12 October 2018

Buenos Aires route setting change the conditions

The Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires was a great show although different when it comes to topping frequency in comparison to WCH in Innsbruck. This certainly made it more fun to watch for the general public but some climbers think Lead should be about difficulty and not Speed. In general, I think the Speed element in Lead could be nice for the semifinal which otherwise sometimes can be more boring. However, in any case split times are crucial to increase excitement to understand who is climbing faster 3/4 up the route. Further more, having more than two guys topping out the final must be considered a route setting mistake. IFSC should make a statement how they want the route setting in order to inform if the Olympic candidates should also start training sprint up Lead routes below three minutes. When it comes to bouldering, more tops are great like in Buenos Aires. On the other hand, the boulders seemed to involve less moves. Was the walls lower and less steep than normal? Possibly the route setter could lower the starting position with half a meter so there can be more action upwards to the top. And once again, two zones will force the route setters to make the boulders more interesting which both the climbers and the spectators will benefit from.
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Will Bosi claims the first repeat of Burden of Dreams (9A)

William Bosi has done the coveted second ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor, Finland, confirming the 9A grade. It was put up as the …

Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP. Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew Ruana and Sean B…

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …