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Vblog #1 from Ondra's America trip  Facebook
 

 
 
A maze of death 8A+ by Katie Lamb  (2) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureKatie "Lamb" Ledecky has done her third 8A+, A maze of death in Bishop which just took her three sessions. "Very technical movement on bad feet. The hardest part is figuring out the foot beta."

The 21 year old has been climbing since she was 8 years old and being a teenager she did win the nationals a few times. Her next goal is to do Mandala.

 
 
Ondra's Just Do It 8c+ onsight story  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has described his onsight of Just Do It 8c+ at Smith Rocks with a great picture of Bernardo Gimenez. Good news is that they also got it on video.

"It was freaking windy, but I was hoping that down at the base it would be less windy than up in the pass from where it is really nice to check the route. I was trying to convince myself by seeing the no quickdraws moving in the lower bit (well, those quickdraws are in vertical wall so it is clear they were not moving so much). At base it was too obvious that it was freaking windy. But I just set off." Full story at his Insta.

 
 
Classified 9a by David Firnenburg  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDavid Firnenburg, #3 in the Combined World Championship in 2016, has done Classified 9a in Frankenjura. Pic from his Insta from last month when he did another 9a.

"Riding the sending wave after winning lead nationals. Feeling fit after Southern France and some training back in the gym. Nice fingery route on pockets and crimps with dynamic move to saving hold in the end. 9a in my opinion. Let's keep the ball rolling..."

 
 
Adam Ondra onsights Just Do It 8c+  (8) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra reports on Insta that he has onsighted the iconic Just Do it 8c+ at Smith Rocks. It was bolted in 1989 by Alan Watts and JB Tribout did the FA in 1992. The 40m line with 18 bolts starts almost vertical with technical climbing on whitish rock. The second half on near to purple rock is slightly overhanging with the crux at the top where many have taken 15 meters falls.

Adam has previously onsighted three 9a's, 19 8c+' and 61 8c's. No other climber has onsighted more than a dozen 8c and harder.

 
 
Johnny Dawes (54) back to 8b+  (5) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBritish legend Johnny Dawes is back on the game after a long process of efforts. A year ago he did Abuela Carmen 8a in La Pedriza, Spain. That day he tried on a top rope Inuït 8b+ just for fun and fixed it as a goal for the next season. The last week he tried first to check the moves and sent it on his second go. More info on his Insta. ©Talo Martin

Known as the developer of the dynamic climbing, in 1985 he bolted Meltdown 9a slab. In 1986 he fell in the last bolt due to a hold broke in the last hard moves (video of 1986 trying the route with Jerry Moffat). Meltdown was FA'd by James McHaffie in 2012 and recently repeated by Ignacio Mulero in 2018.

 
 
Chromosome X 9a by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (13)  (7) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIllya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 8c when he was 11 years old, has done his first 9a, Chromosome X in Charmey. "Perfect route. My beta is totally different from Pirmins."

Adam Ondra was 13 years, nine months and six days when he did his first 9a. Illya was five days younger, setting a new world record. Ashima Shiraishi did her first 9a two weeks before she turned 14. More info to come!

 
 
Assassin 9a #106 by Adam Ondra  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAdam Ondra has done Drew Ruana's Assassin 9a in Smith Rocks which he did second go. "2nd ascent, crazy route with different sections and good rests in between." (c) Martin Kanurek

In total total, the 25 year old has now recorded 172 routes 9a to 9c. Interesting insights on his Insta from Smith Rocks. "I love visiting new climbing places and I have been looking forward to this place so much! It is basically birthplace of America's sport climbing." He also met and give credits to Alan Watts, the pioneer of sport climbing in USA who in the early days got a lot of criticism." Video - Pioneering Smith Rocks.

 
 
Corrida 8c by Jessica Pilz  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJessica Pilz, the world Lead Champion, has had some nice days in Osp/Misja Pec where she has onsighted Ptičja perspektiva 8a+ and on her second go she did Corrida 8c. In the 8a ranking game, the 21 year old is #3.

Three years ago she did her first 8c+ and based on her great progress the last year, it will be interesting to see how far she can push it this winter before going full into the Olympic mode in 2019. More info to come.

 
 
Sharma Mont-Rebei Summer 2018  Facebook
 

 
 
Meltdown 8c+ trad by Carlo Traversi  (3) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlo Traversi has done the second ascent of Beth Rodden's Meltdown 8c+ in Yosemite which since 2008 have been seen as possibly the hardest trad route in the world.

"This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose."

Carlo's background is bouldering where he during two years until 2013 did five 8C's. Then in 2015 he did two 9a's and on his Insta he then reported he was close doing Meltdown after three years of sporadic effort.

 
 
Viaje astral 9a FA by Jonathan Guadalcázar  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJonathan Guadalcázar has done his third 9a during the last 12 months, Viaje astral in Tarbena. Until 2016, the 25 year old had done just one 8c+ but during the last two years he has done five.

"40m route very intense. First 20m 8c+ on small crimps without rests and after a water-polished laybacking crack ending on very small crimps."

 
 
Working Class 9a by Moritz Perwitzschky (19)  Facebook
 

Moritz Perwitzschky has done his first 9a, Working class in Frankenjura, which he marked as chipped. "Lot of fixed holds, went down quick, M. Bock suggested 9a, I can't really tell, haven't tried much in that grade."

During the last month, the 19 year old has done six routes 8C and harder and he is #4 in the Combined ranking game.

 
 
El Dorado 9a FA by Carlos Ruano (38)  (13) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureCarlos Ruano has made the FA of El Dorado 9a in La Pedriza, Spain. The 38 years old has previously done one 9a and several boulders up to 8B+. ©Talo Martin

"The start of the route is a 8A+/B boulder, then follows a 7C+ and huge 7C dyno to catch the lip and there's no rest in its 12 meters. Despite the crux is in the bottom part I fell 5 times in the last hard move. "

 
 
Schweinebaumeln 9a by Thomas O'Halloran  (1) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureThomas O'Halloran has done the first repeat of Alex Megos Schweinebaumeln 9a in Blue Mountains. The picture is from this summer walking up to Céüse and here is a nice video of him doing Mister Hyde 8c+ up there.

"Over the past few years I have spent a lot of days on it, but always in the middle of summer in bad conditions. I’d just use it as a training route while everything else was out of season. It was a good training route to keep fit. I did it on the 4th day of attempts this season. It’s very satisfying to do. I’m not feeling especially fit or strong at the moment and it didn’t feel like it took a lot out of me. So it’s great to know I have quite a bit more room to improve!"

 
 
Circo Ibérico 9a+ FA by Jorge Diaz-Rullo (19)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureJorge Diaz-Rullo has done his third 9a+ through the FA of Circo Ibérico in Cuenca. "Route on the lower range of 9a+, harder than the others 9a's in Cuenca anyway. Few climbers like Pablo Barbero tried it before and once I tried it I was super psyched to keep trying it". In the ranking game, the 19 year old spanish is #5. ©Javipec

 
 
Atomic Playboy 8A+ trav (8A) By Oriane Bertone (13)  (2) Facebook
 

Oriane Bertone has done the Fontainebleau traverse Atomic Playboy 8A+. "Fantastic trav with a boulder grade in the 7C+ section." The 13 year old has done more than 20 Boulders 8A and harder including Golden Shadow 8B (+) when she was 12 years old.

 
 
Action Directe 9a by Stefan Scarperi  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureStefan Scarperi has done the 25th ascent of Wolfgang Gullich’s classic from 1991, Action Directe in Frankenjura after six days of working it during the last two years. In total the Italian has done four 9a’s out of which two the last two weeks. In 2015 he was #3 in the Euro Championship.

It is just amazing and Wolfgang did it the same year when I was born. I think this is my hardest although Biologico took me a lot of effort.”

 
 
Midas 8c+ FA by Moritz Welt (17)  Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureMoritz Welt, who the last two months have done two 9a's, have done the FA of Midas 8c+ in Frankenjura. The 17-year-old is #2 in the Combined ranking game after Daniel Woods.

"New line starting with the first two bolts of Triebwerke and ending in the upper part of Fürther Freiheit. Pretty much my style with technical moves on tiny holds, hard to grade though... pumpy 8a into 8A+ boulder into another pumpy 7c/+ with a few medium rests in between. Loved to try it!"

 
 
Box Therapy 4th 8C+ FA by Daniel Woods  (12) Facebook
 

Click to Enlarge PictureDaniel Woods reports on Insta, with many great pics by James Lucas, that he has done the FA of his 4th 8C+, Box Therapy in RMNP up at 3 169 m elevation. The 10.5 km hike took 2 - 3 hours depending how much snow it was and he did it seven days.

As can be seen on the picture, there were plenty of snow and projecting also involved rapping in and shoveling away snow and ice on the top out. Some of the days he worked it it was 1 degree and windy conditions. "18 moves out a 50 degree roof, micro holds that make your pulleys feel like they are gonna pop after every attempt." More on Climbing.

The 29 year old has been one of the leading boulderers since he was 16 years old and in practice, he has the most impressive bouldering tick list out there. In 2010, he won the Bouldering WC in Vail and this year he did his first 9b.

 
Bram Honorez

willenberg dach 8A, chi
ronico
 
Heiko Queitsch

1st. ascent "Streetfigh
ter" fb 7b+ (left exit
to Streetworker fb 7c)
(Ticino/Chironico) 2018
 
Kat Gentry

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Markus Adamaszek

El pan canario, Fb 7a b
loc, Albarracín
 
Maria Amzaroiu (f)

GEYIKBAYIRI Mevlana - B
oys are back in town
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - the groov
e 7c+
 
Gus Carter

Planet of the Apes V7/7
A+
 
Katrin Gründler

roof warrior
 
Mike Gabl

Sami in "Les aneaux de
saturne" 7b / Quinson /
France
 
Leo Skinner

rich skinner - sansa 7c
 
Heiko Queitsch

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Lucija Tarkuš

Divja Brina (8b), Koteč
nik
 
Gus Carter

Ninja Gaeshi Sit, V8, M
itake, Japan
 
Incze Ábel

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Leo Skinner

leo skinner - corridors
of power 7c+
 
Paolini Yohann

Alpina rocket 8a, La Ma
ladière
 
Jamie Leland

Public Enemy 7c+, Super
stition Mountains
 
Nicholas Allan

Please add info of the
climb, your ascent and
the area
 
Search & Add Ascents
Email:
 
Editorial by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
Talk to climbers with bad access behavior  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureHere is the 12 year old 8a Access flyers with advices including some specific instructions from The Access Fund in regards Human Waste.

As the climbing community is growing bigger, the number of access problems are increasing and although almost everyone behave respectful, it just takes some misbehaving to irritate the landowners etc. Spreading information and creating awareness are important but what is crucial is to actually talk directly to the climbers misbehaving. One way of making this easier, is to post signs at the crags meaning we only have to refer to something "official" while talking to the climbers with bad access behavior.
 
Access/Parking problems in Osp/Misja Pec  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureOsp/Misja Pec in Slovenia is #17 in the 8a crag data base with 25 871 ascents. During many years there have been access issues also related to parking although a new bigger was opened.

"Since the day it was opened we are witnessing illegal camping and disrespectful behavior from some members of our climbing tribe."

More info on the specific rules etc to follow on their website as well on Insta.
 
8.57 by Miho Nonaka in Speed  (2) Facebook
Miho Nonaka, who won the Bouldering World Cup in 2018, set a new Speed PB in the Asian Championship at 8.57. As a matter of a fact, three times she did go below nine seconds which can be compared to Janja Garnbet and Akiyo Noguchi who has never gone under 10 seconds in an IFSC event. Among the male, Keita Dohi was fastest at 7.18.

Winners of the Combined event were Meichi Narasaki and Akiyo Noguchi. Interesting was also that Bouldering specialist Kokoro Fujii won in Lead.
 
Great progress for Asia  (2) Facebook
Over the years, Japan has become the most successful nation in the Lead and Boulder World Cup. In the Combined World Cup 2018, Japan male had four in Top-6 and the female three in Top-7. In male Bouldering, ten out of the Top-21 in the overall WC are from Japan.

Based on the Asian Championship, where as an example Japan did only get four male in Top-9, we can see that also other neighboring are coming strong. In the Combined YuFei Pan (18) from China was #3. It just might be that Asians will dominate in the future. South Korea has been one of the best countries in the world for a while but now also the youngsters from China and Hong Kong is knocking at the door. In a few years, it just might be that also these countries will advance high up in the rankings.

