mont-Rebei Summer 2018  Facebook
 

 
Simon LEDOUIT

Babycat 7b au Goupil à
Narbonne
 
Marketa Janosova

Stargate 7c, San Vito L
o Capo
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
A+
 
Calvin Wagner

Green Lantern (Low) 7b+
, HP 40
 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Oriane Bertone (f)

Oriane Bertone Wow Prow
"Death camp into stomp
omp blues" 8a+ flash
 
Miska Izakovicova

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Katrin Gründler

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Markus Adamaszek

LAF-B2-L7, Fb 6c bloc,
Albarracín
 
Markus Adamaszek

Varanito, Fb 7a bloc, A
lbarracín
 
Bram Honorez

La persistencia de la m
emoria 8A+, chironico
 
Ricardo Costa

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Sebastian Maya

Momento es un boulder d
e los más bonitos de Mi
neral, un super clásico
que no te puedes perde
r!
 
Christian Welkhammer

Hard of Gold (fb7c+/8a)
, Rabennest
 
Search & Add Ascents
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Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Talk to climbers with bad access behavior  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the 12 year old 8a Access flyers with advices including some specific instructions from The Access Fund in regards Human Waste.

As the climbing community is growing bigger, the number of access problems are increasing and although almost everyone behave respectful, it just takes some misbehaving to irritate the landowners etc. Spreading information and creating awareness are important but what is crucial is to actually talk directly to the climbers misbehaving. One way of making this easier, is to post signs at the crags meaning we only have to refer to something "official" while talking to the climbers with bad access behavior.
 
Access/Parking problems in Osp/Misja Pec  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureOsp/Misja Pec in Slovenia is #17 in the 8a crag data base with 25 871 ascents. During many years there have been access issues also related to parking although a new bigger was opened.

"Since the day it was opened we are witnessing illegal camping and disrespectful behavior from some members of our climbing tribe."

More info on the specific rules etc to follow on their website as well on Insta.
 
8.57 by Miho Nonaka in Speed  (2) Facebook
Miho Nonaka, who won the Bouldering World Cup in 2018, set a new Speed PB in the Asian Championship at 8.57. As a matter of a fact, three times she did go below nine seconds which can be compared to Janja Garnbet and Akiyo Noguchi who has never gone under 10 seconds in an IFSC event. Among the male, Keita Dohi was fastest at 7.18.

Winners of the Combined event were Meichi Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi. Interesting was also that Bouldering specialist Kokoro Fujii won in Lead.
 
Great progress for Asia  (2) Facebook
Over the years, Japan has become the most successful nation in the Lead and Boulder World Cup. In the Combined World Cup 2018, Japan male had four in Top-6 and the female three in Top-7. In male Bouldering, ten out of the Top-21 in the overall WC are from Japan.

Based on the Asian Championship, where as an example Japan did only get four male in Top-9, we can see that also other neighboring are coming strong. In the Combined YuFei Pan (18) from China was #3. It just might be that Asians will dominate in the future. South Korea has been one of the best countries in the world for a while but now also the youngsters from China and Hong Kong is knocking at the door. In a few years, it just might be that also these countries will advance high up in the rankings.

National Team Ranking Lead + Boulder in 2019
1. Japan 3 618
2. Slovenia 2 817
3. France 2 263
4. Austria 1 805
5. South Korea 1 313
Complete results
 
Save the climbing area "Zillergrund Wald"  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe bouldering area "Zillergrund Wald" in Tirol, Austria, is at risk! A nearby quarry site is planned to be expanded, threatening to destroy part of the popular climbing area. Local climbers have now started an online petition, trying to prevent this from happening. The granite boulders in Zillergrund are a unique climbing area. Through the petition, the initiators hope to be able to preserve this valuable area, its nature and beauty.
Here you can support the cause with your signature.

Moreover, in order to protest against the extension of the quarry, the initiators are organizing a meeting in the town of Brandberg on November 13th at 8:45am. Climbers, friends and supporters are welcome to join.
 
Penrose Step 8B+ and more by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 
Top-32 in Combined 2019 might have chances for the Olympics  Facebook
The 2019 competition season will finish with the Olympic Qualifying event in Toulouse 28/11 to 1/11 where the Top-20 in the Combined ranking will participate for six spots, excluding the seven that qualified during the World Championship in August in Japan. In practice this could mean that among the male, that even being ranked #32 you might be selected for the qualifying event as Japan could have eight in Top-32. In theory, if countries like Italy and Germany will fill their country quota in the World Championship, it might be good enough to be Top-35.

This means that the chances for the Speed specialists to compete in Toulouse is quite high. As their maximum score in the qualifying event is 1 * 20 * 20 = 400, this might be good enough for being Top-6 and to get a ticket for Tokyo.

It should be mentioned that excluding the Top-7 in the World Championship from participating in Toulouse could be consider not fair. In fact, Toulouse is the only event where you can "train" and prepare on the identical format as in Tokyo 2020. Detailed info how to qualify.
 
Sharma competes at La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm  (3) Facebook
In 1996, being 15 years old, Chris Sharma was #2 in the World Lead Championship and the next year he won his first World Cup he entered. In 2001, he won the Bouldering WC in Munich.

During the La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm 24/11, Sharma will compete against some of the very boulderers in the world; Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Alex Megos, Rei Sugimoto and Alexey Rubtsov. If he not ends last, it must be considered sensational. What if this is a test for going for the Olympics 2020? IFSC will through a Tripartite Commission invite one male and female that have not made it through the qualification competitions.
 
Free Personalized Gym Workouts from Vertical-Life  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureWorkouts are now live in the Vertical-Life Climbing App! Spice up your gym sessions with free, customized, workouts. Lead and bouldering workouts are single-day training plans, designed by pro climbing coach Ingo Filzwieser.

Get started with 3 easy steps:
1. Choose your gym
2. Set a goal
3. Start Training

Download the App and start your free workout
 
Provisional WC Calendar 2019  (3) Facebook
IFSC has published the provisional Calendar for 2019 including 6 events in all three disciplines.

05/04 Meiringen SUI Boulder
13/04 Moscow RUS Boulder/Speed
27/04 Chonqing CHN Boulder/Speed
04/05 Wujinang CHN Boulder/Speed
18/05 Munich GER Boulder
07/06 Vail USA Boulder

05/07 Villars FRA Lead/Speed
11/07 Chamonix FRA Lead/Speed
19/07 Briancon FRA Lead
20/08 Tokyo JPN Combined World Championship
28/09 Kranj SLO Lead
19/10 Xiamen CHN Lead/Speed
26/10 Inzai JPN Lead
28/11 Toulouse FRA Olympic Qualification


As the most important event for the ones going for Tokyo 2020 are the world Championship and the Olympic qualification event, most probably, most will cherry pick which comps to focus at. It is not wise to travel around the globe almost non-stop for seven months without resting prior to the qualification in Toulouse.

From a logistic and cost point of view; skipping Vail, Xiamen and Inzai will make everything much easier at least for the Europeans. For the non-Europeans avoiding Kranj and Munich will make life easier.

On the other hand, as many of the best probably will not do all WCs, it is a golden opportunity to focus on the World Cup in one discipline giving low priority for the Olympics.

The twist is also that the Top-7 in the World Championship in Tokyo in August will qualify for the 2020. Most probably, these qualifiers will limit their competing during the autumn opening up for better results for the lower ranked.
 

Miguel espino miki
la mano de dios

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