| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
| ||||||
| Outside Edge (5c) | A very good pitch. I don't think it gets climbed much, though, due to its location on the big ledge. Easier than it looks due to the good footholds in and beside the crack. Seems like the best approach is to use the start of V-stream to the chain station and then move up to the trees. |
8 Sep 2023
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| A very good pitch. I don't think it gets climbed much, though, due to its location on the big ledge. Easier than it looks due to the good footholds in and beside the crack. Seems like the best approach is to use the start of V-stream to the chain station and then move up to the trees. | ||||||
| Into the Great Wide Open (6a) | An odd traversing line across the top of the crag, but surprisingly fun. Techy face moves! |
8 Sep 2023
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| An odd traversing line across the top of the crag, but surprisingly fun. Techy face moves! | ||||||
| The 10b Corner (6a) | The corner to the right of Swampton. Short, but very bouldery, which makes it feel like good value. The pro is excellent, which makes trying hard at the top feel sensible. If you link this into the upper 5.9 hand crack, it's even better. |
8 Sep 2023
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| The corner to the right of Swampton. Short, but very bouldery, which makes it feel like good value. The pro is excellent, which makes trying hard at the top feel sensible. If you link this into the upper 5.9 hand crack, it's even better. | ||||||
| Hold My Beers (6b) | The bouldery face right of the Swampton groove. I did not flash it, but the sunny, hot rock wasn't making it feel very secure. The single bolt right of the upper 5.9 hand crack is a questionable finish. Finishing up the crack makes more sense. |
8 Sep 2023
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| The bouldery face right of the Swampton groove. I did not flash it, but the sunny, hot rock wasn't making it feel very secure. The single bolt right of the upper 5.9 hand crack is a questionable finish. Finishing up the crack makes more sense. | ||||||
| Swampton (5c) | Found this quite hard for the grade. The sidewalls are glassy and useless for smearing so you need to tackle the crack head-on. It's a bit flaring, too, which makes jamming a bit trickier and the pro harder to secure. Although this pitch looks good, I didn't like the way it climbed. |
8 Sep 2023
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| Found this quite hard for the grade. The sidewalls are glassy and useless for smearing so you need to tackle the crack head-on. It's a bit flaring, too, which makes jamming a bit trickier and the pro harder to secure. Although this pitch looks good, I didn't like the way it climbed. | ||||||
| Industrial Revolution (6b) | Two bolts worth of interesting face climbing left of the middle of Swampton. However, the traverse out of the crack is a bit exposed since a slip would send you for a nasty sideways fall. Might be better to approach from Chicken Sashimi. The two bolts on the upper, glassy prow are a complete mystery to me. I guess you could boulder up the right edge, but it seems super contrived (and hard). You can just step right into the top of Swampton... |
8 Sep 2023
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| Two bolts worth of interesting face climbing left of the middle of Swampton. However, the traverse out of the crack is a bit exposed since a slip would send you for a nasty sideways fall. Might be better to approach from Chicken Sashimi. The two bolts on the upper, glassy prow are a complete mystery to me. I guess you could boulder up the right edge, but it seems super contrived (and hard). You can just step right into the top of Swampton... | ||||||
| Salmonella (5c+) | A recommended finish to Chicken Sashimi. The left-hand finish is trivial - this finish adds some interesting face climbing. |
8 Sep 2023
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| A recommended finish to Chicken Sashimi. The left-hand finish is trivial - this finish adds some interesting face climbing. | ||||||
| Chicken Sashimi (5b) | Kinda' burly for the grade. The crack climbing steeper than it looked. The crux is in the first half and then it's over... |
8 Sep 2023
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| Kinda' burly for the grade. The crack climbing steeper than it looked. The crux is in the first half and then it's over... | ||||||
| Slabby Joe (6a) | Getting to and past the first bolt is the crux. Easier above, but not trivial getting past the final bolt near the bulbous arete. |
6 Sep 2023
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| Getting to and past the first bolt is the crux. Easier above, but not trivial getting past the final bolt near the bulbous arete. | ||||||
| Megalodong (6a) | Felt a bit harder than Slabby Joe. Getting over the upper bulge adds difficulty. |
6 Sep 2023
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| Felt a bit harder than Slabby Joe. Getting over the upper bulge adds difficulty. | ||||||
| OB (5b+) | "Over bolted". Not really; more like well-bolted. A tricky start leads to much easier face and slab climbing above. A very good moderate - should be popular. |
6 Sep 2023
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| "Over bolted". Not really; more like well-bolted. A tricky start leads to much easier face and slab climbing above. A very good moderate - should be popular. | ||||||
| Under Pressure (6a) | Dramatically easier than the route on the left. A bit of power smearing past the two bolts will get you to the top in no time. |
6 Sep 2023
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| Dramatically easier than the route on the left. A bit of power smearing past the two bolts will get you to the top in no time. | ||||||
| Naughty by Nature (6b) | Easy climbing along the flake rail leads to a stout, technical boulder problem at the transition. Could be reachy? Definitely had to put on my thinking cap to find a sequence. |
6 Sep 2023
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| Easy climbing along the flake rail leads to a stout, technical boulder problem at the transition. Could be reachy? Definitely had to put on my thinking cap to find a sequence. | ||||||
| Boys in the wood (6a) | Likely the best climb on the crag. Fun crack climbing in a corner leads to a bouldery bulge at the top. Not sure if this would be reachy for shorter climbers, but if it is it would feel harder. Used some body English to get over the lip. |
6 Sep 2023
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| Likely the best climb on the crag. Fun crack climbing in a corner leads to a bouldery bulge at the top. Not sure if this would be reachy for shorter climbers, but if it is it would feel harder. Used some body English to get over the lip. | ||||||
| Do it right the first time (5b) | A really nice, short moderate. It would be misleading to call it a slab; the wall is off-vertical and the route features small handholds with a bit of pulling. Hardest down low. |
6 Sep 2023
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| A really nice, short moderate. It would be misleading to call it a slab; the wall is off-vertical and the route features small handholds with a bit of pulling. Hardest down low. | ||||||
| Pushup city (6a+) | A tricky start leads to better features. Not really a slab climb... More like an off-vertical face climb with slabby tendencies. |
6 Sep 2023
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| A tricky start leads to better features. Not really a slab climb... More like an off-vertical face climb with slabby tendencies. | ||||||
| Territorial Dispute (6a) | A one-move wonder getting off the ground. Once at the first bolt, the climbing gets much easier. |
6 Sep 2023
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| A one-move wonder getting off the ground. Once at the first bolt, the climbing gets much easier. | ||||||
| Luminality (5b) | A nice little crack climb on the far left end of the crag. Short, but worthwhile. |
6 Sep 2023
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| A nice little crack climb on the far left end of the crag. Short, but worthwhile. | ||||||
| Chicken Sashimi (5b) |
4 Sep 2023
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| APR 15 (5c+) | On the short wall directly below the guardrail fence. Climbs the splitter crack on the right side. Tricky to protect, but safe if you have the right gear and know how to place it. Short, but rather sustained. High-quality crack climbing. |
4 Sep 2023
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| On the short wall directly below the guardrail fence. Climbs the splitter crack on the right side. Tricky to protect, but safe if you have the right gear and know how to place it. Short, but rather sustained. High-quality crack climbing. |
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