| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
| ||||||
| Fairy Ring (4c) | Can be surprising for the grade. / Balayer: Sansrine |
20 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Can be surprising for the grade. / Balayer: Sansrine | ||||||
| Fairy Ring (4c) |
20 Sep 2023
| |||||
| Rose of Sharon (6a) | Felt about the same grade as Beached Whale, so I'm suggesting 10b for both. The topo says to bring a small cam, but couldn't find an obvious placement. Tricky passing the final bolt to get to the top. |
14 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Felt about the same grade as Beached Whale, so I'm suggesting 10b for both. The topo says to bring a small cam, but couldn't find an obvious placement. Tricky passing the final bolt to get to the top. | ||||||
| Waning Gibbous (6b) | Excellent thin face climbing along the arete feature. Bolts were on the left, but I climbed mainly on the right. Steeper than your average Smoke Bluffs face route. |
14 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Excellent thin face climbing along the arete feature. Bolts were on the left, but I climbed mainly on the right. Steeper than your average Smoke Bluffs face route. | ||||||
| The Squeakers (5a) | Very easy crack climbing in the low-angle groove leads to a short yet fun slab at the top. |
14 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Very easy crack climbing in the low-angle groove leads to a short yet fun slab at the top. | ||||||
| Beached Whale (6a) | Felt a little soft for 10c. Thought it could use one more bolt above the first, since there is no pro until you reach over the top. Regardless, a fun climb with a cool pocket at the start. |
14 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Felt a little soft for 10c. Thought it could use one more bolt above the first, since there is no pro until you reach over the top. Regardless, a fun climb with a cool pocket at the start. | ||||||
| The Leading Edge (6b+) | Super thin slab past the first two bolts - felt harder than Where's Roxie? and Fatty Bolger. Above, the climbing is slightly easier, but quite runout. If this was bolted today, there'd be more bolts, for sure. Watch out for the steep finish! |
14 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Super thin slab past the first two bolts - felt harder than Where's Roxie? and Fatty Bolger. Above, the climbing is slightly easier, but quite runout. If this was bolted today, there'd be more bolts, for sure. Watch out for the steep finish! | ||||||
| Fatty Bolger (6b+) | The crag's namesake route and an old classic. Thin slab at the bottom (stick clip!) to engaging slab climbing above and a fat crack. The upper part utilizes dual vertical seams and provides a tough yet interesting finish. |
14 Sep 2023
| ||||
| The crag's namesake route and an old classic. Thin slab at the bottom (stick clip!) to engaging slab climbing above and a fat crack. The upper part utilizes dual vertical seams and provides a tough yet interesting finish. | ||||||
| Where's Roxie? (6b+) | A tough start of thin, steep slab moves leads to a cool groove/corner. It's not over until it's over... |
14 Sep 2023
| ||||
| A tough start of thin, steep slab moves leads to a cool groove/corner. It's not over until it's over... | ||||||
| Rumours (5c+) | Nice crack climbing to a tricky, bolt-protected bulge at the top. Good quality throughout. |
14 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Nice crack climbing to a tricky, bolt-protected bulge at the top. Good quality throughout. | ||||||
| This (6c) | The extension above Gang of Foreplay. Thought the slab would be easy, but it turned out to be the crux - very thin at times. The upper section, which is steeper, had better holds and features. |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| The extension above Gang of Foreplay. Thought the slab would be easy, but it turned out to be the crux - very thin at times. The upper section, which is steeper, had better holds and features. | ||||||
| Gang of Foreplay (6a) | A short but quality crack. I stemmed through the crux, which may have made it a bit easier than the given grade? Good climbing regardless. |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| A short but quality crack. I stemmed through the crux, which may have made it a bit easier than the given grade? Good climbing regardless. | ||||||
| Fissureman's Friend (5b) | Can't believe I'd never done this before. A bit of burly jamming off the ground leads to quality face and crack climbing to the top with a slight sting in the tail. The only downside to this climb is the crack is intermittent so you can't sew it up. Otherwise I'd highly recommend it to 5.8 climbers. |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Can't believe I'd never done this before. A bit of burly jamming off the ground leads to quality face and crack climbing to the top with a slight sting in the tail. The only downside to this climb is the crack is intermittent so you can't sew it up. Otherwise I'd highly recommend it to 5.8 climbers. | ||||||
| Peder 5.7 (5b) | This is the groove just right of Ridin' with Biden. It's super easy to a very short steepening near the top. |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| This is the groove just right of Ridin' with Biden. It's super easy to a very short steepening near the top. | ||||||
| Peder 10d (6b) | The 10+ route on the short wall right of Ridin' with Biden. A diagonal crack leads to a short face crux past a bolt. Nothing to write home about. Seemed much easier than 10d to me, but maybe I reached through the upper crux? |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| The 10+ route on the short wall right of Ridin' with Biden. A diagonal crack leads to a short face crux past a bolt. Nothing to write home about. Seemed much easier than 10d to me, but maybe I reached through the upper crux? | ||||||
| Ridin with Biden (5c) | A bit steeper than the other climbs at the crag. A nice mix of fingerlocks and handjams with good pro. Fairly burly for the grade. The name should be spelled with an apostrophe... |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| A bit steeper than the other climbs at the crag. A nice mix of fingerlocks and handjams with good pro. Fairly burly for the grade. The name should be spelled with an apostrophe... | ||||||
| Sole Proprietorship (6c) | Probably did this 25 years ago, but can't really remember. Regardless, a good face climb that had a harder exit into the crack than I was expecting. Bring pro for the upper half. |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| Probably did this 25 years ago, but can't really remember. Regardless, a good face climb that had a harder exit into the crack than I was expecting. Bring pro for the upper half. | ||||||
| Crystal Ball (6a+) | I probably did this 25 years ago, but can't really remember. Regardless, it's a nice finger crack that protects well. Probably a bit easier than The Zip. |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| I probably did this 25 years ago, but can't really remember. Regardless, it's a nice finger crack that protects well. Probably a bit easier than The Zip. | ||||||
| Long 5.4 (4c) | The long crack and face climb at the far right side of Jug Slab on Fatty Bolger. Very easy, but lacking decent pro in the middle. Might not be the best lead for a complete novice. |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| The long crack and face climb at the far right side of Jug Slab on Fatty Bolger. Very easy, but lacking decent pro in the middle. Might not be the best lead for a complete novice. | ||||||
| Long 5.8 (5b+) | This is the long, bolted slab on the right side of Jug Slab at Fatty Bolger. I don't know anything about it and the grade is a guess. Starts down at road level and climbs along the right edge of the slab. Decent quality. Difficulty seems to depend on how you do the start - using the groove on the left is easier. |
10 Sep 2023
| ||||
| This is the long, bolted slab on the right side of Jug Slab at Fatty Bolger. I don't know anything about it and the grade is a guess. Starts down at road level and climbs along the right edge of the slab. Decent quality. Difficulty seems to depend on how you do the start - using the groove on the left is easier. |
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