Vertical-Life
113
ASCENTS
21 %
OS RATE
39
ROUTES IN DB
113
ASCENTS
21 %
OS RATE
39
ROUTES IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Lionheart (7c+) | Better than I thought it would be with consistency and no obscure blank, impossible sections. Mid crimpy 5.11 with a restful corner then a tricky roof reach and pull with hard to walk feet. Crux is pulling up the headwall. Rest to rest ~7B problem. The 2nd decent rest if you get the stance, before a final few move 5.11 section that is sequential beta and could stop an OS attempt. Then tall easier climbing on slightly lower quality jugs to finish. Unique line. |
3 Feb 2024
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| Better than I thought it would be with consistency and no obscure blank, impossible sections. Mid crimpy 5.11 with a restful corner then a tricky roof reach and pull with hard to walk feet. Crux is pulling up the headwall. Rest to rest ~7B problem. The 2nd decent rest if you get the stance, before a final few move 5.11 section that is sequential beta and could stop an OS attempt. Then tall easier climbing on slightly lower quality jugs to finish. Unique line. | ||||||
| Buzzard’s Craw (8a+) | Just right of One Eyed Willy. Took three quality sessions and a lot of effort. From left of the first bolt trend up and right from the ground to bolt 2 (5.10 crimping). Bolt 2 through 5 is a relentless power endurance run on delicate but powerful moves. Tricky footwork smears, physical squeezes on sidepulls, a heinous matched undercling move to an ear crimp, and a final stance to stab a sloping crimp to survive getting to the bigger holds. Felt like a long v8/9 from bolt 2-5. And then you still have to stand up in a tricky technical heel mantle with cryptic finger holds and rest on the mega hole before an intimidating fingerlock high step lock off move to a horizontal crack way up. Momentum helps. These two upper sections are what I consider the 12- high crux. After this, it is only 5.10 but steep and you still have to pull out the true roof at the top on hangboard like edges. Feels a little pumpy and shouldn’t be rushed. A step up in difficulty compared to the others at the crag, but stays true to the style. Former JL proj. |
2 May 2023
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| Just right of One Eyed Willy. Took three quality sessions and a lot of effort. From left of the first bolt trend up and right from the ground to bolt 2 (5.10 crimping). Bolt 2 through 5 is a relentless power endurance run on delicate but powerful moves. Tricky footwork smears, physical squeezes on sidepulls, a heinous matched undercling move to an ear crimp, and a final stance to stab a sloping crimp to survive getting to the bigger holds. Felt like a long v8/9 from bolt 2-5. And then you still have to stand up in a tricky technical heel mantle with cryptic finger holds and rest on the mega hole before an intimidating fingerlock high step lock off move to a horizontal crack way up. Momentum helps. These two upper sections are what I consider the 12- high crux. After this, it is only 5.10 but steep and you still have to pull out the true roof at the top on hangboard like edges. Feels a little pumpy and shouldn’t be rushed. A step up in difficulty compared to the others at the crag, but stays true to the style. Former JL proj. | ||||||
| Stem Cell (7a+) |
24 Apr 2023
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| One Eyed Willy (7c) | Great small holds and cool features for a solid 45 feet of climbing before a stand up ledge, then 25 more feet of bigger holds on steep blocky reaches (5.10-). Bottom is the hard part which feels like a few stacked v5-6s back to back. The long crux sequences are awesome and are as good as the other vert classics further down (Dark Necessities, etc). Glad I finally got on this thing. |
21 Mar 2023
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| Great small holds and cool features for a solid 45 feet of climbing before a stand up ledge, then 25 more feet of bigger holds on steep blocky reaches (5.10-). Bottom is the hard part which feels like a few stacked v5-6s back to back. The long crux sequences are awesome and are as good as the other vert classics further down (Dark Necessities, etc). Glad I finally got on this thing. | ||||||
| Hell or Highwater (7c+) |
16 Nov 2021
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| Rattlesnake Revival (7b+) | *retrolog |
4 Oct 2021
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| *retrolog
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| Mo Dirt (7b) | Heinous conditions/sublimated wall. Rainy day out w/ Matt W. Post T gettin hitched weekend |
4 Oct 2021
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| Heinous conditions/sublimated wall.
Rainy day out w/ Matt W. Post T gettin hitched weekend | ||||||
| Pussyfootin' Warpath (7b+) | So psyched! Snagged this one just before moving to Boulder. This climb is dope, and the boulder problems right before and right after the ledge rest are all-time fun. Probably as hard as LL or Dark Necessities... Thanks as always to AC for the beta, belay, and psych. |
9 Sep 2021
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| So psyched! Snagged this one just before moving to Boulder. This climb is dope, and the boulder problems right before and right after the ledge rest are all-time fun. Probably as hard as LL or Dark Necessities... Thanks as always to AC for the beta, belay, and psych. | ||||||
| Hell or Highwater (7c+) | King Line of Piney Bowl. Bolted several years back and I spread myself way to thin with Grad School, bolting to many projects, working in NoDak, growing fatter, weaker, lack of consistency. Such a struggle to regain fighting shape for this rig. Massive flooding after the heavy rains brought Piney up massive. Used the boat to ford the river and send. I knew I was gonna send come "Hell of Highwater". Thanks to Team Andrew for making the journey and the psyche! 1 Down, ~17 to go. |
5 May 2021
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| King Line of Piney Bowl. Bolted several years back and I spread myself way to thin with Grad School, bolting to many projects, working in NoDak, growing fatter, weaker, lack of consistency. Such a struggle to regain fighting shape for this rig. Massive flooding after the heavy rains brought Piney up massive. Used the boat to ford the river and send. I knew I was gonna send come "Hell of Highwater". Thanks to Team Andrew for making the journey and the psyche! 1 Down, ~17 to go. | ||||||
| Robert Bullet (6b+) |
20 Apr 2021
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| Target Practice (5b) |
20 Apr 2021
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| Hollow Point (6b+) | Oh yeah. So good! Trying to onsight the bullet wall going well. |
20 Apr 2021
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| Oh yeah. So good! Trying to onsight the bullet wall going well. | ||||||
| Red Dot (6a) |
20 Apr 2021
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| Full Metal Jacket (7a) | Backlog for 2019. Shame the beech tree giving this thing shade fell. Really nice boulder problem on tiny holds gets you to easy climbing. Worth trying if in the shade |
20 Apr 2021
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| Backlog for 2019. Shame the beech tree giving this thing shade fell. Really nice boulder problem on tiny holds gets you to easy climbing. Worth trying if in the shade | ||||||
| Homegrown Jihad (6c+) | Backlog for some day back in 2019 |
20 Apr 2021
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| Backlog for some day back in 2019 | ||||||
| Chicken Plucker (7a+) |
14 Nov 2020
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| Eagle Keagel (7a) |
14 Nov 2020
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| Stem Cell (7a+) | Very interesting corner |
14 Nov 2020
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| Very interesting corner | ||||||
| The Re-enforcer (7a+) |
9 Nov 2020
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| The Re-enforcer (7a+) |
7 Nov 2020
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