Vertical-Life
Ena
176
ASCENTS
1 %
OS RATE
91
BOULDERS IN DB
176
ASCENTS
1 %
OS RATE
91
BOULDERS IN DB
| Name | Style | Route | Comment | Properties | Date | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Date
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| Ekidona (7A+) |
10 Oct 2022
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| Diamond (7A+) | My most impressive flash so far I think. First of all a Shodan in Japan and in Ena of all places, put up by the legend Dai Koyamada himself. Second, a highball (around 6 - 7 meters high) with non-trivial moves high up right before the topout. Seeing Yumiko-san cruise the boulder before me helped a lot in pulling this off as well! The boulder starts with a tricky traverse on almost non-existent feet and small crimps with the crux being a long lock off from a crimp rail to another small crimp. After that one has to follow an obvious crack with a couple of tricky, but not too hard moves until jugs appear again at two-thirds along the way. From those jugs there is one more tricky move involving a high right foot into a jug undercling and a glorious easy finish. Original name and grade: ダイアモンド 初段 Video |
10 Apr 2022
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| My most impressive flash so far I think. First of all a Shodan in Japan and in Ena of all places, put up by the legend Dai Koyamada himself. Second, a highball (around 6 - 7 meters high) with non-trivial moves high up right before the topout. Seeing Yumiko-san cruise the boulder before me helped a lot in pulling this off as well! The boulder starts with a tricky traverse on almost non-existent feet and small crimps with the crux being a long lock off from a crimp rail to another small crimp. After that one has to follow an obvious crack with a couple of tricky, but not too hard moves until jugs appear again at two-thirds along the way. From those jugs there is one more tricky move involving a high right foot into a jug undercling and a glorious easy finish. Original name and grade: ダイアモンド 初段
Video | ||||||
| Ekidona (7A+) | Absolutely should have flashed this one! However, a slight misjudgment of my wingspan and not taking enough time to look for other solutions the first time cost me the flash. Second go was basically a walk in the park. The boulder starts with a very small sidepull for the left hand a big slopey crimp for the right hand and then follows the shallow crack to the right that opens up at certain points for three pockets that can be locked off. The crux is getting the pockets with the correct hands and then moving into the high, but juggy finish. Quite an easy Shodan for my size. Plus being able to do finger locks helps a lot on this boulder. Original name and grade: エキドナ 初段 Video |
10 Apr 2022
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| Absolutely should have flashed this one! However, a slight misjudgment of my wingspan and not taking enough time to look for other solutions the first time cost me the flash. Second go was basically a walk in the park. The boulder starts with a very small sidepull for the left hand a big slopey crimp for the right hand and then follows the shallow crack to the right that opens up at certain points for three pockets that can be locked off. The crux is getting the pockets with the correct hands and then moving into the high, but juggy finish. Quite an easy Shodan for my size. Plus being able to do finger locks helps a lot on this boulder. Original name and grade: エキドナ 初段
Video | ||||||
| Enkai (7A) | Really happy about that flash! In particular, considering that this boulder does not only have a cruxy start but also a cruxy finish that is high up with not the best landing. Starts off with some tricky moves off of small crimps and sidepulls that lead into a juggy rail that traverses to the right. At the end of the rail the jugs suddenly end and a tricky mantle on small crimps and slopers make for an exciting finish. Original name and grade: エンカイ 1級 Video |
9 Apr 2022
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| Really happy about that flash! In particular, considering that this boulder does not only have a cruxy start but also a cruxy finish that is high up with not the best landing. Starts off with some tricky moves off of small crimps and sidepulls that lead into a juggy rail that traverses to the right. At the end of the rail the jugs suddenly end and a tricky mantle on small crimps and slopers make for an exciting finish. Original name and grade: エンカイ 1級
Video | ||||||
| Koigimo (6A+) | Nice warm-up. Original name and grade: 鯉肝（こいぎも）3級 Video |
9 Apr 2022
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| Nice warm-up. Original name and grade: 鯉肝（こいぎも）3級
Video | ||||||
| Utsushiyo (8B+) |
1 Nov 2021
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| Ankokumaru (8B) |
4 May 2021
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| bangaran (8B) |
4 May 2021
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| Ghoul (7C) |
3 May 2021
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| ogle (8B+) |
3 May 2021
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| Tokoyo (8B+) |
3 Apr 2021
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| Diamond (7A+) |
15 Mar 2021
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| Jenga (7A+) |
14 Mar 2021
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| Koutei Penguing (7A+) |
14 Mar 2021
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| Kashabo (7C) |
1 Mar 2021
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| Ekidona (7B) |
1 Mar 2021
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| Tokoyo (8B+) |
20 Oct 2020
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| Tokoyo (8B+) |
7 Oct 2020
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| Emotion (8B+) |
6 Oct 2020
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| Utsushiyo (8B+) |
5 Oct 2020
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