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Projects (Blog 7)
OffLine Mike Grisdale
  2010-03-22 00:47:54    

It's March - early in the climbing season here in Canada. I'm excited. I recently made a list of all the climbs that I want to do this year. My original goal for this year was to lead a 5.12 or two however I recently started a redpoint project called Gravity Boy 5.11d and I'm pretty close to sending it. So, I started thinking my goal was too low for this whole summer. My goal now is to do a bunch of 5.12s and at least one 5.13a. Here is a list of all the routes I want to do (as of right now) this year:

   Route                Grade                   Craig

1. Gravity Boy    5.11d                     White Buddha

2. Dharmakaya   5.12b                     White Buddha

3. Wicked Gravity   5.11a                  Lake Louise

4. Masterbretter      5.11b                  Heart Creek   

5. Beat Farmer         5.12a                  Heart Creek

6. Paint it Black       5.11a                  Heart Creek

7. Heart of Darkness 5.11b               Heart Creek

8. Hecubus               5.13a               Heart Creek

9. Sisyphus Summits 5.10d               Ha Ling Peak

10. Blank of the map   5.11a            Barrier Mountain

11. Pull Fat Boy Pull   5.11c              Barrier Mountain

So that is basically my current to do list. I was at White Buddha yesterday with my friend Robin. I was so close to sending Gravity Boy.... it was frustrating. I made it to the final bolt where there is a bit of a rest position. I just couldn't get enough rest out of it - my fuel tank was on empty and I just couldn't quite finish. After hanging on the rope for 5 min I cruised through the final section no problem. :( It's frustrating to be so close and then just be to tired to finish it off - next time I'll get it. I'll definitely be doing some endurance training in the near future.


Blog by: Mike Grisdale
OffLine Mark Stirling
  2010-04-09 01:37:39    
Nice tick list.  You should really add Dance Me Outside 12a at Grassi Lakes if you haven't tried it.  One of the best 12a's in the valley.  I would also try Hermetically Sealed 12a at Prairie Creek.  Final suggestion would be do skip Hecubus and try either Con Dila, Silver Rocket or A67 (all 13a) at Prairie instead.  If you're set on something at Heart switch to Salty 13a instead.  Much more quality route.  Good luck on the send.  Climb safe, climb hard.
OffLine Mike Grisdale
  2010-04-20 23:28:06    
Thanks for the advice man! Ya, I just crossed Gravity Boy off the list so I'm motivated to really get going on some of these. I would add Dance Me Outside to list actually cause it looks cool but the book says I won't be able to clean the draws on the way down and I don't have any climbing buddies that climb at that level. Any other recomendations at Grassi?. I have looked at a bunch of those heart creek routes at the Bayon. I like Heart cause it's close to calgary and my friends really like it there. Most of my friends are 5.10 climbers so I don't think they'd have fun at Prairie. The only 2 reasons I picked Hecubus were a) I saw this guy climb it in a youtube video and thought to myself... I could do that. b) I like the pit of ultimate darkness from kids in the hall (where the name hecubus comes from). When I get to the wall and look at them this year I could very well change my mind. I definitely check Salty out.