National Team Ranking Lead + Boulder in 2019
1. Japan 3 618
2. Slovenia 2 817
3. France 2 263
4. Austria 1 805
5. South Korea 1 313
Complete results
 
Save the climbing area "Zillergrund Wald"  (1) Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureThe bouldering area "Zillergrund Wald" in Tirol, Austria, is at risk! A nearby quarry site is planned to be expanded, threatening to destroy part of the popular climbing area. Local climbers have now started an online petition, trying to prevent this from happening. The granite boulders in Zillergrund are a unique climbing area. Through the petition, the initiators hope to be able to preserve this valuable area, its nature and beauty.
Here you can support the cause with your signature.

Moreover, in order to protest against the extension of the quarry, the initiators are organizing a meeting in the town of Brandberg on November 13th at 8:45am. Climbers, friends and supporters are welcome to join.
 
Penrose Step 8B+ and more by Alex Puccio  Facebook
 
Top-32 in Combined 2019 might have chances for the Olympics  Facebook
The 2019 competition season will finish with the Olympic Qualifying event in Toulouse 28/11 to 1/11 where the Top-20 in the Combined ranking will participate for six spots, excluding the seven that qualified during the World Championship in August in Japan. In practice this could mean that among the male, that even being ranked #32 you might be selected for the qualifying event as Japan could have eight in Top-32. In theory, if countries like Italy and Germany will fill their country quota in the World Championship, it might be good enough to be Top-35.

This means that the chances for the Speed specialists to compete in Toulouse is quite high. As their maximum score in the qualifying event is 1 * 20 * 20 = 400, this might be good enough for being Top-6 and to get a ticket for Tokyo.

It should be mentioned that excluding the Top-7 in the World Championship from participating in Toulouse could be consider not fair. In fact, Toulouse is the only event where you can "train" and prepare on the identical format as in Tokyo 2020. Detailed info how to qualify.
 
Sharma competes at La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm  (3) Facebook
In 1996, being 15 years old, Chris Sharma was #2 in the World Lead Championship and the next year he won his first World Cup he entered. In 2001, he won the Bouldering WC in Munich.

During the La Sportiva Legends in Stockholm 24/11, Sharma will compete against some of the very boulderers in the world; Jernej Kruder, Jongwon Chon, Alex Megos, Rei Sugimoto and Alexey Rubtsov. If he not ends last, it must be considered sensational. What if this is a test for going for the Olympics 2020? IFSC will through a Tripartite Commission invite one male and female that have not made it through the qualification competitions.
 
Free Personalized Gym Workouts from Vertical-Life  Facebook
Click to Enlarge PictureWorkouts are now live in the Vertical-Life Climbing App! Spice up your gym sessions with free, customized, workouts. Lead and bouldering workouts are single-day training plans, designed by pro climbing coach Ingo Filzwieser.

Get started with 3 easy steps:
1. Choose your gym
2. Set a goal
3. Start Training

Download the App and start your free workout
 
Provisional WC Calendar 2019  (3) Facebook
IFSC has published the provisional Calendar for 2019 including 6 events in all three disciplines.

05/04 Meiringen SUI Boulder
13/04 Moscow RUS Boulder/Speed
27/04 Chonqing CHN Boulder/Speed
04/05 Wujinang CHN Boulder/Speed
18/05 Munich GER Boulder
07/06 Vail USA Boulder

05/07 Villars FRA Lead/Speed
11/07 Chamonix FRA Lead/Speed
19/07 Briancon FRA Lead
20/08 Tokyo JPN Combined World Championship
28/09 Kranj SLO Lead
19/10 Xiamen CHN Lead/Speed
26/10 Inzai JPN Lead
28/11 Toulouse FRA Olympic Qualification


As the most important event for the ones going for Tokyo 2020 are the world Championship and the Olympic qualification event, most probably, most will cherry pick which comps to focus at. It is not wise to travel around the globe almost non-stop for seven months without resting prior to the qualification in Toulouse.

From a logistic and cost point of view; skipping Vail, Xiamen and Inzai will make everything much easier at least for the Europeans. For the non-Europeans avoiding Kranj and Munich will make life easier.

On the other hand, as many of the best probably will not do all WCs, it is a golden opportunity to focus on the World Cup in one discipline giving low priority for the Olympics.

The twist is also that the Top-7 in the World Championship in Tokyo in August will qualify for the 2020. Most probably, these qualifiers will limit their competing during the autumn opening up for better results for the lower ranked.
 

Stephan Schibli
Rocklands

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